Gimblett Gravels 2018: Assessing the vintage

While we might think of the Gimblett Gravels as a sub-region of New Zealand’s Hawke’s Bay, it actually has no specific geographic indication or appellation status.

Gimblett Gravels is in fact a brand name. It was formed by winegrowers who own the 850 hectares of vines in this district, all planted on what is a very distinct terroir.

Scroll down for tasting notes and scores of the 12 wines from the 2018 Gimblett Gravels selection

The Ngaruroro River laid down these famous gravels. It once flowed through the region, but changed course after a massive flood in 1867, exposing the alluvial deposits.

Vines were first planted in 1981 by CJ Pask, but the industry didn’t take off until a decade later. In 1992 just 20ha was under vine; by 1998 it was 200ha and today it is 850ha.

The Gimblett Gravels Winegrowers Association (GGWA) was set up in 2001 and comprises about 30 paying members. They can put ‘Gimblett Gravels’ on wine labels if a minimum of 95% of their grapes come from the district.

Red grapes comprise 90% of plantings, currently led by Merlot (about 35%), followed by Syrah (20%), Cabernet Sauvignon (15%), Malbec (7%) and Cabernet Franc (4%).

However Warren Gibson of Trinity Hill says Syrah and the two Cabernets are increasingly becoming more important as growers realise that Merlot has less affinity with the stony, gravelly soils.

The 2018 vintage

Recently, Decanter joined Gibson and Master of Wine Rebecca Gibb on a virtual tasting of the 12 reds from 2018 chosen for the Gimblett Gravels Annual Vintage Selection.

For the past 11 years, the GGWA has asked Master of Wine Andrew Caillard to pick 12 wines he feels best represents the region that harvest.

From the 2018 vintage, Caillard – co-founder of Australian wine auction house Langton’s – chose six Bordeaux blends and six Syrahs.

Following a mild, frost-free spring and warm, dry end to 2017, a scorching January made 2018 the hottest summer since records began in 1935.

The biggest challenge for growers was the high humidity and disease pressure just before harvest, following heavy rainfall in mid March.

Gibson, who has worked 25 harvests in Gimblett Gravels, said 2018 was a vintage of two halves. If growers got to 1 April, disease pressures dropped with overnight temperatures, and grapes could be picked at optimal ripeness.

Merlot suffered in the humidity, but Cabernet with its thick skins held strong. Those who took a punt and picked Syrah late were rewarded.

Gibson said while 2018 was a ‘very very good’ vintage, wine lovers should look out for what’s to come.

‘I know it’s a classic winemaker statement, but 2019 and 2020 are even better,’ he said. ‘We’ve had three great seasons in a row; it will be an argument in time as to which is better.’

See the tasting notes and scores for the 2018 Gimblett Gravels vintage selection:

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