Chianti Classico Gran Selezione: New releases in 2024

A selection of three parcels within this 23ha site. While Sangiovese is its soul, 50-year-old Malvasia Nera is intrinsic to Bellavista’s expression, lending nuance and tempering austerity. The two are blended after malolactic fermentation before refinement in French oak barriques. A tempting procession of coffee, incense, sweet herbs, moist earth and truffle emerges with each swirl. The palate is a thrilling and energetic tug-of-war with dark, lush fruit set against chiselled tannins. A gravelly texture adds to the drama and intense violet pierces the finish. Generous yet still tight.

The estate’s first foray into the Gran Selezione category hails from a new estate vineyard planted in 2015 with Sangiovese cuttings from Isole e Olena. The stony one-hectare, south-facing site sits on Alberese soil at 560 metres above sea level. Aromas are vivid and arresting, with fragrant Ginestra and sun-baked stone infusing well delineated cherry and strawberry. While decidedly commanding, it manages to balance density with agility and admirable finesse of tannins. Racy acidity melds with nuances of blood orange while wet soil lends a grounding element. It flows confidently to the finish, where mint mingles with those gorgeous florals. Bravo!

The Sorbo vineyard sits just below the winery on schistous Galestro soil between 400 and 450 metres and boasts 50- to 60-year-old vines. Owner Giovanni Manetti says it is the same team that has harvested this plot for years. The 2021 spent 15 months in barriques followed by nine in large casks, and unfurls leisurely from a smoky incense overlay through dusty, sunbaked earth to black cherry. Virile and sturdy, the palate packs in dense fruit, glimpses of clove and cedar, and pops with blackcurrant purity. A clayey, terracotta-like texture accompanies generous chewy tannins. Plenty here for a long rest in the cellar.

The estate’s third release, this Gran Selezione is among the top wines from Chianti Classico’s 2019 vintage. Just 4,000 bottles were produced from Querciabella’s site above 500 metres on the steep, stony slope of the Ruffoli hill. Coy to begin with, it hints at coffee, smoke and oily herbs such as grilled rosemary and sage. The palate is tight and sinewy, showing cranberry and red currants punctuated by inner-mouth perfumes of lilac and a crushed stone sensation. Decisive, linear tannins are carved with precision and accentuated by zesty acidity. I was lucky enough to try this on a few separate occasions and it just gets better with each sip.

The estate’s second cru, Casuccia was born in 1985 – seven years after Bellavista. It is slightly lower in altitude than the latter and tilts towards the west rather than the east. The presence of Merlot also makes a crucial difference. Ripe blue plum and blackberry are embedded with smoke and toasty oak. While this is rounder than Bellavista there is no lack of structure: the dense fruit core is well padded with fleshy, broad tannins flexing assertive muscle. Bay leaf and tobacco impart a savoury edge, pushed by underlying stony minerals.

Selected from the estate’s Campo ai Peri vineyard, this bottling is dedicated to owner Valeria Viganò's father, Luigi. It has been produced since 2012 as a Riserva and was elevated to Gran Selezione with the 2016 vintage. Becoming scents of tarragon, jasmine and camomile divulge slowly against a backdrop of pulverised stone. The palate is youthful, demonstrating sinewy substance. It falls steadily into place and lands with a mineral drive. Distinct accents of bitter orange play off the firm, chiselled tannins, and there's no lack of brisk acidity here.

In the northern reaches of the Gaiole township, Vigna Cavarchione boasts a stony soil of limestone-rich schistous shale. At over 400 metres above sea level, it tilts towards the southeast. The plushest and fullest of Istine’s Gran Selezione triad, this is already gorgeously perfumed, with intense grilled fennel, tarragon and coriander. Wild, brambly berries permeate the palate, demonstrating both concentration and suppleness. Sweet earth and lilac accents lie in wait, the fluidity propelled by succulent acidity while pliant, generous tannins lend textural complexity.

As of the 2021 vintage, all three of Istine’s cru bottlings have been elevated to Gran Selezione and see an additional three months in wood, for a total of 15 months. From the estate’s home vineyard, high up in Radda, this radiates its cool, fresh locale – from the lightness and brightness of the ruby hue to the crystalline aromas and finely sculpted frame. Unhindered fragrances of rose, red cherry, currant blossom and orange soar from the glass. Svelte yet not lean, this rings out persistently with red berry purity. Stony minerals intertwine with energising acidity and crunchy tannins cleanse the mouth, leaving a trail of mint blossom and spicy juniper.

