Cool-climate Australian Chardonnay: Panel tasting results

Flametree was established in 2007 and specialises in Margaret River’s principal varieties: Chardonnay and Cabernet Sauvignon. Sourcing from select vineyards across the region, they’re able to highlight localised strengths through their flagship Sub-regional Series range. The Wallcliffe sub-region has a justifiable reputation for Chardonnay, and these grapes were whole-bunch pressed to French oak puncheons (35% new), fermented with wild yeast and aged on lees for 10 months with no malolactic or stirring. Alex Hunt MW: Lovely grilled-nut reduction with real palate weight to support that ‘treble’ note. Very satisfying, with an almost manzanilla-style umami feel. Roger Jones: Textured, silky. Deep concentration of pure-class fruit. Still a bit ripe on the nose. Decant to enjoy layers of flavour. A hint of olive oil. Beth Pearce MW: Layered, with gunflint reduction, complex fruits, nuts, toast and smoke. A chalky-textured palate that displays a noticeable tension throughout.

Polymath Dr Ray Nadeson founded Lethbridge in 1996 and has set a high bar for Geelong ever since, showing mastery of both typical and more obscure varieties. This Chardonnay was handpicked from a 1981-planted block within the historic Rebenberg vineyard, the site that helped revive Geelong in the 1970s. The grapes were whole-bunch pressed directly into new 500-litre French oak puncheons before indigenous-yeast fermentation, natural malolactic fermentation and 11 months on lees before bottling. Alex Hunt MW: Multi-layered, vigorous and comparatively youthful as it approaches a decade since the grapes were harvested. Succulent core framed by electric acidity. Plenty of life left. Roger Jones: Perfumed notes, layers of intensity and complexity. The fruit purity is immense. Hints of ginger lift this to a wonderful level. Pure class. Beth Pearce MW: Evolved nose with saffron and ripe, orangey fruit. Cleansing acidity, lift and freshness despite a lot of fruit evolution. Plenty of complexity, toasty notes adding interest.

Jazz obsessive Phil Sexton moved to the Yarra Valley in search of a great site, planting the Sexton vineyard in 1997 and naming his winery Giant Steps after the seminal John Coltrane album. The Bastard Hill vineyard was actually planted earlier, in 1986, but made its Giant Steps debut in 2023. This second vintage was whole-bunch pressed to 500-litre French oak puncheons (20% new) and aged for nine months, with 25% going through malolactic. Alex Hunt MW: Light, unassuming nose, but the palate packs a punch! Green apple flavour, but not tart or lean. Terrific focus and precision. Roger Jones: Clean, linear. Great balance of minerality, stone fruit and fresh bright citrus zest. Layers of fresh, bright, tantalising fruit. Beth Pearce MW: Ripe citrus with green hints. Zippy palate with gentle weight and pure fruit. Lifted floral notes and a long, clean, steely finish. Slight austerity that works here.

A portmanteau of founders Ben Mullen and Ben Hine, Mulline has rapidly established a serious reputation since starting in Geelong in 2018. Mullen’s impressive CV, which includes stints at Domaine Dujac, Leeuwin Estate and Yarra Yering among others, has no doubt helped. From a coastal single vineyard planted in 1994 on sandy loam and dark clay over ironstone, this Chardonnay saw a natural ferment on full solids in French oak (20% new) followed by eight months’ ageing in barrel. Alex Hunt MW: Poised and complex, with a dusting of violet-scented icing sugar over quite Burgundian savoury/apple fruit. Plenty of interest and individuality. Roger Jones: Multi-layered and fragrant, with vanilla custard, crème brûlée, toasted pine nuts, some herbaceous notes and clementine zest. Evolves beautifully in the glass. Class. Beth Pearce MW: Toasted hazelnuts, brioche and pure apple. A creamy texture and toasty notes on the finish. Ripe stone fruit and citrus. A warming, layered expression.

Lindsay McCall is one of the original pioneers of the Mornington Peninsula, establishing Paringa Estate on a former orchard in 1985. The winery’s output gradually grew in volume and reputation while he maintained his day job as a geography teacher, before he eventually went full-time in 1996. On volcanic soil in the cool-climate Red Hill sub-region, this Chardonnay was whole-bunch pressed to French oak barriques (a mixture of new, second-use and third-use) for fermentation and 11 months’ ageing, with monthly stirring. Alex Hunt MW: Evolving in an interesting direction: lime cordial and toast, like a Semillon. Palate structure is broad but still bright. Could be a little divisive, like an old-school aged Burgundy. Exciting and intriguing. Roger Jones: Toasty, aromatic nose with a gentle perfume. Layers of texture and flavour. Pretty seamless, with a bright, clean saline finish. Beautiful. Beth Pearce MW: Citrus, hazelnut and herbal edges with a hint of reduction. Generous, juicy. Baking spice notes well integrated. A sense that it will keep improving.

