Krug’s Clos du Mesnil tasted: 1979 to 2003
Champagne expert and Decanter World Wine Awards Regional Chair, Richard Juhlin, has been fortunate enough to have sampled the vintage collection of Krug’s famous blanc de blancs, Clos du Mesnil, on two recent occasions. Here's what he thought of the wines...
Why Clos du Mesnil deserves a place in Champagne’s hall of fame
The first eight vintages of its Chardonnay were included in the blend of Krug’s non-vintage Grande Cuvée, but in 1979 its sheer class and personality persuaded the family to bottle it separately – and a legend was born.
Scroll down to see Richard’s Clos du Mesnil tasting notes & scores
For me, there is nothing more beautiful on the palate than Clos du Mesnil’s velvet smoothness, fragrant nobility and citrus-fresh length, thanks to fruit from Champagne’s most distinguished grand cru in combination with brilliant winemaking from one of the finest and most prestigious Champagne houses of them all.
Clos du Mesnil has very distinct similarities to the mountain-stream-pure Salon and the mandarin-dominated Pierre Péters Les Chètillons, both also from Mesnil-sur-Oger. However, Krug combines these two with an almost indescribable and unmistakable fragrance of nobility.
It is only made in miniscule quantities when quality is considered to be outstanding, with an average of 12,000 bottles per vintage.
The grapes are divided into six parts and barreled individually at the Clos these days. This contributes to the wine’s innate complexity and identifies the unique significance of this tiny, perfect piece of vineyard.
Clos du Mesnil vertical – the ratings:
Please not that the 2002 vintage was not tasted. Click on the wines to see full tasting notes and stockist information for US and UK, where available.
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Krug, Clos du Mesnil, Champagne, France, 2003
Even in this bad-tempered vintage, the earth-shaking minerality of Krug’s single-vineyard Clos du Mesnil could not be dampened. It utterly trumps the phenolic grip of...
2003
Krug
Krug, Clos du Mesnil, Champagne, France, 2000
At first, this exhibited alluring tropical passion fruit notes. But five years ago, it was transformed into a more honed and classical Clos du Mesnil....
2000
Krug
Krug, Clos du Mesnil, Champagne, France, 1998
From the very start, everything was perfectly in place in the 1998. It remains; complex, developed, generous, rich and smooth – a magnificent wine which...
1998
Krug
Krug, Clos du Mesnil, Champagne, France, 1996
An extraordinary champagne. Profoundly intense and complex with a fabulously opulent texture and nougat infused depth. A dazzling effort which still needs several more years...
1996
Krug
Krug, Clos du Mesnil, Champagne, France, 1995
Great purity, acidity and a charming apple fruitiness with almond and walnut oil notes in the background. But it lacks the sumptuous sophistication of other...
1995
Krug
Krug, Clos du Mesnil, Champagne, France, 1992
Clos du Mesnil is defined by its all-enclosing high walls, without which this would be an ordinary piece of ground. Anyone who walks through Clos...
1992
Krug
Krug, Clos du Mesnil, Champagne, France, 1990
At first, slightly bitter and one-dimensional. But after 15 minutes, it comes to life, with a clear and surprising scent of spice, juniper, papaya, and...
1990
Krug
Krug, Clos du Mesnil, Champagne, France, 1989
The '89 is one of the richest and most delicious vintages ever produced from Clos du Mesnil. Purists may say that the wine is a...
1989
Krug
Krug, Clos du Mesnil, Champagne, France, 1988
Still extraordinarily young, taut, pure, silky and mineral fresh. This dances and darts across the palate like a ballerina, yet there is also a hidden...
1988
Krug
Krug, Clos du Mesnil, Champagne, France, 1986
Still remarkably youthful, delicate and fine-tuned. It’s also fully mature with a deep, classic walnut oil character, broad buttery depth and Batard-Montrachet-like style.
1986
Krug
Krug, Clos du Mesnil, Champagne, France, 1985
This is the absolute epitome of elegance, pleasure and sophistication. The balance, complexity and length here leave me awestruck. Its polished butteriness, flinty minerality and...
1985
Krug
Krug, Clos du Mesnil, Champagne, France, 1983
Mature, and the essence of Chardonnay. A vibrantly attractive limey citrus attack is supported by a lively acidity which is very much intact. The elegance,...
1983
Krug
Krug, Clos du Mesnil, Champagne, France, 1982
This was and is the wine of the vintage, which I find more Krug-like than Mesnil-like. The nose is exotic with oriental spice, toffee, honey,...
1982
Krug
Krug, Clos du Mesnil, Champagne, France, 1981
Early in its life this had a shy scent, pale colour and delicate citrus flavour. Today, thanks to its terroir and Krug’s savoir faire, it...
1981
Krug
Krug, Clos du Mesnil, Champagne, France, 1980
Only the second vintage of Clos de Mesnil, it staggers me how good and long-lived this remains. I’ve experienced some bottle variation, but the best...
1980
Krug
Krug, Clos du Mesnil, Champagne, France, 1979
Brilliantly crafted by Henri Krug this remains a near perfect blanc de blancs. The ultra-refined nose leans more to finesse than richness with juicy Cox's...
1979
Krug
