Chianti Classico new releases 2024 score table
As the Chianti Classico consorzio celebrates its 100-year anniversary in 2024, the very first UGA-labelled Gran Selezione are finally unveiled. These, however, only represent a tiny fraction of the almost 800 new releases.
Given different ageing regulations within Chianti Classico’s three-tiered classification, a wide range of vintages is released every year. A first peek at the ‘saved-by-August-rain’ 2022 is restricted to the annata level, whilst the preliminary 2021 Riserva and Gran Selezione, together with longer-aged annata, provide a comprehensive picture of what has shaped up to be an excellent vintage.
As always, there are a significant number of late releases, and I have tasted new wines back to the 2017 vintage.
After sampling over 250 wines, many multiple times, Michaela Morris is thrilled to recommend 180 from every corner of the zone.
Producer |
Appellation |
Vintage |
Score |
Notes |
Header Cell - Column 5 |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Chianti Classico |
2021 |
95 |
Row 0 - Cell 4 | From Jurij Fiore’s highest holdings in Lamole, reaching 650 metres, the south- to southwest-facing site boasts plantings over 75 years old and includes small portions of grapes like Colorino and Canaiolo Nero. Aged in 30% new barrels, it is concentrated in its captivating earthy aromas of jasmine, peppermint, anise and rooibos tea. Savoury rather than fruity, the spry palate picks up those exotic spices and flowers on a cranberry backdrop. The acidity is piercing, and long, silky tannins build to a serious grip. Bitter chocolate and rosemary appear on the back end, then the finish reverberates with all the wine’s intricate nuances. |
|
Chianti Classico |
2021 |
94 |
Row 1 - Cell 4 | Emblematic of the exceptional quality offered at Chianti Classico’s annata level, Fontodi’s 2021 over-delivers yet again, exuding the wild, tousled, arid Tuscan countryside on a backdrop of dark, layered fruit. Hints of coffee and liquorice ripple through concentrated black cherry and blackberry. With ripe, gravelly tannins, this shows the power of the vintage without being forceful and maintains charismatic energy throughout. It's worth waiting a few more months before tucking in, but properly cellared, this will easily keep delivering for a decade. |
|
Chianti Classico |
2021 |
94 |
Row 2 - Cell 4 | While Isole e Olena’s vineyards did suffer some minor frost damage in 2021, former owner Paolo de Marchi said it wasn’t dramatic, and fans will be happy to know that there is still ample quantity of this flag-bearing Chianti Classico. Bit by bit, it reveals characteristic nuances of brushwood, currants, rosehip, strawberry and pepper. Succulent and light on feet, the palate is judiciously concentrated with pure and persistent red berries. Taut, integrated tannins provide definition, and it trails off with garden-fresh herbs. This should give plenty of pleasure over the next eight to 10 years. |
|
Chianti Classico |
2021 |
94 |
Row 3 - Cell 4 | The inaugural release, Altolà is the only one of Jurij Fiore’s Chianti Classico wines not from the Lamole township. Instead, the vineyard is found across the Greve Valley, on Montefioralle’s upper clay slopes at 450 metres. Toasty, macerated red cherry is complemented by hints of clove. The sweet spice-infused palate is round, full and lush. Yet underneath a sumptuousness of fruit, this is mineral edged, with zippy acidity, while pliant tannins grip on the finish. This textural and flavourful red should show some of its more subtle nuances with time. |
|
Chianti Classico |
2021 |
94 |
Row 4 - Cell 4 | Produced since 2015, Puntodivista is one of Jurij and Sara Fiore’s first wines under their eponymous label and comes from a densely planted vineyard of 10,000 bush-trained vines per hectare. The 50-year-old Sangiovese is co-fermented with a dash of other local varieties. Eucalyptus, sandalwood and white pepper scents are joined by a hint of cinnamon. The wood is a bit pronounced and upfront, giving broad, grainy tannins, but underneath, an intense core of juicy blood orange rings out. While powerful, it remains sinewy in muscle and midweight. Vertical, energetic and in need of time. |
|
Chianti Classico |
2021 |
94 |
Row 5 - Cell 4 | Based in Radda, Tenuta di Carleone farms several parcels throughout this sector and beyond. The focus is always on high altitude sites, from which Sean O’Callaghan coaxes extraordinary purity of Sangiovese while confidently pushing the boundaries of winemaking. The 2021 is another beautiful success: it marries floral scents of rose and lilac with spicy herbs and summer berries. On the palate, plump cherries drip with succulent juiciness. Then, assertive chalky tannins take hold, drawing the wine out with savoury length. Very satisfying. |
|
Chianti Classico |
2022 |
93 |
Row 6 - Cell 4 | Hailing from a vineyard at 580 metres above sea level, Sonocosì refines for just a few months in concrete to achieve a fresh expression of Sangiovese, the intention being to hold a mirror up to the Lamole district. The nose burst with the freshest of raspberries backed up by rose, lilac and juniper. Crunchy pomegranate and blood orange are elevated by frisky acidity, and the tannins are light with a fine, powdery texture, cleansing the palate while leaving behind persistent nuances of alpine herbs and citrus zest. A thrilling expression of unwooded Sangiovese. |
|
Chianti Classico |
2021 |
93 |
Row 7 - Cell 4 | Reaching almost 600 metres above sea level, the west-facing, terraced vineyard was planted in 2008 and yields a low 25hl/ha. Refined in equal proportions of stainless steel, new and second-use barrels, this is the fullest and densest fruit of Jurij Fiore’s Lamole bottlings – yet still isn’t huge. Initial oak notes of mint, nutmeg and toast morph into cedar-inflected cherry and strawberry. There is a lashing of vanillin on the palate, and the tannins are chewy and just a bit dry, but then zesty acidity and a bitter chinotto note kick in and it finishes fresh and feisty. |
|
Chianti Classico |
2021 |
93 |
Row 8 - Cell 4 | Trained enologist, Diego Finocchi counts five hectares spread over three different hills, all within the district of Radda. As with the 2020 vintage, the 2021 sees a higher percentage of Canaiolo Nero., which is co-fermented with Sangiovese to enhance aromas and lend immediate drinkability. Very territorial in its scents of cranberry, raspberry bush, spicy herbs and allspice with a trace of mocha, the dark, fleshy red cherry flavours provide depth of fruit and volume, yet this is midweight. Racy integrated acidity draws it effortlessly across the palate, making the smooth tannins seem like an afterthought. Slate-like minerals are artfully tucked in. Genuine, full of soul and so deliciously drinkable. |
|
Chianti Classico |
2021 |
93 |
Row 9 - Cell 4 | As production was down by 40% due to spring frost and drought conditions, winemaker Tim Manning made one single Chianti Classico, foregoing a Riserva bottling for the second year in a row. For this annata, he used a slightly higher percentage of whole clusters than usual, and a long maceration of 90 days, giving intense aromas of liquorice, oregano and dewy forest growth. The palate is decidedly spicy, bringing a peppery snap to those herb nuances. Bitter orange and strawberry pop through the core. Persistent flavours are protracted by focused acidity, while smooth, elegant tannins give seamless support. Seemingly lightweight, but stealthy power simmers. |
|
Chianti Classico |
2021 |
93 |
Row 10 - Cell 4 | Produced since 1974, Querciabella’s annata has surely transformed over the decades but in recent years it has been one of the zone’s most consistent overperformers. In 2021, grapes were picked between 1-21 October, harnessing all the vintage’s concentration with the vivacity of the estate’s high altitude sites. Hints of smoke and terracotta lace through dark raspberry and black currants, as heady rose slowly amplifies. Tight-grained tannins are stitched seamlessly into the supple fruit fabric. There is such a pristine quality to this as it vibrates with scintillating energy. |
|
Chianti Classico |
2022 |
92 |
Row 11 - Cell 4 | Always a blend of estate vineyards in Radda and Gaiole, the 2022 incorporates Sangiovese from new acquisitions in Vagliagli and Lamole. It also sees the addition of 1% Malvasia Nera – Angela Fronti says she wanted to preserve the tradition of including a dash of other local varieties. Already quite forward in aromas, the just-bottled annata conveys dark red cherry infused with liquorice and grilled chestnut. Well defined and energetic, the palate progresses to ripe yet fresh raspberry with a crunchy bite, buoyed by abundant bright acidity and pervading fennel notes. Light, granular tannins just need a few more months to integrate. |
|
Chianti Classico |
2022 |
92 |
Row 12 - Cell 4 | Michele Braganti says that while he lost 20% of production to hail, the vines didn’t suffer water stress thanks to the abundant rainfall in August. Harvest began relatively early, in mid-September, and was drawn out until 7 October. Focused aromas of wild forest berries, violet and tarragon speak to Radda’s cool heights. The palate allies concentration with lightness and purity of fruit. Raspberry and currants ride a wave of brisk acidity, while the tannins are crisp and compact yet ultimately sophisticated. All is in place for satisfying drinking over the next five to six years. |
|
Chianti Classico |
2022 |
92 |
Row 13 - Cell 4 | Once again, Poggerino’s Piero Lanza puts out one of the most successful annata of the vintage thus far. His 11 hectares in Radda sit mainly on Galestro soil with an underpinning of clay rather than sand, giving seriously structured wines. Dense fruit and spice greet the nose, with glossy dark red cherry, mint and cinnamon following through on the palate. Impressive substance is backed up by chewy, layered tannins, gracious rather than austere, dissolving slowly into the crunchy currants that draw out the finish. Vibrant and impressive. |
|
Chianti Classico |
2022 |
92 |
Row 14 - Cell 4 | San Giusto a Rentennano’s 32 hectares are spread throughout the sunlit southern tip of Gaiole in an area called Monti. Here, the soil alternates between marine sand and limestone-rich Alberese. Crafted from a first selection of all 30 plots, the annata is profuse in expression, and it's easy to get lost in nuances of spiced cherry, fennel and sundried tomato. Whiffs of coffee and plum blossom join in. Expansive though not heavy, the palate is laden with luscious dark plum and cherry. There is an obvious ripeness, yet it tightens up with each sip. Compact, layered tannins have a subtle chalky fee, and it finishes with its signature refreshing bitter orange twist. |
|
Chianti Classico |
2021 |
92 |
Row 15 - Cell 4 | Long-time champions of biodiversity, the Stucchi family maintains a massal selection of Sangiovese throughout the estate’s 60 hectares. After spontaneous fermentation with native yeast and maceration of no more than three weeks, the annata is refined in French and Austrian oak casks. Discreet yet persistent, pretty herbs and spring blossoms sit atop glossy strawberry. While the palate is slightly austere and angular still, it demonstrates terrific tension and focus. Fine-grained tannins provide an effortless, unforced structure, while pristine raspberry notes are heightened by saline minerals in this midweight beauty. |
|
Chianti Classico |
2021 |
92 |
Row 16 - Cell 4 | All three of Dievole’s vineyard-designated annatas are crafted from young vines, fermented in concrete and aged in untoasted 40-hectolitre casks. Petrignano, which means stony place, boasts the greatest presence of schistose Galestro and tilts northeastward at 350 metres above sea level. The most elegant and complete of the triad, there's a sumptuousness to the dark cherry and blackberry nose. Appealing whiffs of sunbaked stone and allspice interject. Juicy and fresh, the palate boasts sneaky concentration and smooth, velvety tannins, with mouth-cleansing acidity and lively energy. Trails off with rosehip tea. |
|
Chianti Classico |
2021 |
92 |
Row 17 - Cell 4 | Crafted from 15- to 20-year-old vines, the annata sees just a short passage in 20-hectolitre Slavonian oak casks. There's a dash of Colorino in the 2021, which is co-fermented with the Sangiovese. Elegantly restrained without lacking personality, intriguing aromas of sage, iron and blood orange peel implore a sip. The palate is awash with stony minerals and fills the mouth with a satisfying chew. The tannins are tightly fastened, lending real staying power. Serious juice offering excellent value. |
|
Chianti Classico |
2021 |
92 |
Row 18 - Cell 4 | Giovanni Manetti’s seven-hectare slice of Lamole has been in his extended family for years. He was instrumental in replanting the decades-old vineyards 20 to 25 years ago, and left just a few old vines pushing a century. While the 2021 exhibits the fine, elegant frame of this high-altitude subzone, it packs a bit more substance than previous editions. A panoply of savoury herbs, juniper and heather surge from the glass. The palate exhibits lovely clarity and energetic acidity, gently wrapped in long, flowy, confident tannins. And through the dark red cherry core, lightness and brightness radiate. |
|
Chianti Classico |
2021 |
92 |
Row 19 - Cell 4 | A testament to Sangiovese’s light-on-its-feet elegance, Susanna Grassi’s flagship wine reads as a love letter to the lofty township of Lamole. Unadorned by oak, this refines simply in concrete vats. Joyfully youthful red cherry and red currants are joined by intoxicating scents of iris and rose. Streamlined and fluid, the palate brings in pomegranate and lavender with a refreshing acid crunch. Seamlessly wrapped up in silky tannins, its confident frame will lend gracious support for the next seven to eight years. |
|
Chianti Classico |
2021 |
92 |
Row 20 - Cell 4 | Tucked away in the heady heights of Lamole, Podere Castellinuzza counts just 3.5 hectares of old vines. The annata is crafted from the youngest plantings, pushing 60 years old. Refined in concrete, it tantalises with spicy black pepper and delicate herb blossom scents. Pretty perfumes of alpine flowers flood the palate, where a pomegranate tang takes a pleasingly tart twist. Fine-boned with sandy textured tannins yet not lacking in substance. As attractive as this wine is now, do not underestimate its staying power and ability to develop over the next five years or so. |
