Exclusive: California’s Kosta Browne goes to Burgundy

Kosta Browne winery, part of the publicly listed wine company The Duckhorn Portfolio, has produced its first wines in Burgundy: four Pinot Noirs from the Gevrey-Chambertin, Pommard, Volnay and Beaune Premier Cru appellations, and a Chardonnay from Meursault.

For a Sebastopol-based outfit that began as a Russian River and Sonoma Coast label, a 25-year expansion through California now takes a quantum leap across the Atlantic to Beaune.

Scroll down for exclusive tasting notes of the five Burgundy wines from Kosta Browne

Kosta Browne’s Burgundy project follows the négociant model, working with purchased wine from the 2020 vintage, though there are already plans to source grapes for future releases.

‘We reasoned that if we were going to make wine outside California we should start with Burgundy, the sacred home of Pinot Noir,’ says winemaker Julien Howsepian.

Howsepian says respect for terroir is paramount. ‘It’s not about making a Californian version of Gevrey-Chambertin,’ he explains – ‘It’s about making an amazing Gevrey-Chambertin.’

Burgundian connection

Kosta Browne’s connection with Burgundy is strong. Many interns from the region have spent time in the California cellars and, since 2015, Howsepian has made annual pilgrimages to a cooperage on the outskirts of Beaune to make modifications for the barrels used to age his Russian River and Sonoma Coast wines.

Howsepian said the wines were made in ‘a historic cellar’ in Beaune with ‘partners that have deep roots and access to significant vineyards’ throughout Burgundy. ‘Our team in France shares the same quality standards and passion we have to make great wine.’

After ageing in the Beaune cellars, the wine was transported to California for finishing and bottling.

Working with his Burgundian counterparts, Howsepian identified wines from Gevrey-Chambertin, Pommard, Volnay, Beaune Premier Cru and Meursault to launch the Burgundy portfolio. Total production averages 500 cases of each wine.

The 2020 vintage wines will be released this summer, with the four Pinots Noirs priced at $125 (£95) a bottle and the Chardonnay at $120 (£91). While most of the production will go to Kosta Browne’s allocation list members, a tiny portion will be offered to select merchants and retailers.

Though distribution outside the US is scant, plans are underway to supply European markets with allocations in subsequent vintages as the project matures.

Kosta Browne in Burgundy: first taste of the new wines

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