Chianti Classico 2013 & 2014 top tiers: Panel tasting results

New legislation in 2014 introduced a Gran Selezione tier above Riserva. So how did these top levels fare in two contrasting vintages? See this report on 165 wines tasted by our three-strong expert panel, with an introduction by Susan Hulme MW...

• 165 wines tasted with seven rated Outstanding

• The panel tasters were: Andrea Briccarello, Susan Hulme MW and Andrew Jefford

Despite its Sangiovese pedigree, Chianti Classico DOCG is an undervalued appellation compared to its famous Tuscan neighbours Brunello di Montalcino and Vino Nobile di Montepulciano. Yet its best wines fully deserve to rank alongside their prestigious counterparts.

The introduction in 2014 of the new Gran Selezione quality classification, above Chianti Classico Riserva, was in part an attempt to redress the balance. Up to this point, Riservas were at the top of the quality ladder and were the most suitable for long-term ageing.

Scroll down to see the top wines from this panel tasting

In theory, Gran Selezione should represent a producer’s best wine. The classification is obtained through laboratory testing and reviews by a tasting committee, but not every wine submitted is granted GS status.Its introduction was not universally popular among producers; some felt that named vineyards or the introduction of zoning (a further delimiting of the DOCG area) would ensure quality and show respect for terroir.Grapes for Gran Selezione wines must be from the same estate, but need not be from the same vineyard. However, as most producers voted to accept this new classification, even those who had reservations seem to be embracing it as a step in the right direction.

Quick link: View all 165 wines from this panel tasting

Ageing

Chianti Classico Riserva wines require a minimum of 24 months’ ageing from 1 January of the year following the harvest and this must include a minimum of three months in bottle.

Gran Selezione requires a minimum of 30 months’ ageing, including three months in bottle.

So a wine labelled Riserva may, in theory, have fulfilled the ageing criteria of a Gran Selezione; the producer could have decided not to submit it or, having done so, it could have been rejected by the committee, falling back into the Riserva category.

Vintage conditions

2014 was a challenging vintage with lots of rain even in summer, but a fine September helped save the day. Those producers who worked hard in the vineyard produced good wines.

The 2014s are often deeply coloured and fuller, but with a little less refined tannic structure. The best 2013s are beautifully balanced and poised with finer, more harmonious tannins. While they are very approachable now, they have the balance to age gracefully for several years.

The requirements for GS may not yet be as rigorous and precise as the most quality-conscious producers would like, but the Gran Selezione classification is helping to draw attention to some of the best wines of the region – and that can only be a good thing.

The scores

165 wines tasted

Entry criteria: Producers and UK agents were invited to submit their 2013 and 2014 Chianti Classico Riserva and Gran Selezione wines (maximum two wines per producer and one wine in each category)

Exceptional 0

Outstanding 7

Highly Recommended 73

Recommended 79

Commended 6

Fair 0

Poor 0

Faulty 0

See all 165 wines from the panel tasting

The results

With almost half the wines scoring 90 points or more, our judges were impressed by the quality of both tiers of wines, as well as both vintages. John Stimpfig reports on the post-tasting discussion.

For all three tasters, this was an encouraging vindication of Gran Selezione (GS), the top tier of the Chianti Classico classification, above Riserva, which came into effect from the 2013 vintage. Six of the seven top-scoring wines were GS, from 43 wines entered: ‘The results speak for themselves,’ said Andrea Briccarello.

It was also a successful tasting for the 116 Riserva wines submitted. ‘We had some lovely and exciting wines in both categories,’ said Susan Hulme MW.

Andrew Jefford concurred, noting that, ‘Chianti often comes in for a lot of flak. However, on the basis of this tasting that would be unfair. There were lots of true, deft, terroir wines that expressed themselves very well.’

Moreover, Briccarello suggested that these were not the easiest vintages for Chianti. ‘In my opinion the 2014 wines had the edge on the 2013s, which often felt a bit harder. But generally, the quality was outstanding. And although I am a Sangiovese puritan, I thought that the addition of a bit of Merlot and Cabernet really added to some of the wines.’

Jefford had a slightly different view of the vintages. ‘There are those who have made a great success of each, and some who have done less well. But it wasn’t a tasting to draw enormous vintage conclusions from.’

Inevitably the discussion focused more on GS wines. According to Hulme, this new classification ‘is an opportunity for producers to say, “this is my best wine”. Hopefully, tastings like this will help to lift the image of Chianti Classico’s top wines to equal that of Brunello di Montalcino and Barolo. Right now, though, it’s still a work in progress.’

While the overall quality was high, not all of the GS wines ticked our tasters’ boxes. Jefford found some less appealing examples: ‘The wines I liked least were more oaky, sweet and super ripe – a kind of “Barossa meets Chianti”, or “Rioja meets Chianti”.’

Hulme noted a trend for high extraction in the GS wines so they would ‘appear more important’ than the Riservas, but said this applied to a handful of entries rather than the majority.

Briccarello was pleasantly surprised by the number of entries for such a new category. ‘It’s clearly growing, which is good because it means producers are taking to the idea of releasing their best wines as Gran Selezione.’

Under the regulations, it’s up to each producer to decide whether to make a GS or not. For those who do, it automatically follows that their Riserva will be their ‘second’ wine.

Yet there are producers who still believe in the Riserva style as their flagship. ‘And they are making some lovely examples,’ emphasised Hulme. Consequently, all three tasters urged readers not to give up on Chianto Classico Riserva as there were plenty of nuanced, subtle wines which also provide great value.

