Jane Anson’s 30 best-value organic & biodynamic wines
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Shoppers the world over have embraced organic produce, but for wine the adoption process seems to be advancing at a slower pace. Jane Anson comes to the rescue with 30 great buys, all under £30...
The idea of buying locally, cooking with seasonal ingredients and supporting responsible farming has become so embedded in food culture as to barely raise an eyebrow these days.
And yet there is still far less acceptance of this with wine, even though – as with food – plenty of bottles are produced for a mass audience, with shortcuts taken along the way to ensure they taste good without costing a fortune to make.I wanted to write a book to celebrate the winemakers who rally against this.
To highlight those who treat their workers fairly, who reduce or eliminate their carbon emissions, who plant hedgerows and encourage biodiversity, who use grapes that are indigenous to their regions rather than importing the big-name international varieties, who use as little as possible in terms of additions.
The idea of a ‘wine revolution’ to describe this seems a little overblown. There’s no shared manifesto exactly; of course there are rules and regulations for farming without chemicals, whether organically or biodynamically, but each winemaker interprets them according to their own vineyard needs.
But there is a shared commitment to heightening the honest link between the land where the wine is produced and the final liquid in the glass. And to do it while protecting the rights of future generations to do the same thing.
Scroll down to see all 30 wines
Honestly, it’s hard to think of a more enjoyable book to write, and I feel so lucky to have been able to spend so many months researching, visiting and tasting with these winemakers. I was also given invaluable advice from experts such as soil consultants Claude and Lydia Bourguignon, and from many wonderful and inspiring sommeliers such as Pascaline Lepeltier MS, Ronan Sayburn MS and Caleb Ganzer, who shared their suggestions with me and offered brilliant food pairing ideas. The aim is to have a book that joins the dots between food and wine culture, and to show that caring about provenance and quality ingredients should apply as much to our glasses as our plates.
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As I have looked for the best examples, you’ll find Cristal Champagne and wines from Domaine de la Romanée-Conti, Henschke, Humbrecht, Joly and Leflaive, and plenty of other world-class names.
But there’s no need to spend serious money to get brilliant organic or biodynamic bottles. I found some incredible value in Argentina, Austria, France, Sicily, Spain and more that are listed on these pages. With all priced at under £30 (and many far less), these are wines bursting with flavour and vitality that you can feel good about sharing.
30 great value organic & biodynamic wines:
Jane Anson is Decanter’s Bordeaux correspondent and an awarded author and columnist. These wines are taken from her new book Wine Revolution, released in October 2017.
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Matteo Correggia, Roche d'Ampsej, Roero, Riserva, Piedmont, Italy, 2011

I first heard about the brilliant Matteo Correggia when I entered a Barolo wine shop to ask about must-see producers. This 100% Nebbiolo is grown...
2011
PiedmontItaly
Matteo CorreggiaRoero
Fleury, Blanc de Noirs Brut, Aube, Champagne, France

Generous nose of praline and mango; the palate is finely-honed, crisp and with compatible acidity and a nicely structured finish - some potential here.
ChampagneFrance
FleuryAube
Meinklang, Graupert Pinot Gris, Burgenland, Austria, 2015

95
Stood out as easily one of the most enjoyable in a Decanter tasting of more than 100 biodynamic, organic and natural wines, and has delivered again in several retastings. Juicy apricot, nectarine and spiced peaches, with a smoky hazelnut edging. Unfiltered and low sulphur.
2015
BurgenlandAustria
Meinklang
Palacio de Canedo, Godello, Bierzo, Spain, 2015

Godello is definitely having its moment, but this one is much cheaper than some of its rivals. Harvested by hand and fermented with indigenous yeasts...
2015
BierzoSpain
Palacio de Canedo
Domaine Marcel Lapierre, Beaujolais, Morgon, Burgundy, France, 2016

