Christie’s Hospices de Beaune tasting: 2015 & 2016

On 17 November, Beaune will become the focus for the world-famous Hospices de Beaune auction – this year being the 159th such event. To launch the auction, Christie’s held a small tasting last week at their King Street offices, focused on wines from 2015 and 2016. Attending were Christie’s Senior Consultant Jasper Morris MW, acknowledged as one of the world’s leading authorities on the wines from the Côte d’Or.

Christie’s have managed the event since 2005, with takings at the last auction reaching a record of €16.976m for 843 pièces (of 228 litres). Not only was 2018 a record-breaking year in terms of auction proceeds – it heralded a wonderful vintage for both red and white wines, with the former compared by some pundits to 1947. Amidst speculation on the merits of 2019, it appears that Burgundy has another jewel in its crown about to hit the market.

Scroll down for Andy Howard MW’s Hospices de Beaune tasting notes and scores

The Hospices de Beaune is unique: for 576 years, since it was founded by Nicolas Rolin (chancellor to Philippe Le Bon, Duke of Burgundy) and his wife Guigone de Salins, the Hospices has provided the Beaune community with care and support. Since 1443, the hospital has been funded by gifts and legacies of land, money and vineyards but it wasn’t until 1859 that the first auction of Hospices wines took place.

Following Christie’s involvement, the auction has been transformed. Whereas sales were historically dominated by the large négociants, from 2005 it was opened to private individuals. If successful, purchasers have their pièces nurtured by a small group of négociant-éléveurs, prior to bottling 18-24 months later. Renowned names Bichot and Lucien Le Moine are the significant éléveurs.

At the 2019 auction, 589 pièces are due to be sold – 471 red wine, 118 white. 85% of Hospices wines are designated Premier or Grand Cru, with an average age of 35 years. Vineyards cover both Côte de Nuits and Côte de Beaune, with Grand Cru wines from Clos de La Roche, Mazis-Chambertin, Echezeaux and Corton-Charlemagne. In an unusual divergence from normal designations, a Hospices Premier or Grand Cru can be a blend from different Premier or Grand Cru climats. As an example, 1er Cru Volnay Cuvée Blondeau is crafted from vines located in Champans, Taille Pieds, Les Ronceret and Mitans.

Quality has always been a priority with the Hospices wines but, since the arrival of new régisseur Ludivine Griveau in 2015, there has been an increased focus on consistency and lightness of touch.

In contrast with the hot, dry, 2018 vintage, 2019 was a year of great variations in conditions. The winter months were significantly drier than usual, allied to temperatures around 3 degrees above the norm. Vegetation was advanced at the start of April when frost arrived, threatening a repeat of the devastating damage seen in 2016. Across the region, candles were lit and fans and smoke were used (the latter after special decree). Apart from some limited damage, the region got away with it.

May was very cool and dry, with erratic weather in early June. Late-June saw the arrival of a heatwave, with July being hot and dry. The region escaped severe thunderstorms, although Savigny and Corton were hit. August was once again variable with September dry and sunny. For the first time some vines showed water stress. The harvest, which at one point had looked as if it was going to be very late, finally started a bit later than a number of recent years – 9th September for whites.

Quality levels are undoubtedly high, across both with reds and whites. Wines are concentrated, elegant and have wonderful acidity. Ludivine Griveau is very positive regarding 2019; ‘the preserved acidity (despite the high sugar content) seems to be the unifying feature of this vintage, which is superb both in red and white’.

Based on the highly promising 2015 and 2016 wines tasted at Christie’s, 2019 could be among the best Hospices wines yet. All of the wines tasted were intense, concentrated and pure, with all of them displaying the terroir driven characteristics that makes Côte d’Or wines special. Mazis-Chambertin and Pommard 1er Cru Epenots stood out.

Bottles from the Hospices de Beaune are never cheap, but very few wines support charitable projects in the same way, making these wines especially commendable.

See Andy Howard MW’s Hospices de Beaune tasting notes and scores

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