|
Chianti Classico |
2020 |
92 |
Row 21 - Cell 4 | Assembled from two terraced vineyards reaching 550 metres above sea level, this bottling includes a generous dollop of old-vine Canaiolo Nero. Ageing in a combination of used tonneaux and concrete allows the cheerful, juicy fruit to shine. Red cherry and raspberry aromas are joined by orange and crunchy cranberry on the palate. Delicate yet enduring blossoms flit through, while a silky texture of light, sandy tannins caresses the mouth. While this isn’t I Fabbri’s most complex bottling, it has tons of refreshing appeal and lively energy. Try not to guzzle it too quickly! |
|
Chianti Classico |
2020 |
92 |
Row 22 - Cell 4 | Roberto Bianchi describes the 2020 growing season as up and down, with variable temperatures and rainfall. Uneven ripening required multiple passages at harvest. Yet this is really textbook Radda here, the coolness of the zone amplified by Val delle Corti’s northeast-facing vineyards. A pale yet bright ruby colour is matched by pristine, transparent aromas of raspberry and pomegranate. Midweight with stony, succulent acidity and fine, chalky tannins, the stunning lightness of being does not exclude depth and flavour, and this pops with red cherry fruit and a mint blossom and white pepper perfume. |
|
Chianti Classico |
2022 |
91 |
Row 23 - Cell 4 | While Francesco Ricasoli reports that quantities were slightly down and harvest was a bit earlier than usual in 2022, he is among those who reference the late August rain as a saviour of the vintage. And this year’s Brolio is simply textbook Chianti Classico, offering a fragrant juxtaposition of moist soil and spring blossoms on a well-padded backdrop of currants, cranberry and sour cherry. Tightly knit with an elegant frame of light, powdery tannins and firm, steely acidity. Really quite impressive for its almost 500,000-bottle production. |
|
Chianti Classico |
2022 |
91 |
Row 24 - Cell 4 | A blend of warm, southwest-facing plots with cooler northeast-facing parcels, Tommaso Marzi-Marrocchesi favours larger, juicier berries and gives a short maceration (maximum two weeks) with a gentle extraction, aiming for immediate drinkability. Ageing is in concrete. This wafts with a tangle of garden herbs – mint, tarragon and fennel – and a trace of vanillin. A concentrated core of ripe red cherry is well weighted without being hefty. Citrussy acidity keeps it buoyant, and chalky grape tannins lend texture. Very drinkable indeed. |
|
Chianti Classico |
2022 |
91 |
Row 25 - Cell 4 | In the upper slopes of Castellina, Castagnoli tends 11 hectares of south- to southwest-facing terraced vineyards. A blend of all 19 plots, the 2022 annata has harnessed the warmth of the vintage with admirable balance of ripeness. Nuances of cherry and currant are pure and fresh, while fragrant thyme and tobacco lend aromatic and flavour complexity. While there is a distinct sweetness to the fruit, it is neatly juxtaposed by a savoury earthiness. Powdery tannins girdle its full figure, and succulent acidity propels the persistent finish. |
|
Chianti Classico |
2022 |
91 |
Row 26 - Cell 4 | First produced in 2010, Ama was conceived following the estate’s extensive replanting project. Winemaker Marco Pallanti decided to bottle the younger, more productive vines separately from older plantings – the latter go into the San Lorenzo Gran Selezione. The 2022 is full of youthful vim. Scents of cinnamon, red plum and dark cherry percolate on the nose, and red rose lurks in the background. Medium in weight, it offers a mouthful of cherry pits and gravelly stones inflected with white pepper. Very juicy, peppy acidity joins a light, chalky tannin frame. |
|
Chianti Classico |
2022 |
91 |
Row 27 - Cell 4 | In 2022, harvest started mid-September with younger Sangiovese vines planted on marine sand, which make up the backbone of this annata. The youthful purple colour suggests a healthy dash of Colorino. Deep red cherry and wild strawberry are suffused with fragrant Mediterranean herbs and a distinct note of orange blossom. Amply packed with tangy, tart berries, the palate is speckled with light, grainy tannins which lend textural nuance. A snap of pepper and savoury salinity stimulate the appetite. This has the guts to stand up to herb-crusted pork loin. |
|
Chianti Classico |
2022 |
91 |
Row 28 - Cell 4 | Matteo Vaccari says they were concerned about picking too late in 2022 and started harvest on 20 September. You feel that tension in the wine: it takes time and a vigorous swirl to coax out aromas of brushwood, green alpine herbs and, eventually, black cherry. On the palate there is surprising lightness and bounce for the vintage. Here, a mix of lean red and black currants is infused with sage. Very al dente tannins are just ripe but build with powdery texture. Aged in mostly used barriques. |
|
Chianti Classico |
2022 |
91 |
Row 29 - Cell 4 | At the southeastern end of Chianti Classico, the Fèlsina property spills into the Chianti Colli Senesi zone where, on a clear day you can see all the way to Siena, just 15km away. Harnessing its sunbathed setting, the 2022 is immediate and effusive in its charms. It evokes Maritime pine, scrubby Mediterranean brush and wild yellow broom, building in concentration as it glides fluently across the palate, where rocky minerals meet ripe strawberry. Vibrant, if a bit brisk to finish. |
|
Chianti Classico |
2022 |
91 |
Row 30 - Cell 4 | In the southern reaches of Panzano, Il Molino di Grace just escaped being in the path of 2022’s mid-August hail. Giving a full yield, harvest started in the third week of September and finished at the end of the second week of October. The annata bottling encapsulates the season’s heat with a slightly wild overtone. Aromas of dried violet, dark cherry compote, leather and chestnut intensify with each sniff. Mouthfilling and flavourful, it is laden with late summer berries enveloped in grainy tannins while retaining a brightness and lift, and finishes with a bitter root twist. |
|
Chianti Classico |
2022 |
91 |
Row 31 - Cell 4 | Rising steeply from 350 to 550 metres above sea level, Poggio Scalette’s stone-terraced vineyards sit in the upper, arid reaches of the Greve Valley. Matured in concrete rather than wood, the annata gives a keen sense of place through its pure fruit expression. It is attractively scented with thyme and sage blossoms emerging from warm, dusty earth, and there's an ease and joyfulness to the red-berried palate without being oversimplified. The tannins are lightly chalky, and tangy acidity stimulates the appetite. |
|
Chianti Classico |
2022 |
91 |
Row 32 - Cell 4 | As with the 2021, the 2022 demonstrates both the warm microclimate of San Casciano and the balmy summer temperatures through the ripeness of fruit and sweetness of tannins. It seems to pack in even more than the previous vintage while remaining balanced, juicy and satiating. Boisterous aromas of eucalyptus and leather are matched by dark fruit tones. The palate is replete with black currant and blackberry, and there is quite a chew to those tannins. As always, excellent value here. |
|
Chianti Classico |
2022 |
91 |
Row 33 - Cell 4 | In the upper reaches of the Gaiole township, Riecine counts 12 vineyard plots totalling 16 hectares. The annata brings together the estate’s younger vines, between 10 and 30 years old. Exuberantly fragrant, it exhibits pomegranate, watermelon and a touch of rose. Fleshy berries fill out the core but remain crunchy and crisp. There is lovely clarity here, and lots of zesty acidity. Light-yet-taut tannins provide a neat frame. |
|
Chianti Classico |
2022 |
91 |
Row 34 - Cell 4 | In 2015, at the age of 25, Sophie Conte took over her family’s five-hectare estate in Castellina’s upper hills. She crafts two single-vineyard bottlings and this annata, which is a blend of young vine plots. It undergoes whole-berry fermentation and refines in concrete vats. Fresh mint, sage and raspberry ring out of the glass. There is an immediacy of clean, pure fruit on the palate, reminiscent of very crunchy cherry skins. Racy, refreshing acidity rips through the core and the tannins provide a slightly gravelly texture. This has plenty of substance and structure for the next five to six years. |
|
Chianti Classico |
2021 |
91 |
Row 35 - Cell 4 | Villa Calcinaia is a historic estate in the district of Montefioralle. Its 37th-generation owner, Count Sebastiano Capponi, takes an unhurried approach to his annata. Long ageing in 30-hectolitre casks is followed by further refinement in concrete before bottling and release. It emerges with hints of strawberry and mineral before giving way to darker tones of lilac and black currant tones. The palate is compact in 2021, showing a density of ripe forest berries and clingy, clay-like tannins. Nevertheless, there is a crisp, fresh fruit core. This has stuffing and structure for at least five years. |
|
Chianti Classico |
2021 |
91 |
Row 36 - Cell 4 | Located just beneath the town of Panzano, Le Fonti’s nine hectares of vineyards surround the estate. The annata is crafted from plots on east-facing slopes which bask in the gentle morning sun. Despite losing 50% of Sangiovese production to frost in 2021, the annata is a lovely expression of the vintage: animated, full and frisky. Vivid red cherry is complemented by earthy herbs and hints of cacao. The palate is well padded with juicy berries. It exhibits proper tension, chewy tannins and a crunchy bite. Very satiating. |
|
Chianti Classico |
2021 |
91 |
Row 37 - Cell 4 | Owner Paula Papini Cook says she was able to avoid frost damage in 2021 by waiting until April to prune and therefore delaying budding. Harvested in October, the annata sees a pinch of local blending partners, Malvasia Nera and Colorino. It offers gorgeous fragrances of raspberry, red rose and thyme blossom. Clear fruited and light on its feet, the palate refreshes and tantalises, and light, chalky tannins provide an elegant frame to the succulent cherry core. Uncomplicated but delightful, this fully embraces immediate, joyful sipping. |
|
Chianti Classico |
2021 |
91 |
Row 38 - Cell 4 | As of this vintage, the estate has phased out international varieties from its annata, relying solely on Canaiolo Nero to mollify Sangiovese. Second- and third-passage barriques help soften it further. Nevertheless, this endures with youthful exuberance: strawberry, confected cherry and violet surge from the glass. Packed with ripe fruit, the palate remains vibrant owing to the juicy, steadfast acidity. Gracious tannins are savoury and fuse seamlessly with the bitter orange peel finish. |
|
Chianti Classico |
2021 |
91 |
Row 39 - Cell 4 | Purchased by Philippe Austruy (owner of Château Malescasse in Bordeaux) in 2015, this Panzano estate is still going through extensive restoration. His young team favours local varieties over international, has transitioned from barrique to larger cask, and – as of 2022 – all the wines will be certified organic. The efforts are apparent in this 2021 annata, where hints of violet and blood orange lift brooding earth notes. There is lovely fruit clarity of sour red cherry, balanced concentration and appealingly tart, taut acidity, and savoury tannins hold everything in place. |
|
Chianti Classico |
2021 |
91 |
Row 40 - Cell 4 | What started out as a university project for young Cosimo Bojola has become an annual release for his family’s estate, albeit in small quantities – just 3,000 bottles of this amphora-aged 100% Sangiovese are produced. It bursts with intense floral scents of Ginestra, iris and sage blossom. Cheerful and mouthfilling, it expands with fleshy red cherry and raspberry infused with peppery spice. The tannins are soft and clingy, giving a graceful frame, and zesty citrus acidity buoys the whole. |
|
Chianti Classico |
2021 |
91 |
Row 41 - Cell 4 | Terreno’s annata now bears the name Tre Vigne, acknowledging the addition of the estate’s new Sillano plot in Montefioralle, which is blended with fruit from the Bonille and Terreno vineyards on the right bank of Greve. Warm summer berries are interlaced with scents of savoury herbs, cinnamon and clove. There is a fullness of fruit and flavour with a buoyancy of spirit. Luscious dark cherry is countered by concentrated succulent acidity and fine, chalky tannins lend a fluid shape. |
|
Chianti Classico |
2020 |
91 |
Row 42 - Cell 4 | Owner Paolo Cianferoni believes that Sangiovese from the cool sector of Radda needs plenty of ageing before release. This unoaked 2020 annata was refined exclusively in concrete vats and bottled in October 2023. Clean and nuanced, it slowly ekes out wild raspberry, black tea, dusty earth and orange peel, becoming more youthful and focused as it sits in the glass. The palate is tactile and savoury; chalky tannins wield their grip but dissolve gracefully with a pleasantly powdery sensation. Concentrated citrussy acidity emerges with a burst of florals on the finish. |
|
Chianti Classico |
2020 |
91 |
Row 43 - Cell 4 | In the northern limits of Panzano, Le Cinciole is crafted from east- and southeast-facing plots of various ages. Always one of the late releases, it goes through lengthy ageing in cask and concrete before being bottled unfiltered with just a modest addition of sulphur. Characteristically reserved, the 2020 emerges from its dusty veil flirting with liquorice and violet. Demonstrating its inner vibrancy on the palate, this settles in with immaculate juicy cherry. There is buoyancy to the layers of fruit, and powdery tannins lend textural drama. Should be more expressive a year from now. |
|
Chianti Classico |
2022 |
90 |
Row 44 - Cell 4 | This is surely Antinori’s highest volume Chianti Classico with almost one million bottles produced - that’s over 2.5% of the region’s annual production. Gracious and familiar, Pèppoli is like a cheerful postcard from the Chianti hills. It charms with glossy cherry, cinnamon and chopped basil. Accents of leather and smoky toast are properly demure. On the palate, fruit is at the fore: plump plum and blackberry compote meld effortlessly with light, smooth tannins that give just the slightest dusty tug. Finishes juicy. |
