Château d’Yquem 2019 vintage release alongside new initiative

On 22 March 2022, the 2019 vintage of Château d’Yquem will be released. This is a later launch than normal, following Pierre Lurton’s announcement last September that the new release would be held back in order to launch LMVH’s new ‘Lighthouse’ project.

At a tasting in London on 9 February 2022, cellarmaster Sandrine Garbay and LVMH’s sales and marketing director, Mathieu Jullien, introduced the new concept, the 2019 vintage, and a range of older vintages for comparison.

Scroll down to see tasting notes and scores for Château d’Yquem 2019 plus four older vintages

Making Yquem accessible

The Lighthouse project is yet another initiative attempting to solve the age-old conundrum of how to encourage wine lovers to drink more sweet wine.

The quality of the finest Sauternes, Tokaji or Trockenbeerenauslese is not in doubt, neither is the appeal of the wines, once tasted. The issue is when and how often consumers find the right occasion to open a bottle and discover the nectar within.

LMVH’s new approach is based on the premise that every wine consumer should have the opportunity to taste Yquem once in their lifetime.

The thinking is that youthful Yquem has a hugely appealing charm with sweet, ripe fruit expressed in its most vivid way, so the best time to introduce consumers is when the wine is at its freshest. This approach may not appeal to some sweet wine purists, but the allure of the 2019 vintage was nonetheless very evident at the tasting.

This Lighthouse programme sees Yquem being served by the glass at top restaurants and venues around the world. So far these include Caprice at the Four Seasons Hotel in Hong Kong, Cipriani in Venice, and Spago in Beverly Hills. Manoir aux Quat’Saisons, Annabel’s, Portland and NoMad are taking part the UK.

Sommeliers are encouraging diners to sample the wine either before or during their meal, rather than at the end. Costing £40-£70 a glass, it will be interesting to see how the initiative pans out.

A change in direction

What was clear from the tasting is that Yquem remains at the pinnacle of the finest sweet wines in the world. Sandrine Garbay, who first joined Yquem as a quality controller in 1994, introduced the 2019, along with the 2017 and its dry sibling Y d’Yquem, before moving on to Yquem 2007, 1999 and 1989.

Garbay emphasised how Yquem has gradually changed from the Alexandre de Lur Saluces days, with maturation in wood reduced from three years in 1989 to just two in 2017 and 2019.

‘Yquem is now more focused on preservation of fruit intensity, making the wine more open when young,’ she said.

The estate has stepped up its drive towards organic viticulture, with the entire estate operating under organic principles from 2020.

Verdict

The 2019 Yquem is hugely impressive and a joy to drink. I have no doubt that any consumer tasting the young wine will remember it, but it remains to be seen whether the Lighthouse approach delivers the benefits anticipated.

In some ways, it seems a shame not to be able to see how Yquem evolves and changes over the decades.

The 2007 vintage was a stunning example of Sauternes at the top of its game, while 1999 showed how good Yquem can be even in a difficult vintage.

1989 provided an insight into a previous era of wine production, yet excited with mellow, mature flavours, while still having the energy to age for another two decades.

See tasting notes and scores for Château d’Yquem 2019 plus four older vintages:

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