The Gittori vineyard is on a terraced slope reaching 500 metres above sea level – the estate's highest plot which boasts 50-year-old vines. This Gran Selezione enchants with heady scents of liquorice, allspice, mint blossom and jasmine. It is sumptuous and laden with concentrated raspberry, cherry skins and accents evocative of forest growth. There are no hard edges as dense layers of suede-like tannins meld seamlessly, and bright acidity keeps it buoyant. Still wrapped up with youthful intensity, this should unravel slowly to reveal greater depths and detail as it ages.

The last of Ricasoli's vineyards to be picked, Ceniprimo is located on an ancient fluvial terrace of sand and silt. At 300 metres above sea level, it faces west to southwest. As with all three of Ricasoli’s cru bottlings, this is fermented with selected yeasts indigenous to the Brolio estate, and ages in 500-litre tonneaux of which 30% are new. Medicinal herbs and vanilla weave through dark red cherry. The ripe, dense, fleshy fruit is coated with ample dusty tannins, while zesty, citrussy acidity gives a refreshing, countering lift. It leaves behind resounding suggestions of leather, chinotto and earthy forest roots, and deserves cellaring.

This late-release 2019 Gran Selezione is a selection of the estate's lower altitude, oldest vines, planted in 1965. It spends 24 months in large casks before bottling, and impresses with its poise. Tobacco, black tea and ripe cherry scents evoke the beauty of Sangiovese, with bold and vibrant dark berries and balsamic ripples in the mouth. The fruit is dark in tone but bright in nature, complemented by zesty acidity, floral lift and wonderful sapidity. Only 2,000 bottles produced.

Replanted in 2004, Vigna Bastignano boasts a massal selection of the property’s old Sangiovese clones. The bush vines sit on wide, well exposed terraced rows propped up by old stone walls following the contours of the slope. It is the most elegant of the estate’s Gran Selezione trio. Bright notes of grenadine, liquorice and violet engage, while sweet spice oak nuances are subtly entrenched. The ripeness and graciousness of fruit is balanced by a bracing backbone, and velvety tannins provide a snug grip. Almost ready to drink but should evolve slowly.

Produced since 2016, the single-vineyard Le Bolle bottling was born as a more structured, 100% Sangiovese alternative to the estate’s well established La Prima label. It is a robust, firm and commanding expression. Oak-derived vanilla scents lead, then mint and fennel infuse black raspberry. Dry, chalky tannins shore up the concentrated palate – there is lots to chew on here. A promising earthy, truffle hint pokes through on the finish. A mere 1,300 bottles produced in 2020.

While spring frost reduced Il Molino di Grace’s yields by 20% in 2021, it spared the estate’s southwest-facing slope, where vines over 50 years old are earmarked for this Gran Selezione. It leads with oak inflections of roasted coffee and exotic spice atop sage and singed rosemary. Sturdily built and full bodied, the palate packs ample power with its dense, pure fruit and enthusiastically extracted, chunky tannins. Lustrous black cherry laced with bitter chocolate and balsamic herbs simmers at the core. A hefty mouthful that manages to balance all its substantial components.

Produced since 2010, A Sofia represents the passage to the new generation – it was the year that Sofia Ruhne started working at her parent’s estate, and she wanted to make a 100% Sangiovese exclusively from estate fruit, which has since become the direction at Terreno. From 40-year-old vines, it boasts a vibrantly perfumed nose of red cherry, allspice, fennel and rose. There is a plush ripeness and lovely purity to the fruit, which takes on darker spiced cherry tones. Generous but not heavy, it is lifted by citrussy acidity and elegantly framed with fine, sandy tannins.

The estate’s top wine, Salita was bottled as an IGT prior to the 2020 vintage. It is crafted from bush vine-trained Sangiovese on the property’s 15 highest stone terraces, reaching 450 metres above sea level. Exuding profound ripeness, the nose gushes with dried plum, chocolate and cherry pie. It's equally rich on the palate, where abundant sweet spice and cedar nuances are evocative of barrique ageing. While more distinctive of style than place it nevertheless exhibits admirable purity of fruit – although the alcohol does sneak up in this hefty offering.

Castello di Querceto produces two single-vineyard Gran Selezione from its 70-hectare expanse in Greve. Replanted in 1993, Il Picchio reaches 450 metres above sea level and is a relatively cool site surrounded by forest, with an east to southeast exposure. Nevertheless, the warm growing season confers a plushness and generosity to the 2021 release. Still very youthful, even reductive, it pushes forth intense blackberry subtly accented by leather and grilled rosemary. Chock full, the weighty palate remains fresh, echoing the exuberance of the nose. Fleshy blue plum is enfolded in pliant, chewy tannins, and it finishes with cedar and chocolate.