|
Chianti Classico |
2022 |
90 |
Row 45 - Cell 4 | In the western township of San Donato in Poggio, Casa Emma’s vineyards extend over 28 hectares on predominantly limestone-rich Alberese soil. Altitudes reach 430 metres. The annata is decidedly red fruited, with cranberry and redcurrant at the fore. Persistent accents of forest growth recall the surrounding woodlands. Midweight yet concentrated, the palate exhibits dense fruit countered by tart acidity and an astringent tug of tannins. Finishes on a stony mineral note. |
|
Chianti Classico |
2022 |
90 |
Row 46 - Cell 4 | The estate’s Chianti Classico vineyards are at the northern limit of the zone, in the warm district of San Casciano. For the annata, a dash of Malvasia Nera is co-fermented with Sangiovese, while the Merlot is vinified separately. Aged in third-passage French oak barriques, it is polished and polite. Aromas are discreet yet attractive, ranging from cedar and garden herbs to cinnamon and nutmeg. The palate is plush with blueberry pie and fresh blackberry flavours, tapering off quickly with a pop of vanilla. Gentle tannins are nestled in. |
|
Chianti Classico |
2022 |
90 |
Row 47 - Cell 4 | Oretta Leonini and her son Bruno Mazzuoli cultivate 10 hectares in the southern reaches of Gaiole, with vineyards next to Badia a Coltibuono and San Giusto a Rentennano. In recent years, they have reduced ageing in wood for the annata bottling with the lion’s share matured in concrete. It is charmingly perfumed with cherry blossom, violet and mint on an earthy backdrop. Sweet, ripe cherry fills the mouth, nuanced by rose and lifted by fresh, cleansing acidity. Soft, elegant tannins make this very drinkable now. |
|
Chianti Classico |
2022 |
90 |
Row 48 - Cell 4 | From Panzano’s upper reaches, Sangió sees a spontaneous fermentation with indigenous yeasts and minimal sulphur dioxide additions – as with all Michael Schmelzer’s wines. It is raised in a combination of concrete and used tonneaux. Discreet yet persistent citrus blossom and brushwood accent underlying rhubarb scents. Streamlined, with slender fruit, it expresses flavours of red currants and red cherry. Dusty tannins grip in this just-ripe annata, and sprightly acidity emphasises their grasp. Floral notes pick up on the finish. |
|
Chianti Classico |
2022 |
90 |
Row 49 - Cell 4 | Silvio Messana captures the spirit of annata beautifully in this 2022, evoking the territory in a ready to drink package. Canaiolo and Colorino are co-fermented and blended with Sangiovese, which sees a modest maceration of eight to 10 days. Ageing is predominantly in cement casks. Understated mint and bramble bush nuances weave through red currants. The palate is midweight and very much raspberry in flavour. Dusty, gentle tannins possess just enough mouth-cleansing astringency. Ultimately, this expresses more earthy minerals than an overt fruitiness – all with an energetic bounce. |
|
Chianti Classico |
2022 |
90 |
Row 50 - Cell 4 | This modestly sized, 11-hectare estate is located in the upper slopes of eastern Castellina abutting the township of Radda. Produced since 1998, the flagship annata bottling ages partially in 500-litre French oak barrels, with the remainder in concrete. It comes progressively into focus with hints of mint and vanilla framing brambly berries. The palate boasts purity and juiciness, with a buoyant core of fleshy red cherry. A sophisticated, powdery texture holds everything in place, and there's a kick of rooibos tea on the finish. |
|
Chianti Classico |
2021 |
90 |
Row 51 - Cell 4 | Established in 2015, this new estate is comprised of three vineyards totalling 17 hectares all within the township of Gaiole. The sole Chianti Classico hails from holdings in the hamlet of Vertine and is raised in concrete. The 2021 lacks a bit of focus on the nose, hinting furtively at dried cherry and forest brush, yet there is lovely purity of fresh and crunchy dark berries on the palate. Thrillingly tart acidity speaks to the wine’s cool high-altitude origins, and a pleasant bitterness further stimulates the appetite. Zealous fruit tannins could do with another year in bottle – or open now and enjoy with duck pappardelle. |
|
Chianti Classico |
2021 |
90 |
Row 52 - Cell 4 | In the hamlet of Panzano, Cafaggio’s 30 hectares of vineyard fan out from the hilltop estate, interspersed with forest. A blend of plots with exposures running from southeast to southwest, the annata ages in 30-hectolitre casks. It is replete with fresh sage, fennel and red brambly berries. Pleasant wood notes remain in the background, lending sweet spice complexity. Midweight but not lacking in depth, this refreshes the palate with lively acidity as pliant tannins slowly dissolve. |
|
Chianti Classico |
2021 |
90 |
Row 53 - Cell 4 | One of five estates owned by the Beretta family, Castello di Radda’s holdings now extend into the neighbouring sector of Gaiole. Local Sangiovese guru, Maurizio Castelli has been consulting for the property since 2018. Despite reported heat spikes in 2021, aromas are direct and persistent. Pure, vibrant red cherry leads off, complemented by raspberry, dry earth and hints of leather. There's some fleshiness on the palate, but ultimately this remains streamlined and crunchy. Flavours of cherry and black tea are surrounded by light, dusty tannins. |
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Chianti Classico |
2021 |
90 |
Row 54 - Cell 4 | Like the region’s consortium, Castello di Verrazzano’s flag-bearing annata was born in 1924. Sangiovese is complemented with a smattering of international and local grapes. Hints of roasted chestnut, cinnamon and forest roots swirl around dark red cherry. Both full and firm, assertive dusty tannins shore up the palate, which exhibits its signature austerity. Stony minerals, tobacco and bitter orange lurk in the background, while zesty acidity lends a mouthwatering finish. |
|
Chianti Classico |
2021 |
90 |
Row 55 - Cell 4 | Dievole’s trio of single vineyards are all located within the district of Vagliagli. While Petrignano and Casanova are to the north, Catignano is found in the warm southern stretch at the limit of the Chianti Classico zone. The 11-hectare site sits on a 370-metre plateau characterized by Alberese, or calcareous marls. Dark red cherry and flint take on evocative Tuscan scents of sundried tomato and basil. Full without being lush, this broadens across the palate with black pepper, sweet earth and mint. Gravelly tannins and crisp acidity are integrated and balanced with the firm fruit. Still a bit wound up. |
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Chianti Classico |
2021 |
90 |
Row 56 - Cell 4 | Purchased in 2017, Frescobaldi’s new estate is located in the township of Gaiole, reaching lofty heights of 600 metres. The 90 hectares of vineyards are spread across three contiguous amphitheatres. Hailing from the largest, the annata is aged in second-passage barriques. It leads with cinnamon-laced cherry and a touch of vanilla. Nuances of tobacco and cocoa lend complexity to the palate. Very polished and sleek, with soft integrated acidity and smooth tannins which give a gentle tug on the finish. |
|
Chianti Classico |
2021 |
90 |
Row 57 - Cell 4 | Owned by the Santa Margherita Group, Lamole di Lamole boasts the largest holdings in the now highly sought after Lamole zone. The Duelame bottling brings together fruit from the estate’s lowest (420 metres) and highest (655 metres) sites. It is floral scented with iris, violet and hints of thyme. Open knit, the palate offers crunchy red currants and cranberry with tart, juicy acidity providing the backbone. Light, fine-grained tannins grip on the finish, which lingers with a pleasant citrussy tang. |
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Chianti Classico |
2020 |
90 |
Row 58 - Cell 4 | Purchased in 2012, Tenuta Cappellina is located in the far south of Chianti Classico in the district of Vagliagli. The privately owned estate works with renowned consulting enologist, Attilio Pagli. Aged in 33-hectolitre Slavonian oak casks, the 2020 annata is a generous mouthful. Lifted aromas of shoe polish, leather and nutmeg lead into the richly fruited dark cherry palate. The tannins are broad but soft in texture and there is a bright beam of acidity that lends freshness, ending with a chewy finish. |
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Chianti Classico |
2019 |
90 |
Row 59 - Cell 4 | A five-hectare southeast-facing plot, Vigneto Boscone is the estate’s oldest, planted in 1988 and reaching up to 380 metres above sea level. While a portion of the fruit is used for the Riserva, the rest is set aside for this unoaked, 13,000-bottle offering. Redolent of the Tuscan landscape, it emanates baked cherry and sweet herbs, with evocative scents of terracotta. Smooth in flow and supple in texture, the palate conveys glossy red cherry studded with sage, tangy acidity and integrated tannins. Drink in the near-term to enjoy its vibrancy. |
|
Chianti Classico |
2022 |
89 |
Row 60 - Cell 4 | Established by Swiss couple, Brigitte and Bruno Widmer in 1981, Brancaia is composed of two properties in the Chianti Classico zone – one in Castellina, the other in Radda. Blending the two, the annata is the estate’s only red that doesn’t see any wood. Nevertheless, there is a waft of vanilla and nutmeg to start, along with a flinty reductive note. The palate brings in strawberry and fleshy red cherry; clean and well-mannered with a cheerful juiciness and discreet tannins. |
|
Chianti Classico |
2022 |
89 |
Row 61 - Cell 4 | Assembled from diverse plots throughout the district of Gaiole, this entry-level annata sees a combination of cement and large oak casks for ageing. It has a dusty, slightly wild character to begin, with damp undergrowth meeting candied red berries and leather. It is medium bodied with rhubarb, bitter orange and pleasantly tart acidity folded in, and smooth tannins which tighten on the finish. Director Michele Contartese reports a loss of 30-35% production in 2022 due to heat stress affecting the estate’s younger vines. |
|
Chianti Classico |
2022 |
89 |
Row 62 - Cell 4 | One of two annata bottlings, Guado Alto hails from a south-facing single vineyard on heavy clay soil. After fermentation in stainless steel, it sees a short passage in 50-hectolitre casks. Candied red berry aromas are offset by dust-tinged sweet herbs. Slightly less confected on the palate, it fills the mouth with fresh, youthful fruit and a gravelly texture. Light tannins and perky bright acidity still make for a rather playful wine which finishes with rhubarb and sour cherry. |
|
Chianti Classico |
2022 |
89 |
Row 63 - Cell 4 | This centuries-old farming estate was revitalised by entrepreneur, Paolo Nocentini who oversaw the conversion to organic cultivation in the mid-1990s. The annata bottling contains a small percentage of Syrah, which lends a plushness to the wine. Attractive black cherry and lilac nuances are joined by a vanilla thread on the palate. Ripe but not overdone or heavy, it remains clean and quenching, its yielding tannins and soft acidity making for a very approachable, easy sip. A bit more style over place, but ultimately likeable. |
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Chianti Classico |
2022 |
89 |
Row 64 - Cell 4 | Neighbouring the Castello di Volpaia and Montevertine estates, Podere Terreno is a former sharecropping farm in northern Radda. Today the small, six-hectare property is owned by the Grilli family. The annata appeals with scents of red cherry, raspberry, sweet earth and warm stone. Vertical and modest in concentration, the brambly fruit palate sports a pleasant tartness and barely-there tannins. It shows its mineral side as it tapers off. Ready to drink. |
|
Chianti Classico |
2022 |
89 |
Row 65 - Cell 4 | In the heart of Gaiole, Rocca di Castagnoli’s extensive holdings straddle a transition from limestone-rich Alberese to sandstone (‘Macigno’). Compiled from plots rising from 340 to 500 metres, the resulting 2022 is an earthy mouthful. Scents of chestnut and forest growth are a bit vague but come into focus on the palate, where they are backed by flavours of cranberry. Full without being fruity, there is a weighty density to the core. The soft tannins are integrated, and the acidity is fresh. |
|
Chianti Classico |
2022 |
89 |
Row 66 - Cell 4 | San Felice’s 150 hectares of vineyards extend across the luminous rolling hills of Castelnuovo Berardenga. For the annata bottling, Sangiovese is joined by a host of other local varieties, primarily Abrusco and Pugnitello with dashes of Malvasia Nera, Ciliegiolo and Mazzese. It exudes macerated cherry and candied red plum with hints of nutmeg and leather. Some flinty hints appear on the midweight, moderately concentrated palate, completed by gentle, short-grained tannins and pleasantly puckering acidity. Everything is in place for satisfying affordable midweek drinking. |
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Chianti Classico |
2022 |
89 |
Row 67 - Cell 4 | In the southern stretches of Chianti Classico, Tolaini boasts the most extraordinary view of Siena as you enter the property. While the initial focus here was initially on Bordeaux varieties, the Tolaini family has been refining its work with Sangiovese. The 2022 requires some aeration to reveal its balsamic herb-tinged blackberry aromas but with air, mint, rosemary and pepper take hold. A mouthfilling yet lively annata, it sports frisky acidity and bright red cherry on the palate. Tannins are just a little rustic and there is a concentrated spiciness on the backend. |
|
Chianti Classico |
2021 |
89 |
Row 68 - Cell 4 | When I visited Paneretta pre-harvest in mid-September of 2021, owner Alberto Albisetti admitted his agitation. After losing 30% of his production to frost, the vines suffered minor damage from hail and were struggling with the ongoing drought. Despite the challenges, the resulting annata is ripe, robust and concentrated, with a sweet-yet-savoury personality. Characteristically perfumed, it radiates mint, medicinal herbs and candied red cherry with a generous dollop of roasted oak. There are plenty of tannins shoring this up: tight and dry, they lend some longevity to the wine and offset the underlying sweet spice accents. |
