Collectible California Cabernet

Nature has not been especially kind to California over the last decade. Eight straight years of drought. Heartwrenching wildfires. A devastating earthquake. And yet, as counter-intuitive as it might seem, some of the most impressive and collectible California Cabernets have been made during this time – at least among the very top estates.

Indeed, the 2014s, 2015s and 2016s that are now on the market reveal both intensity and complexity of flavour while promising great ageworthiness. In my recent tastings, the 2016s in particular – when gentle rains in early spring replenished the ground waters – are beguilingly delicious and at the same time possess exquisite structures.Beyond that gift of rain, to what does one attribute such success?

Scroll down for Karen MacNeil’s top 20 California Cabernets worth collecting

Of all the possible factors, the one that seems most likely to me is a simple fact: the top Cabernet winemakers (some of whom now have 30-plus vintages under their belts) understand the nuances of their terroirs on a granular level. They have left behind the very old days of recipe-made Cabernet, left behind a blinding reverence for fruit flavours alone, even left behind making Cabernet for anyone’s palates but their own. California Cabernet is, I believe, entering a whole new era of excellence.

‘There’s nothing difficult about making fruit-driven wines in California; the fruit is absolutely going to ripen,’ says Andy Erickson who in addition to his own brand Favia, has a resume that includes Dalla Valle, Screaming Eagle and Harlan. ‘I’d rather err on the side of energy and tannin in wine.’ His partner and wife, viticulturist Annie Favia agrees. ‘When we talk about Cabernets that grab us,’ she says, ‘it’s because of their vivacity, tension and grip.’

Energy. Vivacity. These were not among the words most California vintners used a decade ago. Today is different. ‘We’re after a wine with brightness,’ says Ann Colgin, founder of Colgin Cellars. ‘Freshness is a key part of our vocabulary. Her partner and husband Joe Wender adds: ‘Freshness, minerality and perfume are the most important characteristics we hope our vineyards express.’

To these ends, it comes as no surprise that some top estates are picking their grapes a bit earlier and using less new oak. Vineyards sited north and east are often especially treasured, and cooling breezes (either from the ocean or bay) are not just helpful in California – they are critical to maintaining balance. Above all, top California Cabernet always benefits from stunning diurnal temperature fluctuations. In the Napa Valley, for example, the nights are usually between 4°C and 10°C cooler than the days.

Today in California, there are 34,000ha of Cabernet Sauvignon planted, a number that has remained relatively constant for a decade. Most of the best is located in the tiny Napa Valley and produced by very small estates. I live in Napa Valley and have tasted wines from these estates often. While it was hard to choose just 20, here are my picks.

Karen MacNeil is the author of the award-winning book The Wine Bible and the creator and editor of WineSpeed. Follow Karen on Twitter.

See Karen MacNeil’s top 20 California Cabernets worth collecting

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