First taste: Cristal 2008 launched
The UK launch of Cristal 2008 impressed Michael Edwards...
The long awaited Cristal 2008 was previewed earlier this week in one of those sleek Marylebone spaces without shelves or chairs – making writing a bit of a challenge!
The minimal ambience was appropriate to the unveiling of Jean-Baptiste Lécaillon’s new baby. If some of us found Cristal occasionally too rich in the past, this 2008 was a revelation, even in youth: a magical combination of freshness, energy, bright acidiy and aromatic class.
No doubt in America it will gain 100 points, but to an old English hand such soaring scores don’t mean that much.
Lécaillon’s lodestar is Puligny Montrachet, which can be seen in this 2008 – the epitome of a cool, maritime vintage from one of the longest harvests that ran well into October. The wine is just magnificent, with a very welcome focus on purity of fruit and not too much autolytic yeastiness. It’s a symbiosis of mature fruit from old vines – up to 64 years old – interacting with the finest chalk.
As with Dom Pérignon, the 2009 vintage was released last year, ahead of the 2008. This has given it more time in bottle; 10 years compared to the usual eight.
Michael’s tasting note & score for Cristal 2008:
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Louis Roederer, Cristal, Champagne, France, 2008
A sublime Champagne from Cristal from the famous and much praised 2008 vintage, which Jean-Baptiste Lécaillon calls a ‘dry and cool year that was a replay of 1996’. ‘The 2008s are so good because all the cellar masters learnt from 1996 - we adapted,’ he said during the masterclass in New York. Sharp, tangy, seriously mouthwatering, direct and compelling with tension at the very beginning that slowly expands and widens as the flavours relax in the mouth. Brioche, toasty notes on the nose with just-ripe green and yellow fruit aromas. Great energy and confidence on show, with hints of white chocolate that offset the low pH and high acidity. Pure and expressive, this is a wine that really gives the emotion with flavour that just lasts and lasts in the mouth full of red berries and chalkiness. Simply divine.
2008
Louis Roederer
