First taste: Chapoutier single vineyard wines 2017

Michel Chapoutier presented the 2017 vintage of his top single vineyard wines in central London, including some high quality samples from a Rhône growing season described by Chapoutier himself as ‘the seven plagues of Egypt’. See this report, with tasting notes, on the Rhône wines present, available exclusively to Premium members.

For over 15 years, Michel Chapoutier has come to London in the spring to host an exclusive tasting of the new vintage of his top single vineyard wines, known as the Sélections Parcellaires.

Chapoutier showcased his 2017s at the Tate Modern art gallery on a sunny 17 April. He presented wines from Alsace, Roussillon and Australia, but, as always, the Rhône stole the show.

Chapoutier described the extremely challenging Rhône growing season as ‘the seven plagues of Egypt’.

Firstly, after an early start to the growing season, parts of the Rhône, particularly in the South, were hit by frost.

Scroll down to see Matt Walls’ exclusive tasting notes and scores

‘The second plague was coulure – dramatic coulure,’ said Chapoutier. This is the failure of grape clusters to form properly after flowering, which devastated yields.

‘The third was the worst – drought… Then very quick maturity due to such low yields.’

The combination of these factors resulted in a very small crop – according to Chapoutier the smallest since 1945 – which was picked relatively early in fine weather.

Prices are likely to be marginally higher than the 2016s.

Quality, however, is high, sometimes outstanding; it’s an intensely concentrated vintage, naturally high in extract, that is likely to be very long-lived.

Chapoutier compares it to the excellent 1991. The standout appellation was Hermitage, particularly his red ‘Le Pavillon’, white ‘de l’Orée’ and both colours of ‘L’Ermite’.

If his Sélections Parcellaires are indicative of the overall style of the vintage, then 2017 is likely to favour the Northern Rhône over the Southern Rhône, and reds over whites – but a broader tasting of different producers in October for Decanter Premium members will deliver a more complete picture.

Top wines from Chapoutier’s single vineyard wines 2017:

• Jane Anson’s full Bordeaux 2017 overview and en primeur tasting notes

• Best Rhône 2016 wines: The top scorers – by Matt Walls