Expert’s choice: New Zealand Chardonnay 2020
High scores for the 18 excellent wines selected reflect the huge progress that’s been made by New Zealand’s Chardonnay producers in recent years, and prove that 2020 is a highly rated vintage.
New Zealand Chardonnay has earned its place in your wine cellar, and I encourage you to take another look at what the country has been up to. Diverse styles across a range of prices offer far more texture, concentration and complexity than you may have found in the past.
Scroll down to see tasting notes and scores for the top-scoring New Zealand Chardonnay 2020 wines
Chardonnay is grown in all wine regions in New Zealand, reflecting varied soil types and generally cooler-climate conditions. Some 16 clones are available, and average vine age for many growers of the variety is now 25 years, which is also showing positively on the wines released.
The use of amphorae or concrete eggs, as well as a trend towards less new barrel usage in favour of second- and third-year wood, to neutral and even no oak at all, gives winemakers more opportunity to harness a sense of place in their wines.
Producers are also increasingly releasing different expressions of Chardonnay to reflect vineyard and regional character. Organic, biodynamic, indigenous ferment and single- vineyard wines are becoming more common too.
New Zealand has been blessed with three outstanding successive vintages in 2019, 2020 and 2021, across all 10 regions. And the Chardonnays in particular have been fantastic. Of the 39,934ha of producing vines across the country in 2020, just 3,222ha (8.5%) was Chardonnay, and just 230ha of this was from permaculture-managed vineyards – those maintained as an agricultural ecosystem, self-sustaining, using no herbicides or pesticides.
There are currently 50 member producers of the Organic Winegrowers New Zealand organisation, and within this group only 31 make Chardonnay, mostly for still wine production. It is interesting to note that there is an increase in wine businesses converting to or practising permaculture vine-farming in New Zealand – a very positive move if the quality of Chardonnay, as well as other varieties, is indicative of these farming practices.
Year of texture
Chardonnays from the 2020 vintage, which should be well represented in the UK, show more complexity in their aromas, showcasing mineral attributes alongside pure fruit. There’s a riper fruit profile on the palate, too, featuring more defined flavours of grapefruit and lemon to white peach, baked apple and even quince. Baking spices from barrel-toasting is also evident in many, alongside richer apricot and baked custard notes.
Mouthfeel is a feature of many of the 2020 Chardonnays I’ve selected here, thanks to fine tannins from the fruit as well as wood, naturally higher acidity and extended time on lees to contrast the core of fruit.
See all 32 New Zealand Chardonnay 2020 wines tasted for this feature
There’s no mistaking the impact of oak in a few wines, but thankfully this has been used only when the fruit concentration can support it. Many producers are now very judicious with the oak in their Chardonnays, instead letting the impacts of soil, indigenous ferments, lees and excellent fruit speak louder.
Looking forward, 2021 was by no means an easy vintage for New Zealand wine producers, with some challenging weather conditions affecting flowering. An increase in export demand has not been helped by logistical hurdles from shipping lags and Covid-19. Despite all this, the 2021 vintage has delivered some exceptional quality overall from much reduced harvests. Just 23,507 tonnes of Chardonnay was crushed, down by 4,000 tonnes compared to 2020 figures.
New Zealand is not immune to the effects of climate change. Layering in the impact of an already challenging 2021 vintage, along with ozone depletion and a high UV-index, as well as earlier harvest windows, can mean the expressions of Chardonnay you encounter will vary.
If you’ve not seen docu-movie A Seat at the Table (Studio Nash/Republic Films, 2019), then now’s a good time. It strongly suggests that New Zealand Chardonnay is world-class and that the Kiwi wine industry itself needs to focus more attention on the variety. That’s good news for wine lovers.
Cameron Douglas MS’ top New Zealand Chardonnay 2020 wines
The below list features the top-scoring 18 wines, as published in the Expert’s Choice article in Decanter’s April 2022 issue, plus a further 14 wines that also impressed.
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Ata Rangi, Masters Chardonnay, Wairarapa, New Zealand, 2020
Inaugural release. Seamless, pure, very elegant, varietal and complex bouquet. Aromas and flavours of mineral and apple, white peach and citrus, raw cashew nut and...
2020
Ata Rangi
Dry River, Chardonnay, Wairarapa, New Zealand, 2020
An incredible expression of Chardonnay. Aromas of sweet grapefruit and heirloom peach, apple and fine layers of French oak, lees complexity and floral highlights, compelling...