‘Pleasingly, we found high-scoring wines from both classifications in the £30-£60 bracket which are also fair value for the money,’ said Jefford. ‘Consumers can expect to pay more for Gran Selezione wines,’ noted Briccarello. ‘But this isn’t a marketing trick – generally you are getting more in the wine.’

In terms of approachability, almost all the wines are ready now or from 2019; some have the potential to age, but you don’t need to keep them for a long time. These are also food wines. ‘With the tannins and acidity, they scream for meat,’ said Bricarello. ‘The Gran Selezione are finer and more structured and would go well with game.’

Our tasters each pick their top 3 wines from the tasting:

Andrea Briccarello

Briccarello is the UK brand ambassador for Bisol. He previously worked as wine buyer for Galvin restaurants and was buyer and group sommelier at Corrigan’s Mayfair, Bentley’s Oyster Bar & Grill, and Lindsay House. In 2009 Briccarello was named Sommelier of the Year by Taste of London, and he was the winner of the Wines of Roussillon Dessert Trophy in 2010.

Fèlsina, Rancia, Chianti Classico Riserva 2013

Located in Castelnuovo Berardenga, the Rancia vineyard is planted around 400m above sea level, giving the wine great freshness and density. Packed with dark berries and spices, this is a wine worth ageing. 96 Drink 2018-2022

Candialle, Chianti Classico Gran Selezione 2013

Situated in the stunning Conca d’Oro in Panzano, Candialle has about 11ha of vines planted on the famous galestro soil, that gives wine extreme elegance and purity of fruit. Great structure with plenty of poised fruits and supple tannins. 95 Drink 2018-2024

Rocca delle Macìe, Sergio Zingarelli, Chianti Classico Gran Selezione 2013

The Sergio Zingarelli is made from the best grapes in Castellina in Chianti, grown on limestone and sand. Aged mainly in French oak, this stunning wine showed pure elegance and textbook Sangiovese notes. 95 Drink 2018-2024

Susan Hulme MW

Hulme is a wine writer specialising in Italian wines. Previously Italian wine editor for Le Pan Media, since 2016 she has written regularly for Decanter and Decanter.com. She has lived and worked in Italy and regularly travels to Italian wine regions. She became a Master of Wine in 2005, winning the Madame Bollinger medal for outstanding performance in the tasting exam.

Fèlsina, Colonia, Chianti Classico Gran Selezione 2013

A true terroir wine from a special vineyard at 420m on the top of Poggio a Rancia, with a particularly hard, rocky soil that is expressed in the firm, powdered rock tannins. 95 Drink 2018-2023

Marchesi Antinori, Badia a Passignano, Chianti Classico Gran Selezione 2013

It’s great to see the hugely influential and innovative Antinori family still leading the field with this beautifully balanced and seductively silky wine. 95 Drink 2019-2024

Isole e Olena, Chianti Classico Gran Selezione 2013

Brimming with charm and charisma, this wine is made mainly from a few special barrels of Cepparello (Sangiovese) blended with a small amount of Bordeaux varieties. 93 Drink 2018-2024

Andrew Jefford

Jefford writes a monthly column for Decanter and the ‘Jefford on Monday’ blog on Decanter.com. He has been writing and broadcasting about wine since the 1980s, winning many awards for his work. After spending 15 months as a senior research fellow at Adelaide University in 2009-2010, he now lives with his family in the Languedoc, close to Pic St Loup.

Il Palagio di Panzano, Le Bambole, Chianti Classico Gran Selezione 2013

Balanced, equable and fine-grained – yet crafted with a generosity of style which the long, drawn-out 2013 vintage made possible for those prepared to try. 97 Drink 2018-2025

Marchesi Antinori, Badia a Passignano, Chianti Classico Gran Selezione 2013

Bravo to Antinori for creating a 2013 Gran Selezione at the Badia a Passignano estate of very fine perfume and intensity: no resting on laurels here. 95 Drink 2019-2024

Isole e Olena, Chianti Classico Gran Selezione 2013

Disarmingly seductive at first sniff, and the charm deepened every time I went back to the glass. A Chianti Classico of penetration, structure and authority. 93 Drink 2018-2024

Chianti Classico: the facts

Total area 70,000ha, altitudes 200m-800m

Key towns Castellina in Chianti, Gaiole in Chianti, Greve in Chianti, Radda in Chianti; parts of Barberino Val d’Elsa, Castelnuovo Berardenga, Poggibonsi, San Casciano in Val di Pesa and Tavarnelle Val di Pesa

Grapes Sangiovese 80%-100%, other reds up to 20%

Consorzio members 580, including 376 producers

Production 2017: 27.5m bottles (Chianti Classico 64%, Riserva 32%, Gran Selezione 4%); 2016: 37.5m; 2015: 40m; 2014: 39m; 2013: 34m

Chianti Classico: know your vintages

2016 Low July rainfall, summer not excessively hot. Potentially excellent; very distinctive Sangiovese. Keep.

2015 Near-perfect: cold winter, mild spring, hot summer, cold overnight temperatures. The best wines will easily last 10 years.

2014 Cool, rainy early summer, saved by a fine September. Hard work in the vineyard repaid dividends. For early drinking.

2013 Cold winter, wet early spring, near-perfect summer. Classic: supremely harmonious and elegant. Drink or keep.

2012 Cold, snowy winter then one of the hottest ever summers. Despite this, wines are not heavy but still for early drinking.

2011 Very hot August; vines in hilly, water-retaining clay soils did best. Wines have rich tannins but good acidity.

Top rated wines from the panel tasting:

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