Expert’s Choice: English Bacchus 2018

For many of us, the first image conjured up by the word ‘Bacchus‘ is of a Roman god, perhaps with a crown of vine leaves, an entrancing and ambivalent figure full of mystery and fascination. Bacchus the grape variety doesn’t enjoy quite the same fame – or infamy – as its classical namesake, though it is arguably no less intriguing.

Created in Germany in 1933, Bacchus is a crossing of Müller-Thurgau with a Silvaner x Riesling cross. It ripens early, so has the advantage of being suitable for sites considered too cool for Riesling. It can be arrestingly aromatic and characterful with a zesty exuberance and a core of mouthwatering freshness.

Scroll down for Susie Barrie MW’s top 18 English Bacchus wines

Bacchus was brought to the UK in 1973 and has since become the fourth most-planted grape variety, covering 200ha. Given that Bacchus is rarely found outside these two countries, there is clearly an opportunity for it to become a significant calling card for the UK as the country builds s reputation as a producer of not just sparkling wines but of still wines too.

But do we know the real Bacchus? Opinions vary as to what constitutes a typical (or even desirable) wine from this variety. Touted by some as the UK’s answer to Sauvignon Blanc, others find its florality more akin to that of its parent, Riesling. Others still feel that we have yet to discover the true potential of Bacchus and that it is too early to say just what range of styles it is capable of.

New frontier

Josh Donaghay-Spire, head winemaker at Chapel Down in Kent, has made seven different Bacchus wines to date. The most ambitious is Kit’s Coty Bacchus, which is wild-fermented and aged in used French oak over nine months. Donaghay-Spire embodies the spirit of young UK winemakers when he says of working with Bacchus: ‘We’re just getting started: styles are evolving and changing, and it’s our responsibility to explore. I believe Bacchus can be a world-class wine.’

Over at Flint Vineyard in Norfolk, owner and winemaker Ben Witchell has undertaken an extensive research project aimed at analysing the aromatics and constituent parts of Bacchus. One of the key findings to date is just how complex Bacchus is when compared to other varieties.

Whatever you may think of Bacchus, it certainly performed well in the long, warm summer of 2018, which was ideal for making still wines. Most of those I’ve tasted are terrific: perfectly ripe with bags of flavour and character. The range of styles is growing too – from light, floral and zesty, to tangy gooseberry and cut-grass styles, to richly tropical versions.

Within my recommendations I’ve included a wide range of styles, all current releases from the 2018 vintage. Some wines, such as the Kit’s Coty mentioned above, are still maturing and yet to be released.

But, wherever you start, keep an eye out for 2018 Bacchus and start painting your own picture of this intriguing grape variety.

Susie Barrie MW is a widely published wine writer, author and broadcaster. With her husband Peter Richards MW, she is co-author of The Essential Guide to English Wine (May 2018)

See Susie Barrie MW’s top 18 English Bacchus wines

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