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Chianti Classico |
2021 |
89 |
Row 69 - Cell 4 | The Bacci family proposes three Chianti Classico – all Sangiovese in purezza – conforming to the denomination’s quality hierarchy. The annata is assembled from a variety of plots spread throughout the estate’s 510-hectare expanse – some on yellow marine sands, others on calcareous clay. Earthy rather than fruity, the 2021 entices with tobacco, green tea and a hint of petrichor. While still fairly wound up, the palate is set against sour red cherry. Steely acidity accentuates grainy, slight rustic tannins, and this needs a hearty braise to absorb. |
|
Chianti Classico |
2021 |
89 |
Row 70 - Cell 4 | The estate’s new single-vineyard project highlights three ‘cru’ aimed at demonstrating Sangiovese’s diverse expression based on microclimate and soil. At 400 metres above sea level, Casanova is the highest and in a relatively cool pocket of Vagliagli. Here, Macigno (aka sandstone) prevails. The resulting wine is delicately fragrant. Sour red cherry and cranberry give way to attractive rose, menthol and white pepper accents that amplify with air. Midweight with slender fruit, the palate echoes those tangy red berries with tart acidity. Light, sandy tannins are somewhat overtaken by a dry, grainy wood sensation. Needs a tomato-based pasta dish. |
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Chianti Classico |
2021 |
89 |
Row 71 - Cell 4 | A much more classic approach than the amphora-aged Cosimo Bojola label, this annata represents half of Tenute Squarcialupi’s production, assembled from the estate’s terraced slopes upwards of 450 metres and raised in a combination of tonneaux and small casks. It leads with dark cherry skin, nutmeg and orange. Hints of violet emerge with air. Streamlined with a slim build, the moderately concentrated palate of bright berries is balanced with light, sandy tannins. |
|
Chianti Classico |
2022 |
88 |
Row 72 - Cell 4 | In the far northeastern corner of Castellina, Buondonno’s various parcels sit across the Pesa river from Panzano and spill into the neighbouring sector of San Donato in Poggio. The annata blends plots characterised by different exposures and age of vines as well as diverse picking dates. Aromas are muddled and tend to earthy nuances of brushwood and chestnut. Hints of red berries lurk in the background. Slender with moderate concentration, the palate echoes cranberry and red currants hemmed in by light, scratchy tannins, finishing with crushed stone and a sappy tang. |
|
Chianti Classico |
2022 |
88 |
Row 73 - Cell 4 | Just west of the town of Castellina, the estate’s 33 hectares of vineyards are interspersed with olive groves and forest. From a blend of southeast-facing plots, the annata is usually quite a fragrant specimen, however this 2022 edition hints furtively at mint and tea leaf. It gains a bit of precision as it sits in the glass, bringing in sunbaked lavender. Sweet vanilla nuances suffuse the bright and breezy palate. Though modest, the tannins are assertively dry on the finish. |
|
Chianti Classico |
2022 |
88 |
Row 74 - Cell 4 | Shy in aromas, the 2022 hints at strawberry and sweet garden herbs. Midweight with lean fruit and a stony sensation, the palate is fresh and lively. Redolent of red currants, it is attractively tart and bright in acidity, framed by light yet grainy tannins. This 450,000-bottle production is a blend of parcels from the Zonin family’s expansive Castello di Albola estate in the township of Radda, matured in 34-hectolitre Slavonian oak casks. |
|
Chianti Classico |
2022 |
88 |
Row 75 - Cell 4 | With vineyards spread across the districts of Pansano, San Donato in Poggio and Castellina, Gagliole crafts Rubiolo from 15- to 20-year-old vines. Refining is in a combination of barriques and stainless steel. Fresh and attractively scented, it opens with sandalwood, rose and red plum. Plump on the entry with a core of confected red berries, the palate is supported by soft acidity and dry, grainy tannins. This uncomplicated, ruby red annata is made for immediate mid-week enjoyment. |
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Chianti Classico |
2022 |
88 |
Row 76 - Cell 4 | Besides adopting organic viticulture over 10 years ago, Ormanni has transitioned to less tilling, uses kaolin clay as a natural sunscreen for the leaves, and is even experimenting with alternatives to sulphur and copper to combat fungal disease. The estate puts out a rather svelte and lifted Chianti Classico in 2022. Effusive scents of violet and lavender percolate from an underpinning of red currants. Earthier tones of brushwood and leather show up on the palate. The fruit is lean, and brisk acidity accentuates some dryness of tannins. |
|
Chianti Classico |
2022 |
88 |
Row 77 - Cell 4 | Arceno’s annata is selected from bigger clusters and berries for greater juice-to-skin ratio. After a four- to five-day cold soak and quick fermentation, the must is pressed immediately to avoid astringency. Ageing is in used barriques. Dark fruit is at the fore: blackberry and black currants are subtly nuanced by balsamic herbs and dusty pebbles. Mouthfilling yet juicy, this cleanses the palate with soft, powdery tannins. A healthy dollop of Merlot knocks off the edges, and warming alcohol rises on the finish. |
|
Chianti Classico |
2021 |
88 |
Row 78 - Cell 4 | A blend of contiguous plots surrounding the castle in Radda, this annata is refined primarily in concrete. Just a small portion – 25-30% – sees a short passage in 20hl casks. The preference at Monterinaldi is to give long ageing in bottle, and the 2021 is the latest release. Discreet and dusty to begin, it opens up with traces of red plum and lavender. While the palate could do with a bit more depth and concentration, this offers vibrant, citrussy acidity and soft, powdery tannins, finishing with an appealing mineral drive. |
|
Chianti Classico |
2021 |
88 |
Row 79 - Cell 4 | Livernano’s Casalvento estate is located in Radda’s upper reaches, nearby Monteraponi. The latest annata sees a noticeable decrease in Merlot compared to previous releases, down from 20% to 10%. It needs a vigorous swirl to release aromas of pepper and strawberry. Becoming tighter and brighter as it sits in the glass, attractive scents of rose also emerge. Very sour red cherry flavours combine with a tartness of acidity and light, soft tannins. This would work with a classic pappa al pomodoro soup. |
|
Chianti Classico |
2020 |
88 |
Row 80 - Cell 4 | Founded in 1995 by Francesco and Paola Bertozzi, Il Barlettaio is situated on the outskirts of the town of Radda at 500 metres above sea level. The couple tends just three hectares of vines with the majority of production going into this annata. Despite the cooling altitude, it shows effusive aromas of ripe strawberry flecked with pepper. A straightforward echo on the palate brings in nuances of chopped garden herbs. Medium in body with soft fruit offset by brisk acidity. Drink soon. |
|
Chianti Classico |
2022 |
87 |
Row 81 - Cell 4 | Third generation grape grower, Federica Capaccioli convinced her family to start producing wine from their tiny one-hectare property in San Casciano starting in 2020. After a spontaneous fermentation in stainless steel, this sees 10 months in French oak tonneaux. It leads with notes of tar and cured leather. Robustly fruited, the palate offers a mix of red and black currants, along with peppery nuances and lively acidity. Light tannins sport an astringent edge. Could do with some spicy grilled sausage. |
|
Chianti Classico |
2022 |
87 |
Row 82 - Cell 4 | This Castellina property is owned by the Calì family, who also count Rocca di Castagnoli in Gaiole within their stable of estates. From south-facing vineyards at 300 metres, the annata is crafted from younger vines up to 35 years old. It leads with notes of leather and shoe polish, while dark red cherry lurks underneath. Quite compact and full, the palate demonstrates a ripeness of fruit, yet the tannins have a slightly green, astringent quality. |
|
Chianti Classico |
2022 |
87 |
Row 83 - Cell 4 | Rocca delle Macìe’s ‘ambassador’ label relies on a touch of Merlot to soften the Sangiovese. The 2022 exhibits broad and straightforward red berry aromas with a dash of garden herbs and struck stone. Spiced candied plum plumps up the palate, and while the tannins are soft and easygoing overall, there is a touch astringency on the finish. Pair with a simple summer meal of grilled chicken and panzanella salad. |
|
Chianti Classico (Riserva) |
2021 |
96 |
Row 84 - Cell 4 | A selection from the estate’s three vineyards – Istine and Casanova dell'Aia in Radda, and Cavarchione in Gaiole – this could be Istine's best Riserva yet. And quality-wise, it stands on equally footing with owner Angela Fronti’s cru bottlings. As it ages for several months longer in wood, Fronti experimented with some whole bunch fruit from Cavarchione to inject freshness and elegance. Sumptuous aromas exude raspberry and dark cherry punctuated by mint and pepper. It reconciles a friskiness of spirit with a velvetiness of mouthfeel, where suede-textured tannins build with a youthful chewiness. An appetising finish of bitter forest roots. |
|
Chianti Classico (Riserva) |
2021 |
96 |
Row 85 - Cell 4 | First produced in 1975, the estate’s Riserva has gone by the name Le Baròncole since 2000, and is made from the smaller berries and bunches picked after the annata selection. The first whiffs reveal an exuberance of prune plum laden with nutmeg, clove, tobacco, and toast along with a savoury, briny note. After this stunning glimpse, it retreats, before ripeness and richness return on the palate. Plum skin and fleshy cherry are wrapped in a chocolatey texture, before steely tannins attack. Firm and vertical, they give sculpted shape to the generous fruit, then zesty acidity sneaks up and salty minerals flood the finish. This will be all the more enjoyable with time. |
|
Chianti Classico (Riserva) |
2021 |
95 |
Row 86 - Cell 4 | From a single vineyard of 50-year-old vines, some even older, Il Campitello sees a spontaneous fermentation with indigenous yeast and a long maceration of 45 days. After ageing in large casks, it is bottled without filtering or fining. The just-bottled 2021 is still brooding, taking time to divulge dark forest berries tinged with tobacco. Hints of crushed stones and fennel join flavours of tangy rhubarb on the palate. The fine-grained tannins are compact and chiselled, cinching in the core with an unwavering grip, and its brisk acidity is deftly embedded. Very sapid. Tuck this away. |
|
Chianti Classico (Riserva) |
2017 |
95 |
Row 87 - Cell 4 | Octogenarian Princess Coralia Pignatelli della Leonessa is never in a rush to put her wines on the market, and has just released this striking 2017 Riserva. It hails from a notoriously hot and arid vintage, possessing the substance and structure that Pignatelli demands of the Riserva category. Unhurried in its reveal, toasted hazelnut, exotic spice, dried flowers and eventually red and black currants trickle out in measured progression. This simmers with intensity yet shuts down in the glass. Upfront structure is composed of compact tannins and steely, linear acidity that slices the palate. Irony minerals and dusty earth poke through the dense, dark fruit core, lingering persistently on the finish. It is reassuring to see the princess’ son, Luigi taking an interest in this venerated estate. |
|
Chianti Classico (Riserva) |
2021 |
94 |
Row 88 - Cell 4 | The backbone of this Riserva comes from the estate’s Capano site, on a sprawling plateau in Gaiole’s warm, southerly hamlet of Monti which is bathed in sun throughout the day. Ripening generally isn’t an issue here, yet even with 2021’s end of season heat, alcohol is deftly bridled, and an underlying linear focus is preserved: there is a certain rigour regulating the lush generosity. Evocative scents of truffle marry magnificently with intense red cherry, cedar and tobacco. Ripe forest berries fill the mouth, meeting chalky minerals and savoury acidity. Sandy-textured tannins expand across the palate with a supple chew. Long and satisfying. |
|
Chianti Classico (Riserva) |
2021 |
94 |
Row 89 - Cell 4 | The Bugialla vineyard was planted in the mid-1970s. Stony shale soil with underpinnings of clay gives sturdy structure, particularly to this bottling, which is crafted from a selection of small berries. The warm south- to southwest exposure coaxes out ample ripeness, yet there is such a prettiness of fragrance in the 2021 that almost belies its power. Plum blossom, dark cherry, cinnamon and mocha tantalise the nose. On the palate, the richness and volume of fruit is in full evidence. Warming but lovely in texture, its confident dry, chalky tannins keep this in check. |
|
Chianti Classico (Riserva) |
2021 |
94 |
Row 90 - Cell 4 | Produced since 1975, Riecine’s Riserva hails from the same vineyard as the Gran Selezione. Whereas the latter comes from a specific plot within it, this is a selection of the remaining parcels. It already exhibits exquisite clarity of wild strawberry, raspberry, coriander and mint blossom, and although it comes across as slender, it has sufficient concentration. It charms with its buoyancy and graceful flow; the structure comes together surreptitiously with a textured tannic tug. Very pretty. |
|
Chianti Classico (Riserva) |
2020 |
94 |
Row 91 - Cell 4 | The estate’s 70 hectares of vineyards are characterised by two diverse soil types: marine sand versus Pietraforte. The Riserva is typically assembled from plots on the latter as the limestone-rich, rocky terrain yields more austere wines in need of age. Opening slowly, this reveals strawberry blossom, coriander and hints of tobacco. The palate is remarkably perfumed, with an undercurrent of rose and pepper running through the dark brambly berries. Firmly structured, ripe tannins wield an assertive grip, and the zesty acidity has a citrussy, blood orange ring that draws out the finish. Lots of life here. |
|
Chianti Classico (Riserva) |
2020 |
94 |
