Furmint: A versatile variety to watch

Furmint is famous as the key ingredient in the amazing sweet wines of Tokaj, but over recent years it has quietly been building a reputation as a variety to watch: with multiple claims for joining the ranks of great white grapes.

Incredibly versatile, Furmint has some similarities to Riesling – able to go from bone dry, crisp and vibrant all the way to intensely sweet, though always with its hallmark steely acidity.

Scroll down for Furmint food pairing suggestions and top recommendations

At the same time, it has a touch of Chardonnay’s nature about it: capable of fine sparkling wines and able to respond well to oak and malolactic fermentation to give layered, complex, almost Burgundian-style wines.

This all makes sense, as genetic analysis shows it’s a half-sibling of both Chardonnay and Riesling.

The variety’s homeland is almost certainly Hungary, where it first appeared by the name Furmint in 1611, and of the 4,954ha planted in the world, Hungary has nearly 4,000ha (of which the biggest plantings are in Tokaj at 3,766ha).

Its second-biggest home is Slovenia, where it is better known as Sipon (supposedly a corruption of the nickname Napoleon’s soldiers gave – ‘si c’est bon’ – for ‘it’s so good’).

In the past it was treated as a high- yielding workhorse here, but now winemakers are identifying parcels of old vines, harvesting at low yields and giving it proper respect in the winery.

There’s also a new generation of bottle-fermented sparkling wines in both Hungary and Slovenia – Furmint’s naturally crisp acidity makes great raw material for bubbly.

Croatia is the third most important grower of Furmint, though it’s often hidden under alternative names like Moslavac and Pušipel.

Hungarians outside Hungary seem to feel a spiritual connection to Furmint, and there are notable small producers in Slovakia, Romania and Serbia, typically with Hungarian roots.

In the spotlight

A sense of place or terroir – reflecting different growing conditions – is another important feature of any great grape.

Furmints grown in Slovenia, Croatia, Slovakia, Romania, or even other Hungarian regions such as Somló, are distinctive.

In Tokaj, winemakers are increasingly searching out micro-locations or dűlő (the Hungarian word for a site selection), which show clearly how the variety responds to differences in soil and aspect.

The final question to establish a grape’s quality credibility is ageability.

Tokaj’s luscious aszú wines can age for decades, but serious dry wines from Furmint are relatively new on the scene, though recent tastings show 15-year-old examples still in great shape.

The warm, dry vintage of 2003 was a turning point for many producers, kick-starting new thinking about how to make dry wines deliberately (and managing the vineyards in a different way – aiming for super-healthy grapes).

It’s been a rapid learning curve to discern how best to grow and vinify this new generation of amazing dry wines, but the results today are truly exciting.

Whatever your choice: sparkling, dry or sweet, Furmint should be in your glass. It’s good enough to rival any of the world’s more famous whites.

Hungarian wine facts

• Regions: 22 wine regions, 33 PDOs
• Area under vine: 58,276 ha of vineyards in production in 2020 (white: 40,396 ha, red: 17,880 ha).
• Total production: 2.7 million hl in 2020
• Furmint accounts for 3,712 ha (3,573 ha in production). It is the country’s third most important white grape.

What food pairs well with different styles of dry Furmint?

Furmint is of strong interest for gastronomy due to its versatility, said Isa Bal MS, co-founder and sommelier of Trivet, London. It can be made into a range of styles and of varying sweetness, therefore diners can enjoy wines made from the same variety throughout the entire meal. ‘Not that many varieties can do that,’ he said.

Dry Furmint with its aroma characters and underlying acidity can work well with a diverse range of world cuisine, especially oriental spices. And it’s not only for aperitif and starters, he stressed, the weightier and more concentrated bottles can serve as alternatives to red wines to take on stronger flavours such as stews and other pot dishes. That is especially helpful when you are having heavy dishes in hot summers, he said.

Matching the weight of the wine with those of the food is the key, said the Master Sommelier. Here is his pairing guide based on four styles of dry Furmint.

1. Lighter, unoaked style

Examples: Patricius Furmint 2019, Sauska Furmint 2020

To be paired with: Japanese Tempura of red mullet and sea vegetables, with mild sweet and sour dip with a touch of spiciness.

The hot and crunchy Tempura dish is a perfect partner for a lighter dry Furmint with refreshing acidity and floral, citrus and green apple notes, which refreshes the palate and creates an extra dimension of flavours. Lightly seasoned seafood and soft-rim goat cheese could also pair nicely with these crisp dry Furmints.

2. Fuller with some oak ageing – ‘estate style’

Examples: Zsirai Estate Furmint 2016, Kikelet Furmint 2018

To be paired with: Seared scallop confit Kombu, with purée of sesame and pickled Hand of Buddha

For dry Furmints with a more oily texture but firm underlying acidity, Isa Bal MS recommends a dish that features citrusy acidity from the pickled Hand of Buddha, a touch of earthiness from the sesame seeds, and caramelised Kombu (kelp seaweed) for an element of umami. The scallop is seared brown on top and decorated with sesame for extra texture.

Both the dish and the wine style showcase a combination of richness and freshness, with the matching acidity level being the key to the marriage.

3. Single vineyard, more linear ‘Riesling style’

Examples: Sanzon Tokaj Nobilis Rany Furmint 2018, Tokaj Nobilis Barakonyi Furmint 2018

To be paired with: Lobster tagliolini. Native lobster tail steamed in its shell, with fresh trivet pasta, lobster and miso broth.

The dish plays on two different flavour profiles and textures, namely the firm texture of the lobster and the soba noodles-like tagliolini pasta. Miso provides umami and richness to the dish.

The textural quality of the wine and its poised acidity matches well with the lobster. The saltiness of the dish also complements the ripe and long fruity notes on the finish of the wine.

4. Single vineyard, richer ‘Chardonnay style’

Examples: Demetervin Úrágya 57 Furmint 2015, Grand Tokaj Kovago Furmint 18

To be paired with: Chicken with a vinegar sauce, lyonnaise potatoes and braised turnips

The sauce is based on vinegar and shallots that are finely chopped, thus high in acidity in itself. The crisp skin of the chicken provides further textural interest. Such a rich and complex dish works in perfect harmony with a full-bodied dry Furmint that boasts layers of flavours.

Pork belly with high acidity sauce, as well as a rich and full cantal cheese, could be another classic match.

*Stay tuned for more food and wine recommendations on Hungarian varieties in Decanter’s Hungarian supplement 2021, on sale at the beginning of March, in collaboration with Wines of Hungary.

See Caroline Gilby MW’s top Furmint wines in addition to our top picks for Furmint February 2021

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