Exciting, diverse, soulful: My selection of 20 Portuguese wines for winter

A beautifully crafted Alfrocheiro-based blend, very approachable - with an inherent freshness and drinkability - but also layered complexity and ageing potential. There's a rustic finesse to it that gives it character and class. The enveloping nose, at once fragrant and deep, weaves petrichor, Earl Grey, wet tobacco leaves and cocoa powder. The palate follows with pure flavours echoing the aromas. Red plum and cranberry jam sit juiculy at the core, with a subtle lining of white pepper and saffron. A touch of zesty, blood-orange grip adds further energy.

Loads of character and sense of place in this complex, dynamic red from Madeira, showcasing the nearly forgotten Tinta Negra grape (also known as Tinta Bastarda in the Canary Islands). Balanced and vibrant, with sour cherry, cranberry, redcurrant and pomegranate layered with tobacco leaf, coffee bean, smoked bacon and saffron. Sprinkled generously with pink pepper and aniseed. Broody petrichor plays in the background.

A really characterful wine, that leverages the savoury, moreish appeal of Syrah with mountainous herbal fragrance and mineral freshness. Intense, fleshy black cherry, black olive, blackberry and blueberry jam are sprinkled with salty liquorice and black peppercorn. An textural smoky backdrop of Earl Grey, dark chocolate and tobacco adds depth and nuance. A wine still shy and restrained, in need to time to integrate its layers. Good ageing potential here.

Outstanding vividness and purity of flavour in this Touriga Nacional-based Douro blend, layered, complex yet remarkably fresh. There's ripe plum and cherry but also crispy red apple and juicy pomegranate, all topped with perfumed sage, oregano and thyme, and sprinkled with cocoa nibs and liquorice powder. Spicy outline to the tannins addins further definition and energy.

A wine that tests the potential of Alfrocheiro, Tinta Grossa and Baga in Alentejo - a smart choice that might prove essential as the region grapples with climate change. Fermented and aged in cocciopesto amphorae and terracotta tinajas, this has lovely purity of fruit and softness of tannins. The latter have a lot of character, with a mountainous, savoury structure. Juicy plum, greengage, redcurrant and cherry are cloaked in fragrant eucalyptus, bayleaf, mint and pine, all peaking through a veil of cocoa powder and liquorice.

Vivid and pure, this traditional Doro field blend was aged in 12 months in traditional clay amphorae, lined with beeswax, for 12 months. A juicy core of dark cherry, mulberries, plum and damson fill the mouth, framed by round yet assertive tannins, with a touch of graphite, and lifted by lively acid. Beautiful and nuanced bouquet, with Parma violets, mountain herbs and fried sage. Drinking beautifully now but with great potential to age in bottle.

Yet another delicious vintage of Teles' Gilda, with Maraschino Cherry, red plum, cranberry and pink grapefruit jumping from the glass. The tannins are both sweet and zesty, with sour cherry energy and grip. Long, smokey tail of Rooibos tea and sage.

A wine with approachable complexity and elegant rusticity. A blend of Aragonês (Tempranillo), Trincadeira, Castelão and Alicante Bouschet, that smartly leverages each variety. Crunchy plum and mulberry fruit with a delicious seam of coffee beans and dark chocolate. Deft integration of both wood and alcohol. Pleasant grip, at once zesty and savoury.

A versatile and fun blend of Tinta Roriz, Touriga Nacional and Touriga Franca, light and crunchy, with a pleasant sourness that gives it energy, intrigue and great food-matching potential. Cherry, cranberry and pink grapefruit, topped with sage, bayleaf and coriander seeds, mingle on the textural, grippy palate. The tannins ar once zesty, drenched in blood orange, and herbal, with a lining of thyme and Campari.

Purity, vibranty and freshness in this unpretentious blend of Touriga Franca, Touriga Nacional, Tinta Roriz, Sousão and old field blends. Crunchy red and blue fruit mingle on the palate supported by vibrant acid and zesty tannins. So drinkable but never simple, with alluring layer of fruit, herbs and sotobosque. A bottle that elevates the 'everyday drinking' concept to a new level.

Such a joyous, relaxed yet meaty everyday drinker, with luscious cherry, wild strawberry and pomegranate filling the mouth, with blood orange freshness running underneath. Basil, eucalyptus and mint add a herbal lift. Best enjoyed slightly chilled, with an easy midweek pasta dinner.