2020
Dry River
Kumeu River, Coddington Vineyard Chardonnay, Kumeu, Auckland, New Zealand, 2020
Power and elegance, speaks of site. Fresh peach and quince with a nutty, salty, dairy fragrance adding breadth. Texture and mouthfeel, contrasting acid-line, peach and...
2020
Kumeu RiverKumeu
Villa Maria, Keltern Vineyard Chardonnay, Hawke’s Bay, New Zealand, 2020
97
Fantastic bouquet with piercing aromas of ripe stone fruits and gunflint, fresh white-fleshed orchard fruits, fine new barrel scents and soft baking spice moments. Complex, detailed and seductive. Even better on the palate with a pure fruit core showcasing flavours of grapefruit and stone fruits, citrus pith and wet pebble minerality. Youthful, complex and vibrant.
2020
Villa Maria
Bilancia, La Collina Vineyard Chardonnay, Hawke’s Bay, New Zealand, 2020
Intriguing bouquet, mineral to pure citrus fruit scents, a dense, almost nutty lees quality, orchard fruits and fine oak. Complex and quite delicious on the...
2020
Bilancia
Church Road, Tom Chardonnay, Hawke’s Bay, New Zealand, 2020
Scents of ripe citrus and fresh California peach, quince and vanilla, yoghurt, apple and barrel spice. A lees, mineral and gunflint combination emerges, adding layers...
2020
Church Road
Palliser Estate, Om Santi Chardonnay, Wairarapa, New Zealand, 2020
Incredibly complex, mineral and fruit-centric bouquet, layers of wood spice, wild flowers with a sense of place and time. Full-bodied, complex and delicious with baked...
2020
Palliser Estate
Black Estate, Home Chardonnay, North Canterbury, Canterbury, New Zealand, 2020
A captivating core of complexity with aromas of soil and fruit, oak and lees, gunmetal, fresh apple and white peach, honeysuckle and wild flowers. Delicious...
2020
Black EstateNorth Canterbury
Blank Canvas, Reed Vineyard Chardonnay, Marlborough, New Zealand, 2020
Captivating aromas of stone fruits and sweet citrus, a savoury spice and flinty complexity, oak adding layers of spice and woodsmoke. Power, finesse, layers of...
2020
Blank Canvas
Easthope Family Winegrowers, Skeetfield Vineyard Chardonnay, Hawke’s Bay, New Zealand, 2020
Scents of new season peach then quince, ripe grapefruit, no mistaking the mineral layer enhanced with a suggestion of wild white flowers. Delicious, weighty, vibrant...
2020
Easthope Family Winegrowers
Escarpment, Chardonnay, Wairarapa, New Zealand, 2020
There’s always an immediate complexity, finesse and elegance about the wines from Escarpment, and this Chardonnay exemplifies that with layers of ripe citrus and wood...
2020
Escarpment
Mount Brown, Grand Reserve Chardonnay, North Canterbury, Canterbury, New Zealand, 2020
Fantastic bouquet, aromas of gunmetal and leesy spices, roasted nut and stone fruits, baking spices. Complex, youthful and very inviting. Full-bodied, youthful, fresh, complex and...
2020
Mount BrownNorth Canterbury
Neudorf, Rosie’s Block Chardonnay, Nelson, New Zealand, 2020
Fantastic bouquet, ripe yellow-fleshed stone fruit and leesy complexity, a mix of older and new barrel scents and a natural harmonious complexity. Inviting, youthful and...
2020
Neudorf
Smith & Sheth, Cru Chardonnay, Hawke’s Bay, New Zealand, 2020
A sophisticated, pure and silky-textured bouquet, fresh peach and red apple, salty air and a clay stone mineral quality. The oak seam is noticeable but...
2020
Smith & Sheth
Tony Bish, Golden Egg Chardonnay, Hawke’s Bay, New Zealand, 2020
Intriguing and complex, fine lees and pure fruit aromas lead to flavours of the same on the palate, with a core of grapefruit and peach,...
2020
Tony Bish
Two Rivers, Clos des Pierres Chardonnay, Marlborough, New Zealand, 2020
Fascinating bouquet and palate, modern, texture-laden and fragrant. Aromas and flavours of apple and grapefruit, white peach and quince, a core of minerality with a...
