Greek Xinomavro: expert’s choice

Latterly considered the king of Greek grape varieties, Xinomavro’s protagonist role can be attributed to several factors.

First, the distinctive, heavily scented wines it makes have abundant Greek aromas of dried tomatoes, olive tapenade and thyme, around a core of cherries or strawberries.

Second, it can produce some of the country’s most thrilling and highly refined wines. Finally, the wines can age effortlessly for, without exaggeration, more than two decades.

Scroll down to see tasting notes and scores for 18 top Greek Xinomavro wines

Greatness comes at a cost, as Xinomavro is a capricious variety that requires attention and affection by both the grower and the producer.

In the vineyard, the main issue faced is the taming of its high natural yields and the ripening of its fierce tannins. In the winery, the challenge is avoiding over-extraction and stabilising its pale colour, as the variety is low in anthocyanins.

Just like the ultimate diva Maria Callas, who had a compelling and even controversial voice capable of performing many different tones, Xinomavro can produce an astonishing range of styles. The most celebrated sparkling wines of the country originate from Xinomavro vines in cool-climate Amyndeo, also the source of some of the most contemporary rosé wines. Reds made with Xinomavro span an assortment of styles, and there are even a few sweet wines produced.

Origin story

Independent of style, all share a common thread; they can immediately transport you to their place of origin. In northerly Macedonia, distinctive olive and herbal aromas alongside a firm tannic structure point straight in the direction of the clay and granitic soils of Naoussa, whereas bright cherries and crunchy acidity are characteristic of the highlands (700m) of Amyndeo, with its lighter sandy soils, and Siatista (950m) further south.

With 25km between them, Naoussa and Amyndeo are often described together, as if they were one, but this is an injustice. If Naoussa were, for instance, Barolo from the village of Castiglione Falletto or Serralunga d’Alba, Amyndeo would be from La Morra, producing wines of a more delicate, aromatic and refined expression. In fact, many claim there is an organoleptic resemblance between Xinomavro and Piedmont’s Nebbiolo grape.

Xinomavro is often blended with both native and international varieties. In such a blend, it is the proportion used that will be the overriding factor governing the style of the wine that results – the more Xinomavro, the more structured the wine. This could be relevant, for example, to a Goumenissa in Macedonia, which blends Xinomavro with a minimum of 20% local variety Negoska, adding fruit and colour; or to a Rapsani from the foothills of Mount Olympus. The latter is a blend made up of the three varieties Xinomavro, Krassato and Stavroto; the amount of each in the blend is not officially specified, though the proportions are often roughly equal.

Ten years ago, Xinomavro was the black sheep of the Greek vineyards, appreciated by few and drunk by even fewer. It was often accused of showing relentless tannins and a hollow mid-palate. Today it has evolved into a finer, more aromatic, balanced and, may I say, complete wine. A dramatic turnaround. Just choose your preferred style, and Xinomavro will not let you down.

Yiannis Karakasis MW’s top Greek Xinomavro

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