Founded in 1977 close to the town of Margaret River, Xanadu’s holdings comprise three vineyard sites, of which the oldest, the Lagan Estate, is the source of its Reserve Chardonnay. Planted in 1981 on deep, free-draining gravelly loam, the region’s typical Gingin clone yields a mix of larger and smaller berries, which were whole-bunch pressed and fermented in 225-litre French oak barriques (28% new) with regular stirring but no malolactic during the nine-month ageing period. Alex Hunt MW: On the leaner side, given its weight and gravitas. Both grilled and fresh citrus notes dominate, with savoury nuttiness for complexity. Long on the finish, if not yet fully resolved. Roger Jones: Textural, focused, layered. Evolving well. Gently opens on the palate with great precision and quality fruit notes. Beth Pearce MW: Delicate baking spices around a core of vibrant white peach and ripe apple fruit. The acidity is serious but well integrated, carrying the wine through to an impressive crescendo.

Bright citrus, apple and white nectarine. Rocky, savoury energy, generously pure fruit. Leesy richness; vibrant, clean palate. Lingering freshness.

Savoury, leesy brightness, fresh confit lemon. Creamy vanilla richness, gentle reduction. Energetic core, steely tension and bright acidity. Mouthwatering citrus finish.

Velvety and expressive. Peach-tinged citrus, floral and gentle herbal nuances. Clean, bright stone fruit with subtle, creamy spice, toasty depth, roasted hazelnut. Harmonious and long.

Red apple, subtle cinnamon, grilled stone fruit and quince. Linear, with citrus zest. Carried by steely, refreshing acidity and quietly assured poise.

Refined, focused. Lemon, green apple and white stone fruit lifted by a delicate floral aroma. Elegant, well-judged oak adds spice and shape. Steely precision layered with cool-climate freshness. Long, mineral, acid-driven finish.

Focused,concentrated, with grilled-citrus reduction, bright peach, orange zest and oyster-shell minerality. Creamy yet refreshing palate with citrus and soft pineapple. Dense, zesty and saline-edged.

Quietly aromatic with fresh apple and zesty curd. Poised, bright and pure, with lifted fruit and a clean, layered texture. Mineral edges with lively acidity add energy. A gentle, textural, refined and balanced finish.

Dynamic and spicy, with citrus, apple and a tropical hint of quince and pineapple. Bright, piercing acidity carries a generous, lightly creamy palate; savoury undertow and mineral lift. Fresh and characterful.

Lemon, crunchy apple and stone fruit with lime-curd brightness. Energetic, nicely ripe. Poised acidity and subtle leesy richness give gentle weight. Pure, approachable and concentrated, with a clean, quietly mineral finish.

Distinctive and concentrated, with ripe citrus and tropical notes, herbal edges and a touch of toast. Generous fruit over savoury, leesy depth and oak. Textured, silky and balanced.

Zesty and clean-cut with citrus and golden stone fruit lifted by bright, steely acidity. Subtle oak, a light, creamy texture and nectarine and peach notes. Pure and brisk, finishing with oyster-shell freshness.

Bright citrus, green apple and fresh stone fruit with a touch of lemon curd and gentle florals. Dense, with a steely mineral line underpinning the lively acidity. A sense of emerging complexity.

Lime zest and fresh stone fruit over a subtle lees backdrop. Steely mineral drive and lively acidity. The poised texture hints at emerging depth and keeps the finish refreshing and neatly defined.

Bright, restrained. Fresh citrus, gentle stone fruit and a touch of toast. Clean, layered texture with pithy edges and steely minerality. A long, linear finish that hints at further depth to come.

Pure white stone fruit, citrus lift and a touch of white florals wrapped in polished oak. Creamy texture meets steely minerality and a hint of gunflint. Refreshing acidity suggests further integration with time.

Golden apple and pear with subtle savoury and herbal edges. Juicy fruit and firm acidity give grip and freshness. Bold and gently complex, the evolving layers promise further clarity and balance with time.

Apricot and citrus, golden apple and a touch of lemon curd. The palate is creamy with a light waxy feel. Straightforward, balanced and neatly focused, with a clean, purposeful finish.

Stone fruit, peach skin and light floral notes, touched by gentle herbaceous edges and a hint of lime zest. Pure, linear palate with subtle minerality. Clean, lightly pithy. Fresh and appetising finish.

Gentle stone fruit with bright lemon and a hint of tropical fruit. Juicy, fresh palate with hints of herbaceous complexity. Clean, balanced and fruit-forward with a long, focused finish.

Apricot, citrus and apple with a smoky gunflint edge. Creamy notes of light brioche add texture without heaviness. Balanced, with gentle complexity. The finish is neat and refreshing.

Bright citrus and clean stone fruit, a touch of toast and apple richness. Concentrated and pure, with fresh acidity and a light saline edge. Balanced, persistent, and composed, offering weight and freshness to carry it further.