2020
Two Rivers
Black Barn Vineyards, Barrel Chardonnay, Hawke’s Bay, New Zealand, 2020
Complex and very sophisticated bouquet with aromas of fresh apricot and red apple, peach and lees complexity, a fine layer of wood spices and white...
2020
Black Barn Vineyards
Trinity Hill, 125 Gimblett Chardonnay, Hawke’s Bay, New Zealand, 2020
Smoky, toasty and complex bouquet, a touch of burnt butter and brazil nut, roasted yellow orchard fruits and baked citrus, stone and sand-like earthy qualities...
2020
Trinity Hill
Butterworth, Julicher Te Muna Chardonnay, Martinborough, Wairarapa, New Zealand, 2020
A complex and alluring bouquet that increases in intensity as the wine open up in glass. Aromas of peach and quince, apple and grapefruit ten...
2020
ButterworthMartinborough
Framingham, Chardonnay, Marlborough, New Zealand, 2020
Fantastic bouquet with aromas of ripe citrus and stone fruits, new and older oak with a mix of toasty barrel and raw sugar [new wood]...
2020
Framingham
Matahiwi, Holly Chardonnay, Wairarapa, New Zealand, 2020
Wonderful bouquet of spice and fruit, mineral and silty soils signatures. Full-bodied on the palate with a complex roasted nut, burnt butter and barrel spice...
2020
Matahiwi
Stonecroft, Chardonnay, Gimblett Gravels, Hawke’s Bay, New Zealand, 2020
Bold, toasty, fruity and youthful bouquet with aromas of baked custard and peaches, fresh red apple and vanilla, greywacke stones and toasty oak, baked grapefruit...
2020
StonecroftGimblett Gravels
Te Pa, Chardonnay, Marlborough, New Zealand, 2020
Very enticing bouquet with aromas of roasted brazil nut, a moment of butterscotch, roasted stone fruits, raw cashew, smoky toasty vanilla oak scents and nutty...
2020
Te Pa
Te Whare Ra, Chardonnay, Marlborough, New Zealand, 2020
Youthful, vibrant, fresh, pure and varietal bouquet with aromas of white fleshed stone fruits, lemon and grapefruit ,a whisper of tropical fruit and spices of...
2020
Te Whare Ra
The Boneline, Barebone Chardonnay, Waipara Valley, Canterbury, New Zealand, 2020
Fresh, bright, youthful, mineral and fresh citrus centric bouquet. Enticing and varietal. There’s a wonderful sense of place with this wine showcasing aromas and flavours...
2020
The BonelineWaipara Valley
Chard Farm, Judge & Jury Chardonnay, Central Otago, New Zealand, 2020
Pure, fresh, ripe, youthful and distinctive bouquet led by aromas of crushed stone mineral and citrus scents, a light elegant seam of oak, apple, pink...
2020
Chard Farm
Kahurangi Estate, Mt Arthur Reserve Chardonnay, Nelson, New Zealand, 2020
Toasty roasted stone fruits and vanilla pod with aromas of brazil and cashew nut, baked apple and lifted perfume of white flowers. A bouquet of...
2020
Kahurangi Estate
Marisco, The King's Bastard Chardonnay, Waihopai Valley, Marlborough, New Zealand, 2020
Aromas of toasty roasted peach and vanilla, brazil nut and rose-apple, a hint of butterscotch and toasty barrel spices. Full-bodied, weighty and creamy in texture...
2020
MariscoWaihopai Valley
Paddy Borthwick, Chardonnay, Wairarapa, New Zealand, 2020
Immediately recognisable style with aromas of ripe yellow stone fruits and grapefruit peel, kitchen baking spices and a core roasted nut complexity. Vanilla and apricot,...
2020
Paddy Borthwick
Squawking Magpie, Gravels Chardonnay, Hawke’s Bay, New Zealand, 2020
Aromas of roasted stone fruits, a cashew nut and toasty barrel complexity, kitchen spices of vanilla and cinnamon accentuated by a warm stone mineral quality....
2020
Squawking Magpie
Whitehaven, Chardonnay, Marlborough, New Zealand, 2020
Aromas of white fruits from peach to apple, pear then lemon. Oak and barrel scents of brown spices, new wood moments and a youthful, fine...
2020
Whitehaven
