Expert’s choice: Graciano, Mazuelo & Maturana

Once used as mere support for Tempranillo, the red varieties Graciano, Mazuelo and Maturana now have a voice of their own. They may be a little more challenging than the versatile, charming Garnacha, but changing conditions resulting from climate change, coupled with the thirst for something different, are driving a new breed of varietal reds in Rioja.

Scroll down for a selection of 18 Graciano, Mazuelo & Maturana wines to try

In the context of increasing temperatures, Graciano (1,400ha of plantings in Rioja) is a star. Boasting one of the deepest, most vibrant ruby shades in Rioja’s colour spectrum, it has high acidity and distinctive herbal and floral aromas, and has been the secret ingredient behind aged Rioja – just a little can really make a difference. In 1990 there were less than 200ha remaining, but a 1996 study carried out by the regional consejo concluded that Graciano was more suitable to escort Tempranillo than Cabernet Sauvignon, and since then the area under vine has grown steadily.

Interestingly, the first single-variety Graciano was made by Brown Brothers in Australia in the 1970s. Contino and Viña Ijalba didn’t produce theirs until the mid-1990s. A late-ripening variety, Graciano can struggle to achieve full ripeness, particularly in fresh areas or during cold vintages. This is not the case in Rioja Oriental, where it feels at ease and results in rounder, gentler reds in contrast to the energetic, vibrant profile that it usually achieves in Rioja Alta and Rioja Alavesa.

Breaking new ground

With its high acidity and tannins, Mazuelo (known as Cariñena in Catalonia, 1,175ha) is another common choice for blends in Rioja. A rather rustic, drought-resistant grape variety, it needs warm areas and full-sun exposure to ripen. Marqués de Murrieta produced a single variety to mark its 150th anniversary in 2002 and, in fact, the grape plays a key role in the current blend of Castillo de Ygay. More recently, Murrieta also produced a very striking 100% Mazuelo rosé. Perhaps Mazuelo hasn’t drawn as much attention as Graciano so far, but there are some very impressive, terroir-driven examples that are well worth looking for. The best wines make judicious use of oak and explore Mazuelo’s wild side.

Unlike the other two, Maturana (aka Castets in southwest France, 260ha) is a relatively recent discovery, and its cultivation was authorised in 2009. It’s the offspring of Gros Cabernet and Galician Espadeiro, and the Bordelais connection brings some herbal and pyrazinic aromas, but tannins tend to be gentler. This is not a late ripening variety; it has a relatively high pH but still has good acidity. The styles are less defined and, for the time being, the best examples avoid overripeness and keep oak under control.

All three varieties tend to be used for niche, limited-production wines that either sit within the premium ranges of well-established wineries or expand the portfolio of market-driven producers. They also wave the flag for a number of winemakers who are breaking new ground in Rioja. In fact, some of the most inspiring wines I have tasted fall into the latter group.

Tasting notes and scores for 18 Graciano, Mazuelo & Maturana wines to try

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