Marcel Lapierre is something of a hero to the natural wine movement, and his Morgon has been called The Original Natural Wine. This delivers star-bright,...
2016
BurgundyFrance
Domaine Marcel LapierreBeaujolais
Paxton Vineyards, Quandong Farm Single Vineyard Shiraz, McLaren Vale, South Australia, Australia, 2015

David Paxton is one of Australia’s top biodynamic winemakers, and Quandong Farm was the first of his vineyards to be converted. This single vineyard highlights...
2015
South AustraliaAustralia
Paxton VineyardsMcLaren Vale
Occhipinti, SP68, Sicily, Italy, 2015

This is a light, crunchy and supple wine with beautiful bitter herb and nettle notes. Nero d’Avola and Frappato, farmed biodynamically since 2009, are left...
2015
SicilyItaly
Occhipinti
Gulfi, Nerobufaleffj, Sicily, Italy, 2011

Gulfi’s wines are unpretentious, good value and packed with personality. This Nero d’Avola is intensely herbal, rich and intense with ripe blackberry and raspberry fruits...
2011
SicilyItaly
Gulfi
Salvo Foti, I Vigneri Vinupetra, Etna, Sicily, Italy, 2014

Part of a project Foti founded between Etna’s local grape growers. From vines at 700m on the north side of the volcano, where winters get...
2014
SicilyItaly
Salvo FotiEtna
Pierre Frick, Blanc de Noir, Crémant d’Alsace, Alsace, France, 2011

Organic since 1970 and biodynamic since 1981. For my money, Alsace is home to the best crémants in France, and this is a particularly delicious...
2011
AlsaceFrance
Pierre FrickCrémant d’Alsace
Angiolino Maule, La Biancara Pico, Veneto, Italy, 2015

Angiolino Maule founded the Vinatur project, supporting natural wines. 100% Garganega, a local variety whose singing minerality shines through here. Wild yeast-fermented, aged for 12...
2015
VenetoItaly
Angiolino Maule
Benoît Courault, La Coulée, Anjou, Loire, France, 2015

Recommended by master sommelier Pascaline Lepeltier. Grown on 40-year-old vines on a few hectares just outside Anjou, La Coulée is made from the Grolleau grape....
2015
LoireFrance
Benoît CouraultAnjou
Louis Claude Desvignes, Javernières, Beaujolais, Morgon, Burgundy, France, 2015

You can’t go wrong with wines from this family, now in its eighth generation. A long fermentation with (mostly) whole bunches gives a good depth...
2015
BurgundyFrance
Louis Claude DesvignesBeaujolais
Fèlsina, Berardenga, Chianti Classico, Tuscany, Italy, 2011

I tracked this down after Eric Asimov of The New York Times said it was one of his everyday drinking favourites. So glad I did,...
2011
TuscanyItaly
FèlsinaChianti Classico
Suertes del Marques, La Solana, Valle de la Orotava, Tenerife, Spain, 2013

This powerful, mineral red has a freshness and clarity to its dark fruit flavours. It is made with 100% ungrafted Listán Negro grapes (from vines...
2013
TenerifeSpain
Suertes del MarquesValle de la Orotava
Casa de Mouraz, ALR, Vinho Verde, Portugal, 2016

This wine shows we should stop underestimating the potential of Vinho Verde’s granite soils that lie so close to the Atlantic Ocean. Casa de Mouraz...
2016
Vinho VerdePortugal
Casa de Mouraz
AmByth, Maiestas, Paso Robles, California, USA, 2012

A wonderful estate boasting olive trees, fruit trees, bees, chickens and dairy cows – as well as organically farmed vines. This has a touch of...
2012
CaliforniaUSA
AmBythPaso Robles
Cuatro Manos, Vino de la Cordillère Malbec, Uco Valley, Tupungato, Mendoza, Argentina, 2014

This is from grapes grown at 1,400m, vinified in concrete with 30% whole bunches. There’s black pepper spice, raspberries and stunning garrigue aromatics. Alcohol levels...
2014
MendozaArgentina
Cuatro ManosUco Valley
Coto de Gomariz, Ribeiro, Spain, 2015

