Franciacorta: Panel tasting results

Andy Howard MW, Jason Millar and Federico Moccia tasted 45 wines, with 2 Outstanding and 15 Highly Recommended

Franciacorta: Panel tasting scores

45 wines tasted

Exceptional 0

Outstanding 2

Highly recommended 15

Recommended 25

Commended 3

Entry criteria: producers and UK agents were invited to submit their non-vintage, white Franciacorta wines, in any style, though not including Franciacorta Satèn.

This tasting represented a significant cross-section of the 122 producers affiliated with the Franciacorta consorzio in northern Italy’s Lombardy region. More than a third of the wines tasted were awarded the equivalent of gold or silver medals, with two scoring 95-points (see recommendations).

The average across all wines tasted topped 89-points, demonstrating the consistency of this relatively young DOCG.

Although it has been a wine-producing region for many years, the area around lake Iseo was historically dominated by red wines. The first traditional-method sparkling wine was produced in 1961 and it was recognised as a DOC in 1967, followed by elevation to DOCG in 1995.

Franciacorta was the first Italian sparkling wine to attain DOCG status, yet the regional consorzio was only created in 1990.

Scroll down to see notes and scores of the best non-vintage Franciacorta wines

Similar to but different

Sometimes referred to as Italy’s answer to Champagne, the style of Franciacorta is quite different to that of its better-known French counterpart. Fellow judge Federico Moccia noted the creamier texture and riper, stone fruit characters of Franciacorta compared to those from the cooler Champagne region, which can often produce more forcefully acidic wines.

Franciacorta must be produced from a majority of Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, although Pinot Blanc is permitted (up to 50% for non-vintage) as is, since 2017, the local variety Erbamat (up to a maximum of 10%). Non-vintage wines must spend a minimum of 18 months ageing on lees.

Jason Millar felt that there was ‘a lot of consistency’ within the non-vintage category, although he was less convinced by the zero dosage/brut nature wines. He noted that ‘brut and extra brut were the stronger wines’, while also seeing positives in wines with a higher proportion of Pinot Noir in the blend.

He observed that: ‘Wines with Pinot Blanc and, to a greater extent Pinot Noir, showed extra acidity and structure.’

See all the wines from the Franciacorta tasting

Dry styles show room for improvement

The zero-dosage category showed more variability, with some wines showing either a reductive edge or oak influence that seemed out of balance. Overall, the wines are drinking well now and, with few exceptions, should be enjoyed over the next couple of years. Moccia noted that with the main market being in Milan, only 12% of Franciacorta production is exported.

However, many UK-based Italian importers are extending their ranges and now is a good time to try a wider variety of wines from the area.

Moccia felt that producers are now managing their acidity better than before, with purer, crisper wines being produced. He concluded that they are ‘good quality, easy to drink wines, with autolytic integration and more crunchy acidity than in the past’.

The sparkling wines of Franciacorta are well worth trying, whether they’re the non-vintage wines tasted in this panel tasting, or vintage, Satèn (brut, bottled at a maximum pressure of five atmospheres) or rosé tiers. Many of the producers are very small and, as Millar observed, ‘one could draw comparisons with grower Champagnes’.

This is a high-quality, evolving category with a lot to commend it.

Non-vintage Franciacorta panel tasting scores

Wines were tasted blind

The judges

Andy Howard MW is a Decanter contributing editor and DWWA Regional Chair. A retail wine buyer for more than 30 years, he now runs his own consultancy, Vinetrades, focusing on wine education, judging, investment and sourcing

Jason Millar is a freelance wine writer, consultant, judge and communicator, with a focus on Italy and South Africa. He has a background in buying, importing and sales, and in 2016 was the top WSET Diploma graduate worldwide

Federico Moccia is head sommelier at London private member’s club 67 Pall Mall. Originally from Brescia in northern Italy, he is an advocate for Italian wine, as well as a DWWA judge and a contributor to decanter.com

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