Row 92 - Cell 4 | The Riserva is crafted from the estate’s oldest vines – a single 1.5-hectare parcel planted in 1974. It sees a year longer in wood than the annata, and ageing is in small used barriques and tonneaux. It is a step up in intensity, parading well defined scents of pepper-flecked raspberry, mint and rose. While still light on its feet, the palate is also denser, sporting compact, finely powdered tannins and crisp, racy acidity. What really stand out here, though, are the layers, textures and electric energy. The salty, mineral finish is positively moreish. |
|
Chianti Classico (Riserva) |
2021 |
93 |
Row 93 - Cell 4 | Despite losing 5-6% of production to frost damage in 2021, it was a generous year for the estate. Even the oldest vines, from which the Riserva is selected, yielded enough fruit for a record 10,000-bottle production. Initial nutty, oxidative aromas transition to wafts of sweet herbs ranging from mint and tarragon to fennel and liquorice. Ripe and plentiful, the palate packs in pure raspberry and sour cherry. Concentration and richness of fruit is offset by the tactile chalky texture and minerally undertow. Cedary wood notes still need to integrate but this tightens up on the finish, showing clear direction. |
|
Chianti Classico (Riserva) |
2021 |
93 |
Row 94 - Cell 4 | Selected from southeast- to southwest-facing plots rising from 400 to 600 metres, the harvest in 2021 was prolonged, with Riserva grapes brought in between the end of September and mid-October. The wine emerges with palpable yet attractive wood spice and vanilla notes along with an equal measure of pure red cherry. The palate brings in irony mineral and earthy jasmine nuances. Elegantly weighted and unmistakably sophisticated with smooth tannins, this rings out with tangy acidity. |
|
Chianti Classico (Riserva) |
2021 |
93 |
Row 95 - Cell 4 | The first Riserva release from this young estate, Vigneto Branca was planted in 1972. Fermented with 100% whole bunches, it sees a long maceration of up to 40 days and spends one year in used barriques, followed by another year in larger casks. Opening aromas of cacao and polished wood progress to a striking mix of Mediterranean saffron, sage blossom and forest roots. The palate is fresh and lively yet at the same time offers great depth of brambly berries with spicy herbs. Oodles of soft, grainy texture too. While the tannins are just a bit dry, the acidity makes the mouth water. Just 2,000 bottles produced. |
|
Chianti Classico (Riserva) |
2021 |
93 |
Row 96 - Cell 4 | Local enologist, Maurizio Alongi makes just one wine under his own label. From the 2020 vintage, he prepares a pied de cuve in order to ferment with indigenous yeast. He prefers not to extend macerations too long (maximum 20 days) to preserve aromas and, similarly, ageing in tonneaux is no longer than 12 months. Wafts of vanilla and sweet wood spice are absorbed by scents of wild forest berries. Rather tightly wound, the palate takes over with a self-assured, linear progression. Smouldering accents of baked earth and fennel infuse the raspberry core. Concentrated acidity is piercing and accentuates youthful sandy tannins. I’d give this a few more months to come together. |
|
Chianti Classico (Riserva) |
2020 |
93 |
Row 97 - Cell 4 | Paolo Baldini owns this tiny family estate producing less than 15,000 bottles a year. The five hectares are located in the Montefioralle district on white calcareous soil. Selected from a 40-year-old, southwest-facing plot, the Riserva seduces with cedar, nutmeg and baked strawberry scents. Under its luscious ripeness lies a juicy interior framed by dry, chalky tannins. Fresh black currants pop through the mid-palate, and wood nuances are properly embedded. While modern and stylised, this is savoury, balanced and stimulates the appetite. It should blossom further over the next few years. |
|
Chianti Classico (Riserva) |
2020 |
93 |
Row 98 - Cell 4 | Selected from the estate’s Berardo vineyard, at an average altitude of 350 metres. The 35-hectare site is characterised by calcareous clay loam. The wine exudes seductive nuances of dusty earth, forest undergrowth and tobacco. Expansive and savoury, the dark fruited palate flaunts mellowed black currant and plum suffused with iron and leather. The tannins are grainy yet yielding, and a core of zesty acidity leads to a long, appetising finish. This begs for a hearty mushroom-based pasta dish. |
|
Chianti Classico (Riserva) |
2020 |
93 |
Row 99 - Cell 4 | From a single parcel planted in 1998 on poor soil characterised by a strong presence of calcium carbonate. Scents of red currant are nuanced by pulverised stone and forest growth. Angular in structure with chalky tannins, it is filled out with fleshy red berries, with traces of rosemary and bay leaf. There is an intense, hunger-inducing savouriness to this wine, which was noticeable in the 2020 annata as well. It makes me crave a grilled rare steak! |
|
Chianti Classico (Riserva) |
2020 |
93 |
Row 100 - Cell 4 | From a south-facing 35-hectare amphitheatre on schistous Galestro soil, this Riserva matures in 20- to 80-hectolitre oak casks. As with all Tenuta Perano wines, fermentation is spontaneous with indigenous yeast. The Riserva also sees a portion of whole berries. There is a lovely pressed violet character to begin, then mint, allspice and hints of blackberry follow. The palate picks up on the perfumed floral notes and shows a graciousness of fruit with appetising, savoury acidity. Tannins are suede-like and finish with Sangiovese’s signature chalkiness. |
|
Chianti Classico (Riserva) |
2020 |
93 |
Row 101 - Cell 4 | A selection of the estate’s best parcels, Querciabella’s Riserva is assembled after ageing in a combination of French barriques and tonneaux, maximum 20% new. The 2020 bottling demonstrates the generosity and graciousness of the vintage’s growing season. Attractive pressed flowers, plum and red berries intertwine with subtle wood smoke. The palate brings in garden herbs and mandarin orange. The tannins are confident yet supple and sweet, culminating in a chalky grip. Invigorating and bright, this is quite tempting now – but there's plenty more to reveal. |
|
Chianti Classico (Riserva) |
2019 |
93 |
Row 102 - Cell 4 | Winemaker and owner, Roberto Stucchi does an early harvest for 10% of the fruit from throughout the estate’s 60 hectares, lightening the load for the remaining berries to continue ripening. From the later-picked grapes, the Riserva is a cellar selection of the best barrels. Lovely and lively, the 2019 charms with evocative scents of hibiscus, coriander and orange zest. Midweight with slender, graceful fruit, this offers crunchy red currants and raspberry buoyed by juicy acidity. A fine, understated frame of chalky tannins provides elegant support for the next six to seven years – yet it's also highly enjoyable now. |
|
Chianti Classico (Riserva) |
2021 |
92 |
Row 103 - Cell 4 | A cellar selection from parcels throughout Ricasoli’s 235 hectares in Gaiole, this Riserva gives a panoramic view of the Brolio estate. Each plot is fermented separately in stainless steel, matured in diverse types of wood, and assembled after ageing. The nose is focused and forthcoming, and offers a balanced mix of red cherry and violet with whiffs of Mediterranean herbs, tobacco and vanilla. Fine-grained tannins are firmly stitched around the lush plum core, while juicy acidity carries the bitter orange finish. |
|
Chianti Classico (Riserva) |
2021 |
92 |
Row 104 - Cell 4 | This stalwart Riserva has been produced for 40 years. A blend of place (Radda and Castellina), a mix of grapes (Sangiovese and Merlot), and a combination of ageing vessels (tonneaux for the former and barriques for the latter), it is Brancaia’s signature. Clean and polished, the 2021 opens with mocha-tinged red cherry, cedar and balsam wood. Darker fruit tones with a hint of truffles surface on the palate. The glossy fruit character matches the smooth tannins, while a creamy texture is countered by crunchy acidity. Lovely structure for mid-term ageing. |
|
Chianti Classico (Riserva) |
2021 |
92 |
Row 105 - Cell 4 | Selected from plots that sit between 350 and 500 metres above sea level, this opens with a fresh and lively nose of vivid cherry and nutmeg. Clarity of fruit follows through on the palate where mint and juniper join in. The chewy mouthful exhibits plenty of vigour, supported by chalky, upright tannins and underscored by succulent acidity. It should reveal a bit more depth after another year in bottle. The estate’s long-time enologist is Maurizio Alongi, who makes small quantities under his eponymous label. |
|
Chianti Classico (Riserva) |
2021 |
92 |
Row 106 - Cell 4 | Castello Vicchiomaggio's Riserva pays homage to the Petri family who owned the property in the second half of the 19th century. It sees a healthy dash of Cabernet Sauvignon, which ages in second-passage barriques, whereas the Sangiovese is refined in large French oak casks. Smoky toasted wood notes complement dark red cherry and black currants. Accents of tobacco join in on the palate, where vigorous tannins provide ample chalky texture to the ripe fruit. There is quite a chewy finish, along with pleasant bitter herbs. This needs more time in the bottle. |
|
Chianti Classico (Riserva) |
2021 |
92 |
Row 107 - Cell 4 | Launched with the 2017 vintage, this tiny venture unites agronomist Andrea Toccaceli and enologist Giampaolo Chiettini, who has worked alongside Isole e Olena’s Paolo di Marchi. The savoury nose boasts an intriguing friskiness of spicy herbs, brushwood and rhubarb. On the one hand, it's quite dense and chalky, yet with the supple fruit of San Casciano. This is solidly framed with firm tannins, and subtly nuanced by oak spice. Sapid acidity carries through saline, sundried tomato finish. Just 2,000 bottles produced. |
|
Chianti Classico (Riserva) |
2020 |
92 |
Row 108 - Cell 4 | While Montebuoni is one of the estate’s vineyards, Arturo Pallanti considers it more of a fantasy name, declaring that at the Riserva level, it shouldn’t be considered a ‘cru’. Indeed, it doesn’t demonstrate the profundity of the Bellavista or Casuccia bottlings, however it is a delightful, elegant package that is comfortable in its own unique charms. Pretty perfumes of violet, lavender and orange repeat on the palate, where crunchy acidity underlies cherry skin and raspberry. Hints of smoky wood waft unobtrusively, and soft, plush tannins cleanse the mouth. It finishes with a burst of spiced dark plum. |
|
Chianti Classico (Riserva) |
2020 |
92 |
Row 109 - Cell 4 | Lareale is a blend of two vineyards: on Lamole’s classic Macigno (sandstone) soil, Il Prato includes a portion of bush vines planted in 1945, whereas Le Masse is a steep, stony, terraced site soaring upwards from 600 metres. The merger makes for a mineral-inflected mouthful. It's a suitable step up in depth and structure for its category, while still demonstrating Lamole’s slender frame. Flint and juniper notes lead, and the vintage’s warmth gives a generosity to the red berry palate. Nuanced by alpine herbs and stones, its sandy-textured tannins give traction. |
|
Chianti Classico (Riserva) |
2020 |
92 |
Row 110 - Cell 4 | Owner Sofia Ruhne singles out her Bonille vineyard for the estate’s Riserva. The calcareous-rich, stony clay soil yields wine with the necessary structure for ageing. Including 25-year-old plantings of Cabernet Sauvignon and Colorino, it is her only Chianti Classico that isn’t 100% Sangiovese. An animated nose of tarragon, plum and allspice is matched by an exuberance of fruit on the palate. The pure blackberry and cherry core is shored up by grippy yet ripe tannins, cheerfully bright acidity, and a snappy juniper finish. |
|
Chianti Classico (Riserva) |
2020 |
92 |
Row 111 - Cell 4 | From Tregole’s lowest vineyard (still a lofty 500 metres), planted in 1982 and divided into two plots – one facing east, the other looking south. As it always gives the most powerful wine, owner Sophie Conte ages it in used barriques inherited from her father. Hints of wood spice mingle with cocoa and eucalyptus. Still tightly wound, it wields a steely backbone, and fleshy dark plum and cherry cling to grippy, confident tannins which are layered and powdery in texture. Finishes on a distinct green tea note. |
|
Chianti Classico (Riserva) |
2021 |
91 |
Row 112 - Cell 4 | Castagnoli's Riserva is a selection of plots which varies according to vintage. Vinified separately, each sees a spontaneous fermentation with indigenous yeasts and includes a portion of whole berries. Intense ripeness and low yields are manifest in this uber-concentrated red, which opens with scents of prune, leather and chocolate. The palate demonstrates fresher fruit tones, albeit still dense and sun-kissed. Layers of cherry absorb earthy tannins and sweet oak nuances. Brightness of acidity is the crucial ingredient. |
|
Chianti Classico (Riserva) |
2021 |
91 |
Row 113 - Cell 4 | A vineyard selection of superior plots, Castellare’s Riserva is matured in a combination of new and used barriques. Despite further ageing in the bottle before release, it is still wrapped up in its vanilla-led, sweet oak casing. Wood nuances eventually give way to leather and macerated cherry. The fruit is glossy and concentrated yet pure, and juicy acidity helps brighten the wine while ripe, polished tannins yield generously. Give this another year to further digest its oak. |
|
Chianti Classico (Riserva) |
2020 |
91 |
Row 114 - Cell 4 | While Cacchiano’s annata hails from plants under 20, this Riserva is crafted from 20- to 50-year-old vines. A dash of Colorino is co-fermented with the Sangiovese, and a pinch of Malvasia Nera is blended after ageing. Classic dusty aromas open up to leather, sage blossom and mint chocolate. This is shapely in form, though not weighty, its layered, powdery tannins dispersed across the palate imparting a satisfying texture. Concentrated acidity lends a citrussy orange tang. |
|
Chianti Classico (Riserva) |
2020 |
91 |
Row 115 - Cell 4 | Vicky Schmitt-Vitali and her husband, Guido have divided their holdings into small 0.25- to one-hectare parcels. They vinify each separately, selecting those hailing from higher elevations (up to 450 metres) for the Riserva. Aged in 400- to 500-litre barrels, of which 20% are new, this demonstrates the clean, polished signature of the estate. Accents of truffle and porcini overlay the dark cherry and blackberry foundation. Warming alcohol pokes through but there are sufficient earthy charms to deflect. Despite the firm and grainy tannins, this is already accessible. |