A blend of Treixadura, Godello, Loureira and Albariño – four grapes native to this region –vinified in stainless steel at low temperatures and with no...
2015
RibeiroSpain
Coto de Gomariz
Dr Bürklin-Wolf, Wachenheimer Riesling Trocken, Pfalz, Germany, 2016

Prices for this producer head way up, but this one is brilliant value. The largely volcanic soil vineyards are all farmed without herbicides or pesticides....
2016
PfalzGermany
Dr Bürklin-Wolf
La Mesma, Indi, Gavi, Piedmont, Italy, 2015

I first tasted these wines at Slow Wine in Piedmont, and have since got to know the three Rosina sisters behind it. Grapes for this...
2015
PiedmontItaly
La MesmaGavi
Château Romanin, Rosé, Baux-de-Provence, Provence, France, 2015

An excellent rosé, balancing minerality and tension with elegant red berry fruits. From a blend of Grenache, Counoise and Syrah, there is clear salinity on...
2015
ProvenceFrance
Château RomaninBaux-de-Provence
Cooper Mountain, Johnson School Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley, Oregon, USA, 2014

Ronan Sayburn MS suggests pairing this with duck breast, lentils and bacon. A perfect match for the slight sweetness and ripe red fruits. Totally moreish,...
2014
OregonUSA
Cooper MountainWillamette Valley
Albet i Noya, Nosodos Reserva Brut Natural, Penedès, Penedès, Spain, 2013

DO Clàssic Penedès is a fully organic appellation created in 2016. Made in the traditional method, this is a blend of Xarel-lo, Chardonnay, Macabeu and...
2013
PenedèsSpain
Albet i NoyaPenedès
Vale de Capucha, Arinto, Lisboa, Portugal, 2015

90
A single-vineyard wine. Old barrels, so minimum oak impact, fermented with natural yeasts and kept on the lees to build up body and texture. Focuses more on wild herb flavours than easy fruitiness. Saline grip that cradles a citrus and spiced pineapple body. No fining or filtering, and minimal sulphur.
2015
LisboaPortugal
Vale de Capucha
Domaine Richaud, Terres de Galets, Côtes du Rhône, Rhône, France, 2015

Utterly delicious, easy-to-drink, great-value Rhône. You get the spice, the dirt, the juice-filled red fruits, the herbs and the grip of a Rhône Syrah, at...
2015
RhôneFrance
Domaine RichaudCôtes du Rhône
Familia Cecchin, Graciana, Maipú, Mendoza, Argentina, 2014

A fascinating wine, and great value. Made using whole-bunch vinification, unoaked and bottled with no added sulphur. A beautifully fragrant Graciano: light, graceful and vibrant,...
2014
MendozaArgentina
Familia CecchinMaipú
Matetic, Corralillo Sauvignon Blanc, San Antonio, Chile, 2016

89
Excellent value for this organic (since 2004) and biodynamically certified (now across all 120ha) wine. Full of bright citrus and soft apricot fruit. Begs to be cracked open and paired with a fresh goat’s cheese salad.
2016
San AntonioChile
Matetic
Jane Anson was Decanter’s Bordeaux correspondent until 2021 and has lived in the region since 2003. She writes a monthly wine column for Hong Kong’s South China Morning Post, and is the author of Bordeaux Legends: The 1855 First Growth Wines (also published in French as Elixirs). In addition, she has contributed to the Michelin guide to the Wine Regions of France and was the Bordeaux and Southwest France author of The Wine Opus and 1000 Great Wines That Won’t Cost a Fortune. An accredited wine teacher at the Bordeaux École du Vin, Anson holds a masters in publishing from University College London, and a tasting diploma from the Bordeaux faculty of oenology.
Roederer awards 2016: International Feature Writer of the Year
