Five Tuscan vintages to drink now

Portrayed by sun-soaked landscapes, Tuscany appears to be an idyllic place to grow grapes. It is. But that doesn’t mean it is immune to vintage variation. Like many regions around the globe, Tuscany has experienced even greater extremes in the last couple of decades – from unseasonably cool, rainy weather one year to heatwave and drought the next.

There are also differences between Tuscany’s various regions. The coastal area of Bolgheri is more temperate than the hilly inland zones. And there, Chianti Classico and Chianti Rùfina are cooler than the more southerly reaches of Montalcino and Montepulciano. Within each, microclimates vary according to elevation, exposure and rainfall patterns. And while Sangiovese reigns supreme, international varieties like Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot are responsible for some of Tuscany’s superstars.

Scroll down for Michaela Morris’ top Tuscan selections to enjoy right now

Vintages may therefore favour one grape or region over another, though broad generalisations can be made. The most challenging vintages typically represent earlier maturing years. Thankfully, these are never a complete write-off and may even offer delightful surprises to enjoy alongside those stellar vintages when they finally come around. The following are my recommendations of which of these to focus on now.

2014

Though 2014 was notoriously cool and wet, the most accomplished wines achieved sufficient ripeness boasting finesse and fragrance. They are lighter framed and Sangiovese in particular is already showing maturing notes of tobacco and tea.

While a handful of Brunello need a couple more years, most are approachable now. Canalicchio di Sopra, Lisini and Sesti are among successful examples of these. Some producers refrained from making Brunello altogether downgrading the grapes to Rosso di Montalcino. Both Costanti’s Vermiglio and Giulio Salvioni’s Rosso are drinking brilliantly at the moment.

Similarly, annata from Chianti Classico are ready to crack open. The excellent value Rocca di Montegrossi is pure pleasure. Most Riserva and Gran Selezione are also ready though may be overpowered by oak. Nevertheless, I recently and thoroughly enjoyed San Giusto a Rentennano Le Baròncole Riserva and Castello di Ama San Lorenzo Gran Selezione.

Conditions were equally challenging on the Tuscan Coast. Cab-based Bordeaux blends are quite angular. Even the laudable Sassicaia is best enjoyed over the next few years. Merlot-led wines seem to have performed better but are decidedly less sumptuous than warmer years.

My recommendation is to err on the side of opening this vintage soon rather than waiting too long.

2011

A sudden heatwave in August changed the course of this vintage. Exposed grapes suffered berry shrivel and careful sorting was necessary to avoid overtly prune-like flavours. Recent tastings suggest that many of the wines are ageing relatively rapidly. Better to get to these before they tip.

The silver lining is that wines which generally take many years to reveal their charms – Biondi-Santi Brunello Riserva, Montsanto ‘Il Poggio’ Chianti Classico Riserva and Selvapiana ‘Bucerchiale’ Chianti Rùfina are ‘forward’ by these estates’ standards.

Other highlights include the coolest pockets of Chianti Classico. From the elevated reaches of Lamole, I Fabbri’s Lamole Chianti Classico is still fresh and pretty. Up a few notches in complexity is Castello di Ama’s Gran Selezione from the Vigneto Bellavista at 525 metres above sea level.

Most Brunello have already come into their drinking window and will give maximum gratification over the next 4-5 years. Top wines, like Salicutti will continue to drink well for another decade.

Finally, while earlier ripening Merlot suffered in the heat, Cabernet Sauvignon tended to ripen more evenly. There are some very age-worthy wines from top names in Bolgheri but Antinori’s Guado al Tasso is hard to resist now.

2009

Another very warm vintage, 2009 is characterised by a seductive softness. It may be criticised for not having long-haul structure, however the best wines offer ripe fruit with balancing acidity – more so than 2011. Many of the Sangiovese-based examples I have tried are not just ready to drink but are in a particularly attractive phase. Exuberant primary fruit is giving way to developing tertiary nuances. Cases in point; Fontodi Flacianello as well as Gianni Brunelli and Costanti’s Brunello – but these are by no means at the end of their life. Similarly, Monteraponi Baron Ugo as well as Montevertine and Le Pergole Torte all showed splendidly at a 10-year retrospective lunch.

There are even some Rosso di Montalcino that are still going strong as demonstrated by Col d’Orcia (albeit served from double magnum) though overall best to drink these up. The same can be said for the Fèlsina Colonia Chianti Classico Gran Selezione.

2005

Flanked by the superb 2004 and 2006, 2005 paled in comparison. A vintage of two faces, it was warm and dry early summer then turned rainy and cool (with pockets of hail) leading up to harvest. Tannin ripeness was a struggle for Sangiovese, particularly in the hilly areas of Chianti Classico and Montalcino. Montepulciano and the Tuscan coast fared marginally better.

With a slighter build, many wines are already a bit frayed – with exceptions of course. Producers who made a strict selection in the vineyard and put efforts into one wine (meaning no Riserva or single vineyard bottling) managed to make wines that still offer much drinking pleasure today. These include Ciacci Piccolomini’s Brunello di Montalcino, Tignanello as well as Bolgheri’s Cab-led Sassicaia and Ornellaia.

Tasting a couple of intriguing Vin Santo – Boscarelli in Montepulciano and Fèlsina in Chianti Classico – served as a good reminder not to forget about these in the cellar!

All in all, this is a vintage to drink up.

1999

A vintage worth the wait, 1999 has long been compared to 1997. With greater opulence and power, 1997 was initially more highly touted. To my palate, however, 1999 has aged more gracefully. Though both warm years, the cooler nights of 1999 helped preserve freshness. At 20 years old, the wines don’t necessarily need further ageing but top wines will continue drinking well for years to come. Don’t hesitate to reward your patience.

Brunellos packed with tannin have come around as demonstrated by both Col d’Orcia’s Brunello and Poggio al Vento Riserva. Vino Nobile are still fiercely structured but Valdipiatta ‘Vigna d’Alfiero’ has the flesh to balance. Antinori’s 1999 Solaia was a standout at a vertical tasting and my choice for a glass over lunch. As for Chianti Classico, top selections like Fontodi’s Vigna del Sorbo and Monsanto Il Poggio Riserva are drinking beautifully now and even well-made annata will reward savvy collectors. The same can be said for Chianti’s subzone of Rùfina.

See Michaela’s top Tuscan selections

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