|
Chianti Classico (Riserva) |
2021 |
90 |
Row 116 - Cell 4 | The backbone of the estate’s Riserva comes from La Porta vineyard, from Sangiovese planted between 1998 and 2000. Cabernet Sauvignon grown at an altitude of 485 metres is blended in for mid-palate structure. Matured in second- and third-passage barriques, the 2021 displays intense blackcurrant nuanced by spicy green herbs. The palate is well padded with red and black currants, and accents of espresso and mint enhance it. The tannins have a slightly dusty, gravelly character yet remain refined. Well mannered and affable. |
|
Chianti Classico (Riserva) |
2019 |
90 |
Row 117 - Cell 4 | A bridge between the annata and Gran Selezione, the estate’s Riserva is a selected blend from the two distinct plots – Selvale and Corno – that respectively furnish the two. Refinement in French oak tonneaux and Slavonian oak casks is followed by long ageing in bottle before release. Tertiary, savoury elements are at the fore with aromas of smoked meat, roasted coffee, toasted hazelnut and cured leather. Sufficiently padded, the palate brings in spiced cherry compote encased in chewy, grainy tannins. Perhaps a bit wood heavy, but Radda’s feisty acidity endures. |
|
Chianti Classico (Gran Selezione) |
2020 |
98 |
Row 118 - Cell 4 | A selection of three parcels within this 23ha site. While Sangiovese is its soul, 50-year-old Malvasia Nera is intrinsic to Bellavista’s expression, lending nuance and tempering austerity. The two are blended after malolactic fermentation before refinement in French oak barriques. A tempting procession of coffee, incense, sweet herbs, moist earth and truffle emerges with each swirl. The palate is a thrilling and energetic tug-of-war with dark, lush fruit set against chiselled tannins. A gravelly texture adds to the drama and intense violet pierces the finish. Generous yet still tight. |
|
Chianti Classico (Gran Selezione) |
2019 |
98 |
Row 119 - Cell 4 | The estate’s first foray into the Gran Selezione category hails from a new estate vineyard planted in 2015 with Sangiovese cuttings from Isole e Olena. The stony one-hectare, south-facing site sits on Alberese soil at 560 metres above sea level. Aromas are vivid and arresting, with fragrant Ginestra and sun-baked stone infusing well delineated cherry and strawberry. While decidedly commanding, it manages to balance density with agility and admirable finesse of tannins. Racy acidity melds with nuances of blood orange while wet soil lends a grounding element. It flows confidently to the finish, where mint mingles with those gorgeous florals. Bravo! |
|
Chianti Classico (Gran Selezione Panzano) |
2021 |
97 |
Row 120 - Cell 4 | The Sorbo vineyard sits just below the winery on schistous Galestro soil between 400 and 450 metres and boasts 50- to 60-year-old vines. Owner Giovanni Manetti says it is the same team that has harvested this plot for years. The 2021 spent 15 months in barriques followed by nine in large casks, and unfurls leisurely from a smoky incense overlay through dusty, sunbaked earth to black cherry. Virile and sturdy, the palate packs in dense fruit, glimpses of clove and cedar, and pops with blackcurrant purity. A clayey, terracotta-like texture accompanies generous chewy tannins. Plenty here for a long rest in the cellar. |
|
Chianti Classico (Gran Selezione) |
2019 |
97 |
Row 121 - Cell 4 | The estate’s third release, this Gran Selezione is among the top wines from Chianti Classico’s 2019 vintage. Just 4,000 bottles were produced from Querciabella’s site above 500 metres on the steep, stony slope of the Ruffoli hill. Coy to begin with, it hints at coffee, smoke and oily herbs such as grilled rosemary and sage. The palate is tight and sinewy, showing cranberry and red currants punctuated by inner-mouth perfumes of lilac and a crushed stone sensation. Decisive, linear tannins are carved with precision and accentuated by zesty acidity. I was lucky enough to try this on a few separate occasions and it just gets better with each sip. |
|
Chianti Classico (Gran Selezione Gaiole) |
2021 |
96 |
Row 122 - Cell 4 | In the northern reaches of the Gaiole township, Vigna Cavarchione boasts a stony soil of limestone-rich schistous shale. At over 400 metres above sea level, it tilts towards the southeast. The plushest and fullest of Istine’s Gran Selezione triad, this is already gorgeously perfumed, with intense grilled fennel, tarragon and coriander. Wild, brambly berries permeate the palate, demonstrating both concentration and suppleness. Sweet earth and lilac accents lie in wait, the fluidity propelled by succulent acidity while pliant, generous tannins lend textural complexity. |
|
Chianti Classico (Gran Selezione Gaiole) |
2021 |
96 |
Row 123 - Cell 4 | The Gittori vineyard is on a terraced slope reaching 500 metres above sea level – the estate's highest plot which boasts 50-year-old vines. This Gran Selezione enchants with heady scents of liquorice, allspice, mint blossom and jasmine. It is sumptuous and laden with concentrated raspberry, cherry skins and accents evocative of forest growth. There are no hard edges as dense layers of suede-like tannins meld seamlessly, and bright acidity keeps it buoyant. Still wrapped up with youthful intensity, this should unravel slowly to reveal greater depths and detail as it ages. |
|
Chianti Classico (Gran Selezione Panzano) |
2021 |
96 |
Row 124 - Cell 4 | San Leolino is a five-hectare terraced vineyard between 450 and 500 metres with a southeast to southwest exposition. A small portion of the vines are 50 years old, while the remaining were planted 20 years ago with a regional clone and a selection from Fontodi’s Flaccianello site. With an intense focus on floral and mineral aspects, this is a compelling synthesis of lavender, dried rose, sunbaked stone and iron, sinewy rather than brawny in muscles, but formidable nonetheless. Concentrated, crunchy dark fruit is stitched with emphatically chalky tannins, framed by stylish wood notes. Vertical and direct. |
|
Chianti Classico (Gran Selezione Radda) |
2021 |
96 |
Row 125 - Cell 4 | As of the 2021 vintage, all three of Istine’s cru bottlings have been elevated to Gran Selezione and see an additional three months in wood, for a total of 15 months. From the estate’s home vineyard, high up in Radda, this radiates its cool, fresh locale – from the lightness and brightness of the ruby hue to the crystalline aromas and finely sculpted frame. Unhindered fragrances of rose, red cherry, currant blossom and orange soar from the glass. Svelte yet not lean, this rings out persistently with red berry purity. Stony minerals intertwine with energising acidity and crunchy tannins cleanse the mouth, leaving a trail of mint blossom and spicy juniper. |
|
Chianti Classico (Gran Selezione) |
2020 |
96 |
Row 126 - Cell 4 | The estate’s second cru, Casuccia was born in 1985 – seven years after Bellavista. It is slightly lower in altitude than the latter and tilts towards the west rather than the east. The presence of Merlot also makes a crucial difference. Ripe blue plum and blackberry are embedded with smoke and toasty oak. While this is rounder than Bellavista there is no lack of structure: the dense fruit core is well padded with fleshy, broad tannins flexing assertive muscle. Bay leaf and tobacco impart a savoury edge, pushed by underlying stony minerals. |
|
Chianti Classico (Gran Selezione) |
2019 |
96 |
Row 127 - Cell 4 | Il Poggio has grown beyond its original two hectares planted in 1962 and now extends over 5.2ha – but its DNA remains the same. A smidgin of Canaiolo Nero is interplanted with 40-year-old Sangiovese, and the two are co-fermented, while the Colorino is picked and vinified separately. A beautiful showing in 2019, this emerges steadily from the glass with flinty minerals and white pepper first, then arbutus bush and cherry followed by orange and hyacinth. It is elegantly weighted with a generosity of tangy cranberry and ripe strawberry seeping across the palate in a steady textural flow. Stony tannins and steely acidity lend tension. Tarragon lingers. |
|
Chianti Classico (Gran Selezione) |
2019 |
96 |
Row 128 - Cell 4 | Selected from the estate’s Campo ai Peri vineyard, this bottling is dedicated to owner Valeria Viganò's father, Luigi. It has been produced since 2012 as a Riserva and was elevated to Gran Selezione with the 2016 vintage. Becoming scents of tarragon, jasmine and camomile divulge slowly against a backdrop of pulverised stone. The palate is youthful, demonstrating sinewy substance. It falls steadily into place and lands with a mineral drive. Distinct accents of bitter orange play off the firm, chiselled tannins, and there's no lack of brisk acidity here. |
|
Chianti Classico (Gran Selezione) |
2019 |
96 |
Row 129 - Cell 4 | Ipsus is a standalone Gran Selezione launched with the 2015 vintage. It hails from the Mazzei family’s Il Caggio estate on Castellina’s intermediary slopes, where vineyards flank the ridge, surrounded by forest. Schistous clay soil boasts significant limestone underpinnings. The dark, ripe fruit is hedonistic in character and profusely scented with exotic herbs and wildflowers. Mouthfilling though not heavy, this encapsulates the munificence of the Chianti Classico region. Plush, suede-textured tannins wrap seductively around the plum and cherry-rich core. The acidity is fresh and luscious, and on the finish tobacco and fennel ride a long savoury, salty wave. |
|
Chianti Classico (Gran Selezione Gaiole) |
2021 |
95 |
Row 130 - Cell 4 | The last of Ricasoli's vineyards to be picked, Ceniprimo is located on an ancient fluvial terrace of sand and silt. At 300 metres above sea level, it faces west to southwest. As with all three of Ricasoli’s cru bottlings, this is fermented with selected yeasts indigenous to the Brolio estate, and ages in 500-litre tonneaux of which 30% are new. Medicinal herbs and vanilla weave through dark red cherry. The ripe, dense, fleshy fruit is coated with ample dusty tannins, while zesty, citrussy acidity gives a refreshing, countering lift. It leaves behind resounding suggestions of leather, chinotto and earthy forest roots, and deserves cellaring. |
|
Chianti Classico (Gran Selezione) |
2019 |
95 |
Row 131 - Cell 4 | This small estate in Lamole counts eight distinct vineyards totalling eight hectares. From these, owner Susanna Grassi crafts six Chianti Classico bottlings. The Gran Selezione hails from the oldest plot of 35- and 50-year-old plantings. From a veil of grilled chestnut and brushwood, scented violet and juniper emerge. The palate is delightfully midweight with fitting density and a graceful flow. It offers a persistent mouthful of red berries, strawberry blossom and stony minerals. Firm yet elegant and fine-boned with mouth-cleansing acidity, this is just lovely. |
|
Chianti Classico (Gran Selezione Gaiole) |
2021 |
94 |
Row 132 - Cell 4 | One of three 100% Sangiovese cru bottlings from the estate, Colledilà has been produced since the 2009 vintage. Reaching 380 metres, it flanks a ridge incorporating exposures to the southeast and southwest. The low yielding, limestone-rich plot was harvested 26-27 September. From a dusty, stony backdrop, evocative scents of jasmine, fennel and thyme blossom emerge. The palate is concentrated, with dark cherry and blackberry girdled by muscular tannins, very chalky in texture. Then it bursts with bright acidity on the finish. Still tight, with some wood notes to digest. |
|
Chianti Classico (Gran Selezione Radda) |
2021 |
94 |
Row 133 - Cell 4 | Istine’s three single-vineyard Gran Selezione see similar vinification: spontaneous fermentation in concrete tanks is followed by submerged cap maceration for approximately 45 days and ageing in Slavonian oak casks. It is the terroir that makes the difference between the three wines. Facing south at 500 metres, Casanova dell’Aia sits on clay-rich limestone marls. It is typically sturdier than its Radda sibling, Vigna Istine, and in 2021 is the most austere of the trio. Cloaked in autumnal scents of chestnut, liquorice root and brushwood it only hints at brighter raspberry and bergamot notes. Nevertheless, this is pure and focussed. Compact chalky tannins and laser-beam vertical acidity exclaim, ‘wait!’ |
|
Chianti Classico (Gran Selezione) |
2020 |
94 |
Row 134 - Cell 4 | One of three estate crus, Casanova is a south- to southeast-facing plot at 480 metres. It was replanted in 2001 with cuttings from 60-year-old vines representing a rich diversity of old Sangiovese clones. The 2020 is coy to begin with. It flits with mocha, grilled oily herbs and dusty earth. Full and velvety, the palate offers brambly forest berries that pop with pleasantly tart acidity. Oak notes are well incorporated, and it's a neat and polished package, maintaining everything in its place. Resolute, slightly austere tannins take hold on the finish. |
|
Chianti Classico (Gran Selezione) |
2020 |
94 |
Row 135 - Cell 4 | Replanted in 2004, Vigna Bastignano boasts a massal selection of the property’s old Sangiovese clones. The bush vines sit on wide, well exposed terraced rows propped up by old stone walls following the contours of the slope. It is the most elegant of the estate’s Gran Selezione trio. Bright notes of grenadine, liquorice and violet engage, while sweet spice oak nuances are subtly entrenched. The ripeness and graciousness of fruit is balanced by a bracing backbone, and velvety tannins provide a snug grip. Almost ready to drink but should evolve slowly. |
|
Chianti Classico (Gran Selezione) |
2020 |
94 |
Row 136 - Cell 4 | South facing on sandy loam soil, the Fornace vineyard is the least aromatically expressive of Villa Calcinaia’s three Gran Selezione – at least for the time being. It is also the most savoury in profile. Scents of dusty, sunbaked herbs allow a hint of cured meat to poke through. The palate eases into a comfortable and familiar dark red cherry note nuanced by liquorice. Linear in form, it is sinewy rather than rich, its powdery tannins providing a secure frame and integrated acidity cleansing the mouth. |
|
Chianti Classico (Gran Selezione) |
2020 |
94 |
