Grand-Puy Ducasse: The Pauillac estate turning a corner

Although designated a Fifth Growth in the 1855 Classification, Château Grand-Puy Ducasse is unlikely to feature high on a list of most desirable purchases for Pauillac fans.

Perhaps this is down to its location (the château is situated in ‘downtown’ Pauillac) so doesn’t conform to the classical image of names such as Château Latour, Château Lafite or Château Mouton-Rothschild, graced by elegant buildings and surrounded by glorious vineyards.

Or perhaps it is simply down to the fact that the wine has a reputation for failing to deliver the same intensity and excitement as many other Pauillac classed growths.

Scroll down to see notes and scores for Andy Howard MW’s picks of recent Grand-Puy Ducasse vintages

Work in progress

At a recent masterclass in London, Director and Winemaker Anne Le Naour led a group of sommeliers through the 10-year project which Grand-Puy Ducasse has named ‘Renaissance.’

The work started in 2011 and reached a significant point in 2023, with the first harvest vinified in the new winery.

Initial impressions are that the team seem to be on the right track, although this is more of a ‘work in progress’ rather than the finished article at this stage.

The estate originated in 1675 with the acquisition of a family home on the Left Bank of the Gironde River, followed by expansion of vineyards over the next century, culminating in 1820.

One hundred years after being classified a Fifth Growth, Grand-Puy Ducasse launched its second-wine, Prélude, in 1955.

But, despite many changes, the estate and vineyards fell into decline, leading to the sale in 1971 to Mestrezet-Preller (a wine merchant connected with Cordier).

It is fair to say that, in recent decades, the wines of Grand-Puy Ducasse have failed to excite writers and consumers.

In 2003, Hugh Johnson wrote that, ‘the wines here have often lacked flair.’

Things had not improved in 2012, when Stephen Brook commented that Grand-Puy Ducasse was, ‘a wine that plays safe and rarely sets the pulses racing.’

Renaissance

In 2005 Grand-Puy Ducasse was purchased by Crédit Agricole Grands Crus, leading to significant investment in both vineyards, vinification and the tourist experience.

In the same year Crédit Agricole acquired Château Meyney in Saint-Estèphe, transforming it into a property which today substantially over-delivers.

The team are aiming to weave this same magic at the Pauillac estate. The highly respected Le Naour (along with Estate Manager Benjamin Cassoulet) are clear that the key to the Renaissance project involves a dual approach.

Investments in new production facilities are allowing the team to fully express the differences of the diverse plots which make up Grand-Puy Ducasse’s vineyards.

The estate has five key sectors all, according to Le Naour, having different roles to play both now and in the future.

The northern sector (adjacent to Pontet-Canet and Mouton-Rothschild) lies on gravelly hilltops, with the classic Grand-Puy sector to the west of the Gironde being characterised by gravelly sandy soil over a clay base, with many outcrops of pebbles.

Further west, the Artigues terroir is dominated by Merlot, while younger Cabernet Sauvignon vines (planted in the Pichon sector to the south) point to the future.

Finally, south-west of Pauillac, the Batailley sector is home to Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and 6% Petit Verdot – a variety Le Naour has high hopes for.

The right direction

Work to completely change the château and winery took 10 years to gain planning permission, given its location in the centre of Pauillac.

The newly expanded vat room now hosts 46 double-skinned steel vats ranging from 30 hectolitres to 129hl, together with seven concrete vats for blending/ageing.

A focus on individual plot selection is seen as key, with Merlot still playing a key role in the distinctive style of Grand-Puy Ducasse.

The masterclass confirmed that the changes are moving the estate in the right direction.

And while Grand-Puy Ducasse remains ‘under the radar’ there should be potential for some smart buys over the next few years.

This is a Fifth Growth to keep a close eye on.

Grand-Puy Ducasse: Pick of recent vintages

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