Expert’s Choice: 18 supreme Argentinian Bonardas

Part of the line of single-vineyard wines with which winemaker Alejandro Vigil aims to demonstrate that Bonarda can make more than just simple wines for sipping on the go. This comes from more than 80-year-old vines in the warm east of Mendoza. It’s aged for one year in foudres and is a red rich in herbal and fruity nuances. The palate displays especially energetic acidity and fine, sharp tannins. Fruit flavours abound.

The Andean freshness seems to lend a herbal side to this red, with ripe red fruits pulsing in the background. The calcareous soils of these places have imparted a pungent texture and the acidity is fine and tense. One of the most daring interpretations of Bonarda, this combines equal parts from Altamira and San Pablo, both in the Uco Valley, between 1,100m and 1,500m. A Bonarda that challenges definitions of the variety.

Nicola Catena was the founder of the Catena winery and planted the first vineyards of what is now one of the key wineries in modern Argentine wine. This Bonarda, from eastern Mendoza, is a tribute to the founder in a wine of great balance and elegance. It seems to have no sharp edges; everything flows with spicy, herbal and, above all, fruity flavours – ripe, juicy black fruits, as dictated by the grape’s DNA.

Southeast of Mendoza, Rivadavia has one of the greatest concentrations of Bonarda vineyards in Argentina. Thanks to a cold year in 2021, this shows an energetic face full of refreshing fruit. The gentle sweetness of the Bonarda is still there, but the tension of the acidity takes on a different dimension. A smooth and juicy red to pair with charcuterie.

Although winemaker and co-owner Mauricio Lorca is originally from eastern Mendoza, where Bonarda is native, for Firmado he selected his own vineyards in Los Arboles, in Uco Valley. Full-bodied, with spicy and smoky aromas from oak ageing, but with a background of ripe, succulent black fruits that quickly take centre stage. Tannins are soft, juicy and fluid in a Bonarda suitable for hearty meals.

From French winemakers Quentin Pommier and Thibault Lepoutre, who have lived in Mendoza for years. Their wines come from the highlands of the Uco Valley, such as this Bonarda from old vines in the Los Chacayes region. A strong sensation of ripe, succulent fruit, along with spicy and herbal aromas. Generous flavours and firm tannin structure, closely connected to the limestone soils of the area.

Winemaker Roberto González sources this Bonarda from an old vineyard on the clay soils of Agrelo, Mendoza. This has been the same source of grapes since this Tortugas was launched in 2000, under the name Edición Limitada. This vintage offers a layer of ripe, mouthwatering flavours, a firm but not aggressive tannin texture and fresh acidity.

As a slow-ripening variety, Bonarda likes the sun. And in Cafayate, at about 1,600m, there’s plenty of sunshine. This experiment from one of the area’s key wineries, has created a Beaujolais-style interpretation of the grape, using carbonic maceration to imbue great fruit expression and a delicious freshness that invites you to keep drinking.

The idea of planting Bonarda in the Uco Valley is growing among Mendoza producers. Here, gastronomic entrepreneur Aldo Graziani has made room in his catalogue for a Bonarda from Agua Amarga, at about 1,200m. With a firm texture, in tune with Andean Bonardas, the tannins here grip like sharp nails, while the acidity is juicy and refreshing. The rest is fruit and more fruit to sip and quench your thirst.

The Cabrillana brothers come from a long tradition of wine-growers in eastern Mendoza, so they know something about Bonarda. Winemaker Leonel and viticulturist Esteban grew up with this grape, and in this wine they’ve interpreted it in such a refreshing way that it’s hard to recognise, but very much in tune with the brothers’ winemaking style. Here, there are juicy red fruits, sharp acidity and a light and refreshing body, perfect for sipping poolside.

Owned by winemakers Francisco Fraguas and Conrado Gibbs, this is another small Mendoza project reviving Bonarda. For this wine, they purchase grapes from 70-year-old vineyards located in the Medrano region of eastern Mendoza. The wine has aromas of sweet black fruits and some herbal notes that contribute to its freshness. It’s juicy, with a full-bodied texture: one of those reds that fills the mouth with its flavour.

It’s not unusual to come across old Bonarda vines in Mendoza. In this case, they’re more than half a century old and planted in the warm plains of Guaymallen, east of the city. The nine months of barrel ageing (half of the wine) initially bring toasted notes, but soon the variety’s ripe, succulent fruit takes hold, with juicy flavours and that smooth, creamy texture. A textbook Bonarda.

Oid Mortal is the project of Amparo March and Pablo Marino, in Tupungato in the northern Uco Valley. For this Bonarda, the couple select grapes from the neighbouring area of El Peral, crafting a wine with juicy black fruits, full-bodied on the palate but refreshed by a mountain-high acidity and herbal notes that add tension. Suitable for stewed meats.

Mariana Onofri is a well-known sommelier from Mendoza who also has this project based on vineyards in the Lavalle area of eastern Mendoza. From there, and from 40-year-old vines, she obtains this Bonarda, another that challenges the definitions of the variety. It’s muscular, with firm tannins and high acidity by the grape’s standards. The flavours reflect the variety, displaying their ripe and succulent tones.

This Bonarda began appearing on the international market in the early 2000s and was an immediate success because it showcased the grape’s friendlier side. This new vintage offers a similar character, full of fruity aromas and flavours, and a texture that makes the wine flow through the mouth, leaving a pleasant sweetness. Perfect with finger food; serve it chilled.

Germán Massera and his wife Ayelén Bonetto have a small property in the heights of Gualtallary, Uco Valley, where they grow vines, while also buying in grapes from other local growers. This comes from an Uco vineyard and is a simple, direct Bonarda. Ripe fruit aromas blend with herbal notes. A juicy palate with bright acidity, but with Bonarda's succulent side. Perfect for grilled meats.

The Santos family has been involved in winemaking for generations. Today, they have a winery base near Mendoza, and four other vineyard sites around the region; they also buy in grapes. In this case, it’s a Bonarda from a vineyard planted in 1981 in Ugarteche. A classic example with sweet aromas of black fruits and succulent flavours that are allied to a creamy texture.

Staphyle is owned by the Porretta family, who also own the historic Hotel Potrerillos, above Potrerillos dam in the foothills of the Andes. Their vineyards are mostly located further downstream in Agrelo and from there they source the early-harvested grapes for this refreshing, soft Bonarda. Aromas and flavours of black fruits emerge alongside herbs, lively acidity and a light body.