Row 137 - Cell 4 | The three-hectare Rialzi vineyard takes its names from the terraced rows that tilt to the southwest. On calcareous Alberese soil at almost 550 metres above sea level, it is typically the last of Perano’s parcels to be picked – in mid-October. Refined in 100% new barriques, this brings together toasty cedar with mint, violet and a soupçon of chocolate. Sweet wild berries flesh out the palate, while the tannins are long, firm and amplified by the framing, sophisticated wood. Neatly packaged, genteel and approachable. |
|
Chianti Classico (Gran Selezione) |
2019 |
94 |
Row 138 - Cell 4 | Crafted from the Campo alla Fame vineyard planted in the early 1960s, Ormanni’s Gran Selezione is referred to as the estate’s ‘historic label’. It matures in French oak barriques, mostly used. Demonstrating excellent balance and poised ripeness, it leads with alluring aromas of persimmon, plum and allspice. As mouthfilling and serious as it is nimble and playful, a moreish succulence underlies brambly, forest berries while firm, chalky tannins give tension and chew. The finish lingers with mint and spice. Super-satisfying. |
|
Chianti Classico (Gran Selezione Castellina) |
2021 |
93 |
Row 139 - Cell 4 | Totalling 60,000 bottles, this represents the most plentiful of Castello Fonterutoli’s UGA-specific Gran Selezione bottlings. Selected from the estate’s top parcels in Castellina’s upper slopes on limestone-rich stony soil, the 2021 is a delightful tangle of wild forest herbs and cedar with liquorice and sarsaparilla roots. The fruit is pure with a satisfying, supple chew: layers of concentrated dark cherry are hemmed in by firm, sturdy tannins. Self-assured in personality and balanced in its elements, it just needs another year or two for everything to fully mesh. |
|
Chianti Classico (Gran Selezione Castelnuovo Berardenga) |
2021 |
93 |
Row 140 - Cell 4 | The inaugural release of Campolupi comes from a newly leased property that neighbours Tenuta di Arceno’s extensive holdings. It reaches 550 metres above sea level on predominantly sandstone soil. A smattering of 15-year-old Colorino vines are harvest alongside Sangiovese and the two are co-fermented. Attractive whiffs of cocoa, vanilla and wood spice drape decorously over blackberry and black cherry. The fruit is sweeter and plusher than the Strada al Sasso bottling, melding seamlessly into pliant, yielding tannins, with some savoury black tea to finish. Polished without sacrificing personality, this evokes Tuscan’s sunlit hills. |
|
Chianti Classico (Gran Selezione Gaiole) |
2021 |
93 |
Row 141 - Cell 4 | Introduced with the 2015 vintage, Roncicone is an 11-hectare site at 320 metres above sea level. With marine origins, the sandy clay soil boasts a strong presence of sea fossils and smooth, rounded stones. It is typically the first of Ricasoli’s single vineyards to be harvested. Gentle and pretty in its fragrances, this is decidedly red-fruited. It offers currants and raspberry with a suggestion of porcini and espresso. It feels mid-weight yet fills the mouth, its long, fine, sandy tannins making for an elegant flow. Mineral-tinged with tangy acidity, this demonstrates the succulent character of Sangiovese. |
|
Chianti Classico (Gran Selezione Panzano) |
2021 |
93 |
Row 142 - Cell 4 | While spring frost reduced Il Molino di Grace’s yields by 20% in 2021, it spared the estate’s southwest-facing slope, where vines over 50 years old are earmarked for this Gran Selezione. It leads with oak inflections of roasted coffee and exotic spice atop sage and singed rosemary. Sturdily built and full bodied, the palate packs ample power with its dense, pure fruit and enthusiastically extracted, chunky tannins. Lustrous black cherry laced with bitter chocolate and balsamic herbs simmers at the core. A hefty mouthful that manages to balance all its substantial components. |
|
Chianti Classico (Gran Selezione Radda) |
2021 |
93 |
Row 143 - Cell 4 | Produced since 1980 – first as a Vino da Tavola, then a Riserva, and now a Gran Selezione – Coltassala hails from a single vineyard. Despite ongoing replanting, it remains true to its original mix of Sangiovese and Mammolo. The just-bottled 2021 is its usual intense self, with wood-driven notes currently at the fore. Charry oak, vanilla, tobacco and mint surge from the glass, and the palate is equally boisterous. Chocolatey textures collide with resolute, vertical tannins, and dark, concentrated fruit lurks underneath. A particularly virile, powerful rendition that demands time to tame and hopefully show Radda’s brighter side. |
|
Chianti Classico (Gran Selezione) |
2020 |
93 |
Row 144 - Cell 4 | At the eastern limit of Castellina, bordering Radda, Capraia’s two-hectare Casanuova di Pietrafitta vineyard climbs to 550 metres. Facing northeast, the low yielding 50-year-old vines bear approximately one kilogram per plant. Delicate scents of white blossom are flecked with black pepper and flint. This is linear and relatively slim in build yet offers worthy depth of red cherry and currants tangled with crushed herbs. Crisp acidity propels a stony mineral sensation, and fine, chalky tannins assert their grip. Perhaps just a touch dry. |
|
Chianti Classico (Gran Selezione) |
2020 |
93 |
Row 145 - Cell 4 | Produced since 2010, San Lorenzo is Ama’s big brother, crafted from older, less vigorous vines throughout the estate’s historic vineyards. Its role is to give a panoramic expression of the vintage at this high altitude property in Gaiole. A fragrant mix of dusty Mediterranean vegetation ranges from tarragon and fennel to camomile and lavender. Accents of spicy oak seep through to the palate, where plush plum flecked with cocoa melds into supple, velvety tannins. The acidity has a citrussy ring, and sneaky, salty minerals lend an additional tang. This midweight beauty is gracious and engaging now. |
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Chianti Classico (Gran Selezione) |
2020 |
93 |
Row 146 - Cell 4 | A selection from the estate’s best and oldest plots, Il Millennio has only been made in a handful of vintages since it was introduced in 2007 – the last release was 2015. This 2020 demonstrates more restraint and poise than previous versions without sacrificing expression. Fragrances of tarragon and thyme are evocatively Mediterranean, and the well-weighted palate brings in dark currants and cocoa on a savoury, earthy backdrop. Robust tannins are still tight but promising. |
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Chianti Classico (Gran Selezione) |
2020 |
93 |
Row 147 - Cell 4 | Produced since 2016, the single-vineyard Le Bolle bottling was born as a more structured, 100% Sangiovese alternative to the estate’s well established La Prima label. It is a robust, firm and commanding expression. Oak-derived vanilla scents lead, then mint and fennel infuse black raspberry. Dry, chalky tannins shore up the concentrated palate – there is lots to chew on here. A promising earthy, truffle hint pokes through on the finish. A mere 1,300 bottles produced in 2020. |
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Chianti Classico (Gran Selezione) |
2020 |
93 |
Row 148 - Cell 4 | Reaching almost 420 metres above sea level, Colonia sits at the summit of the Rancia hill, where the 2.6-hectare vineyard is surrounded by forest. Made from a selection of the healthiest grapes and aged in new French oak barriques, the 2020 is generous in its aromas of sun-kissed plum, petrichor, tobacco and espresso beans. Cedary oak nuances pervade the palate, where there's an overall restraint to the fruit. This is elegantly weighted with flecks of dusty earth, a gravelly crunch and citrussy acidity. Grainy wood tannins dry the finish. |
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Chianti Classico (Gran Selezione) |
2020 |
93 |
Row 149 - Cell 4 | This modestly sized estate with seven hectares of vines is in a cool, tight valley in the northern hills of Gaiole. Facing southwest, the vineyards rise steeply to 400 metres on limestone-rich schistous soil. Selected from the smallest berries, the Gran Selezione sees just a hint of new oak, which is well embedded and allows for lovely purity of raspberry and red cherry to ring out. The midweight palate emphasises finesse over power, flowing elegantly propelled by bright acidity and aligned with fine, chalky tannins. Fragrant garden herbs waft throughout. While this might not be the longest-lived Gran Selezione, it is incredibly pretty and seamlessly balanced. |
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Chianti Classico (Gran Selezione) |
2020 |
93 |
Row 150 - Cell 4 | Selected from an 8.5ha vineyard which encircles the farmhouse, Casasilia has morphed over the years to its current Sangiovese-in-purezza package. Oak use has also become more judicious and wood notes are neatly embedded in the 2020 release. Gregarious and expressive, it boasts a dense, rich nose of forest cherry and plum infused with allspice and peppermint. Surprisingly spacious and supple on the palate, the fleshy core is countered by crunchy acidity and chewy tannins. Notes of bitter roots add complexity. Quite mouth cleansing. |
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Chianti Classico (Gran Selezione) |
2020 |
93 |
Row 151 - Cell 4 | Produced since 2010, A Sofia represents the passage to the new generation – it was the year that Sofia Ruhne started working at her parent’s estate, and she wanted to make a 100% Sangiovese exclusively from estate fruit, which has since become the direction at Terreno. From 40-year-old vines, it boasts a vibrantly perfumed nose of red cherry, allspice, fennel and rose. There is a plush ripeness and lovely purity to the fruit, which takes on darker spiced cherry tones. Generous but not heavy, it is lifted by citrussy acidity and elegantly framed with fine, sandy tannins. |
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Chianti Classico (Gran Selezione) |
2020 |
93 |
Row 152 - Cell 4 | The Sillano vineyard sits high above the town of Montefioralle, characterised by calcareous sandstone known locally as Pietraforte. The coolest of Terreno’s sites, it is usually the last to be harvested. In 2020, the grapes were picked on 8 October – three days after the A Sofia selection in Greve. Furtive opening notes suggest white blossoms and, above all, flinty minerals. Slim in build and medium in weight, the palate brings together crunchy cranberry and fleshy red plum edged by pliant tannins. Streamlined and racy in acidity, this finishes with a savoury, saline twist. |
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Chianti Classico (Gran Selezione) |
2019 |
93 |
Row 153 - Cell 4 | With a healthy dose of Cabernet Sauvignon and ageing in barriques, this single-vineyard bottling was born in the mid-'80s. It is recognisable in style but well executed, with mint and cedar infusing blackberry and plum. Muscular in build, it sports forceful, tenacious tannins that will require time to loosen up. Underneath, the fruit is pure and crunchy and it finishes firm. While it is a less overtly territorial expression than the Solatìo, in this 2019 vintage it demonstrates greater concentration, structure and ageing ability – all of which one associates with the Gran Selezione category. |
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Chianti Classico (Gran Selezione Castellina) |
2021 |
92 |
Row 154 - Cell 4 | From the best plot of Brancaia’s Castellina estate. After necessary replanting, the vines are now over 20 years old and considered mature enough to stand alone as a Gran Selezione. The third release, this 2021 is lifted in aromas of violet and allspice before a lashing of mocha takes over. Quite densely packed, the palate is disguised by a lovely purity of red cherry intertwined with seductive moist earth and underbrush. The tannins are still a bit raw and gritty but there is a promising vibrant crunch at its core. Give this another year for those wood notes to integrate. |
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Chianti Classico (Gran Selezione Castelnuovo Berardenga) |
2021 |
92 |
Row 155 - Cell 4 | Selected from a north-facing, two-hectare plot planted between 1998 and 2001, this animated Gran Selezione is less reductive than past examples. The estate has introduced Tuscan wood casks with a more open grain said to lend perfume. Indeed, penetrating lavender essence and rosemary suffuses black currant. Robust and dense, the palate continues in that dark berry vein, bringing in accents of bay leaf and mint. Compact but sweet tannins tug at the teeth with a decisive chew, and the acidity is equally concentrated; best to wait a couple of years. |
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Chianti Classico (Gran Selezione Greve) |
2021 |
92 |
Row 156 - Cell 4 | Castello di Querceto produces two single-vineyard Gran Selezione from its 70-hectare expanse in Greve. Replanted in 1993, Il Picchio reaches 450 metres above sea level and is a relatively cool site surrounded by forest, with an east to southeast exposure. Nevertheless, the warm growing season confers a plushness and generosity to the 2021 release. Still very youthful, even reductive, it pushes forth intense blackberry subtly accented by leather and grilled rosemary. Chock full, the weighty palate remains fresh, echoing the exuberance of the nose. Fleshy blue plum is enfolded in pliant, chewy tannins, and it finishes with cedar and chocolate. |
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Chianti Classico (Gran Selezione Radda) |
2021 |
92 |
Row 157 - Cell 4 | This six-hectare site in Radda was planted over 20 years ago with a blend of three Sangiovese clones, plus three selected from the estate’s historic plantings. The heady altitude is countered by a warm southeast to southwest exposure. Toasty oak notes lead, with scents of smoke, flint and vanilla adding complexity to the candied red cherry and cranberry. It is elegantly angular in structure with crisp, slender fruit to match and cool, bracing acidity, finishing with a citrussy orange charge. Rather tightly buttoned up at the moment. |
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Chianti Classico (Gran Selezione) |
2021 |
92 |
Row 158 - Cell 4 | Produced since 2006, Strada al Sasso hails from a single vineyard planted in 1998 near the hamlet of San Gusmè; a warm, west-facing, windy site on rocky soil producing deeply coloured Sangiovese. Roasted coffee permeates the nose, eventually ceding to fennel and tarragon. This is robust and densely packed, with dark plum accented by cinnamon and allspice. Ample structure of velvety tannins lends a creamy mouthfeel, and hints of stone linger on the finish. Carries its girth and alcohol well. |
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Chianti Classico (Gran Selezione) |
2020 |
92 |
Row 159 - Cell 4 | The estate’s top wine, Salita was bottled as an IGT prior to the 2020 vintage. It is crafted from bush vine-trained Sangiovese on the property’s 15 highest stone terraces, reaching 450 metres above sea level. Exuding profound ripeness, the nose gushes with dried plum, chocolate and cherry pie. It's equally rich on the palate, where abundant sweet spice and cedar nuances are evocative of barrique ageing. While more distinctive of style than place it nevertheless exhibits admirable purity of fruit – although the alcohol does sneak up in this hefty offering. |
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Chianti Classico (Gran Selezione) |
2020 |
92 |
Row 160 - Cell 4 | In the district of Radda, Il Solatio is a tiny, isolated parcel completely dislocated from the rest of Albola’s ample vineyard holdings. The luminous, southeast-facing plot reaches heady heights of 580 metres and sits on rocky limestone soil. Discreet, dusty floral aromas gain precision and persistence, expressing cherry blossom, rose and red currants as this opens. Midweight and elegant in frame with brisk stimulating acidity, this presents as if from a cool vintage. Fine-grained tannins edge around lacy red forest fruit. Linear, with a sweet spice finish. |
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Chianti Classico (Gran Selezione) |
2020 |
92 |
Row 161 - Cell 4 | While Le Bolle is a particularly stony site, the 2.2-hectare La Prima vineyard is characterised by heavier clay. Blended with Merlot (although this will be the last vintage as such) and barrique-aged, it is a round and flattering wine with soft, plush fruit. Ample powdery tannins cling to the edges but are pliant and gracious in temperament. Coffee, cedar and sweet spice accent dark plum, and there's a fresh mineral tang on the finish. |
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Chianti Classico (Gran Selezione) |
2020 |
92 |
Row 162 - Cell 4 | Ferrante Capponi planted the two-hectare Contessa Luisa vineyard in 1959, dedicating it to his mother, Luisa Vonwiller. Today, ailing vines are replaced as needed but it still boasts many of the original plantings. The 2020 has a rousingly wild, untamed character. Scents of baked earth and iron are tangled with profuse florals and plum. Robust and concentrated, this unabashedly conveys its warm westerly aspect. The tannins are upfront and assertively dry without being astringent. Appetising mineral notes swirl in the background, and it all comes into dignified balance. |
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Chianti Classico (Gran Selezione) |
2020 |
92 |
Row 163 - Cell 4 | Translated as ‘Island of the Falcons’, this 20-hectare property perched in Panzano’s upper reaches has a distinct ‘in the middle of nowhere’ feel, hemmed in by forest with 4.5 hectares of vines opening up into a tight valley. Emanuele Graetz’ fourth release, the 2020 is still a bit closed in on itself to begin, but coaxing brings out black plum, tobacco and chestnut. The palate is amply textured with fleshy fruit ensconced in gravelly tannins. This compels with exotic hints of carob and tamarind, lip-smacking citrussy acidity, then a stony crunch on the finish. A solid up-and-coming estate. |
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Chianti Classico (Gran Selezione) |
2020 |
92 |
Row 164 - Cell 4 | This estate was purchased and restored by Carlo Burchi in the 1980s. The Gran Selezione bears the name of his youngest son, Lorenzo, who now manages the property with his brother, Alessandro. They work with renowned consulting enologist, Alberto Antonini. With hints of grilled meat and pine, the 2020 is still somewhat ensconced in oak. However, a few swirls reveal gorgeous floral scents of hyacinth and lilac, melding attractively with sweet spice. Full but not lavish, the palate shows plenty of vigour. Spiced brambly berries pack the core and acidity offers a countering crunch, and the tannins are large and chewy though not drying. |
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Chianti Classico (Gran Selezione) |
2020 |
92 |
Row 165 - Cell 4 | The only one of Le Fonti’s three Chianti Classico offerings made from 100% Sangiovese, this sees slightly more new wood than the Riserva – approximately 30% – which is effectively incorporated and lends vanilla and smoke notes to grilled meat and balsamic herb nuances. Savoury tannins have a pleasant bitter edge and provide a solid backbone to the dense, dark berry core. It's quite a chewy mouthful but carries its substantial girth well. I suggest mid- rather than long-term ageing for this 2020 release. Fewer than 3,000 bottles produced. |
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Chianti Classico (Gran Selezione) |
2020 |
92 |
Row 166 - Cell 4 | Given its blend with Merlot, this Gran Selezione conflicts with pending changes to the regulations. However, proprietor Duccio Corsini assures that the identity of Don Tommaso will remain intact in future vintages – either as an IGT Toscana or Chianti Classico annata. Conveying the generous warmth of San Casciano, the 2020 cascades with potpourri, ripe plum, vanilla and cedar. It is a lavish mouthful of candied cherry with sweet spice oak nuances embedded in the plump core. Plush, polished tannins and bright acidity make this affable and accessible. There are abundant layers and enough depth to carry it through the mid-term. |
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Chianti Classico (Gran Selezione) |
2019 |
92 |
Row 167 - Cell 4 | Launched as a Riserva in 1981, Solatìo hails from two sun-soaked plots which give this bottling its name, crafted exclusively from Sangiovese planted in the early '90s. Refinement in Slavonian oak casks is followed by a further year in glass-lined cement tanks. Restrained yet appealing in its earthy nuances of truffle, leather and black tea, forest berries intensify as this expands across the palate but it remains streamlined rather than rich. Chalky tannins are folded in seamlessly and give a judicious tug. Steely acidity accentuates lingering stony notes. Drinkable now. |
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Chianti Classico (Gran Selezione) |
2019 |
92 |
Row 168 - Cell 4 | The estate’s second Gran Selezione release is an assemblage of two vineyards: Vigna Pozzo, planted in 1999, and Vigna Sopratorre, planted in 2006. The high altitude plots share the same geology – namely Panzano’s Pietraforte, which is a hard calcareous sandstone. It sports a spicy nose of sage and oregano mixed with pressed rose. The compact fruit is very sour red cherry and rhubarb in personality, emphasised by steely acidity. Nuances of cedar forest and tobacco lend complexity. The tannins are dry and vertical, though not unyielding. This strikes an admirable balance of power and elegance. |
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Chianti Classico (Gran Selezione) |
2018 |
92 |
Row 169 - Cell 4 | Produced for over 40 years, this single-vineyard bottling has been made with 100% Sangiovese since its inception. Initially a Vino da Tavola, it has come up through the ranks as it progressed to IGT Toscana, then Chianti Classico Riserva, and finally Gran Selezione in 2016. Long ageing lends tertiary notes of dried flowers, coffee, leather and chestnut, yet this is still resolutely structured. Firm, dense and austere rather than rich, it will require further cellaring to soften. Serve with game to match its earthy, irony nuances. |
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Chianti Classico (Gran Selezione) |
2018 |
92 |
Row 170 - Cell 4 | From the estate’s historic vineyard, partially replanted approximately 15 years ago. The warm, windy spot looks southeast toward Montalcino and sits on stony calcareous clay. Wild, robust and full of drama, the 2018 vintage opens with earthy scents of chestnut, leather and grilled meat. It is dense and brooding in dark fruit tones. Crisp acidity meets rugged, chewy tannins that build to a scorched earth finish. Not for the faint of heart. |
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Chianti Classico (Gran Selezione) |
2021 |
91 |
Row 171 - Cell 4 | This wine comes exclusively from the Rancia hill, where rocky, limestone marls prevail. This 2021 – the first vintage as a Gran Selezione rather than Riserva – is true to its reserved, firm character. For now, whiffs of cedar, vanilla and coffee waft furtively while the palate hints at dark, smoky berries, pulverised stone and leather. Angular in form with its structure currently dwarfing the fruit, this needs time for its tannins and oak to digest. Assertively dry on the finish. |
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Chianti Classico (Gran Selezione) |
2020 |
91 |
Row 172 - Cell 4 | One of three single-vineyard Gran Selezione from Castello di Meleto, Poggiarso comes from a cool, high altitude site in Gaiole on calcareous clay. Spontaneous fermentation in concrete is followed by ageing in large casks. Still young and tightly wound, it wafts with subtle hints of lavender, sandalwood and nutmeg. The palate is correspondingly taut and austere. Steely acidity pokes through the lean forest berry fruit, and long, streamlined tannins need to relax. Hopefully this will reveal more of the personality it hints at after another year or so in the cellar. |
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Chianti Classico (Gran Selezione) |
2020 |
91 |
Row 173 - Cell 4 | The only 100% Sangiovese of the estate’s Chianti Classico lineup, this is crafted from the Cantinetta vineyard. On the far western ridge of Panzano at 400 metres, it slopes gently south to southwest, harnessing the generous warmth. Alluring aromas of tobacco, coffee and pressed violet are inflected with a polite suggestion of vanilla. The palate is smoothly built with chewy, yielding tannins, dark plum tones and an appealing earthiness. Weighty and a bit ponderous, this could do with a bit more energy. Will be at its best over the near-term. |
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Chianti Classico (Gran Selezione) |
2020 |
91 |
Row 174 - Cell 4 | Selected from the estate’s Le Terrazze vineyard – a five-hectare site planted in 2000, with a southeast to northwest exposure at 320 to 340 metres above sea level on calcareous marls rich in stone. Flinty aromas lead into pepper and cedar-infused strawberry. Full, accessible and plush, the dark cherry palate is laced with wood smoke. The tannins layer up with a powdery, ashy mouthfeel yet remain supple. A refreshing tang lends some definition, and it trails off with notes of cured leather. |
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Chianti Classico (Gran Selezione) |
2019 |
91 |
Row 175 - Cell 4 | Located in the southern reaches of Gaiole near the hamlet of Monti, Podere Il Palazzino produces two Gran Selezione from distinct plots. Both spend a year in used barriques before finishing maturation in large cask. Argenina hails from a rare outcropping of fluvial terraces. Aromas of wild forest berries are inflected with iron and wet stone – mineral notes which echo on the palate, joined by hints of smoke and oily herbs. Savoury rather than fruity, it unfolds slowly with lean, chiselled muscles. Sneaky in its concentration and rigid in its acidity. |
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Chianti Classico (Gran Selezione) |
2019 |
91 |
Row 176 - Cell 4 | The highly regarded Stielle plateau is a logical site for the estate’s Gran Selezione. Well ventilated but sheltered from the harshest winds, it climbs upwards of 500 metres with exposures running from east to south to all the way west. Aromas are redolent of chestnut forest and toasted hazelnut. As it opens, notes of pressed rose emerge, and that perfumed quality repeats on the palate. Midweight rather than full, it slinks with lean, sinewy fruit. Tart woodland berries are tinged with rosemary. The tannins are just al dente, showing a touch of astringency on the finish. |
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Chianti Classico (Gran Selezione) |
2019 |
91 |
Row 177 - Cell 4 | This 50-year-old vineyard measuring less than half a hectare is a museum of unique vines each with their own story, which owner Sophie Conte tries to preserve. It yields small quantities of big, juicy berries. Relatively rich and full, the 2019 demonstrates a sweet yet savoury personality. Spicy pepper and iron contrast with caramel accents. The fruit is soft and the tannins smooth, though wood notes add a bit of grit. Aromatic herbs flit in the background with chocolate mint escalating on the finish. Just a bit discombobulated. |
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Chianti Classico (Gran Selezione) |
2019 |
90 |
Row 178 - Cell 4 | Bottled as a Riserva until 2016, Paneretta’s historic Torre a Destra label comes from a single, steep, southeast-facing vineyard, which sits to the left of the castle’s tower. Aged entirely in new French oak barriques, it wears its toasty oak character on its sleeve. Nutmeg and vanilla intertwine with liquorice and tarragon. Wanting a bit more tension, the amply weighted palate is smooth and slick. Glossy berries and candied plum assimilate coffee notes on the finish. Sweet, mellowed tannins make this immediately approachable. |
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Chianti Classico (Gran Selezione) |
2018 |
90 |
Row 179 - Cell 4 | Director Stefano Peruzzi describes 2018 as a warmer, more arid year than 2019 and likens the wines to the concentrated, structured 2015s. The Gran Selezione comes from the estate’s warmest site in Radda on stony Galestro soil. It articulates both vintage and site with its ripe, dark berry flavours, robust tannins and heady alcohol. It also wears its new tonneaux ageing on its sleeve. Nutmeg, toast and coffee steal the spotlight before making way for sun-baked earth. At the core, it pops with limpid blackcurrant and cherry, underscored by concentrated, linear acidity. The finish is a touch drying, and heat lingers. |