Margaret River Chardonnay: panel tasting results

Margaret-River-Chardonnay_Bottles — (Image credit: Credit Unknown)

Roger Jones, Justin Knock MW and Julia Sewell tasted 61 wines, with five Outstanding and 32 Highly recommended.

Margaret River Chardonnay panel tasting scores

61 wines tasted

Exceptional 0

Outstanding 5

Highly recommended 32

Recommended 22

Commended 2

Fair 0

Poor 0

Entry criteria: producers and UK agents were invited to submit their still, dry 100% Chardonnay wines from any part of the Margaret River region in Western Australia

For such a young wine region, Margaret River – Western Australia’s most important wine GI (Geographical Indication) – has made a big impact.

The first winery, Vasse Felix, was established only in 1967, quickly followed by others, but the focus was then on Cabernet Sauvignon. Chardonnay was not widely planted for another decade, with the first commercial bottling released at the end of the 1970s.

Scroll down to see tasting notes and scores for the top-scoring Margaret River Chardonnays

As with much of Australian wine then, early releases were big and oaky. However, for the past 20 years, Margaret River Chardonnays have shown increasing levels of refinement.

The best may not come cheap, but they do represent exceptional value for money when compared (as they often are) to top Burgundy.

‘I was pleased to see so many wines listed under £30 in this tasting, highlighting real quality at this price,’ said Julia Sewell.

Unlike white Burgundy, however, Margaret River Chardonnays are much more open in youth and drink well young. And, with the overwhelming majority sealed under screwcap, you can enjoy long-term peace of mind with these ageworthy investments.

Although Margaret River does not have any official sub-GIs, the judges agreed that more producers should note sub-regions on labels, believing it would give wine lovers better understanding of Margaret River as a whole.

‘I was impressed by the clear commitment to quality by producers in almost all the wines,’ noted Sewell. ‘And, for a large number, the sense of place was strongly apparent.’

Justin Knock MW agreed that the ‘overall standard of Margaret River Chardonnay remains extremely high’, but more than sub-regionality, it was the distinctive styles that stood out. ‘It’s great to see winemakers confident with oak and malolactic fermentation, using them to make wines with luscious texture while sidestepping the overuse of the past. Chardonnay enjoys a natural response with oak that is hugely enjoyable and should never be forgotten.’

The ‘more classical, tropical old-school wines’ impressed Roger Jones, who found the oak prominent but not overpowering in most cases. ‘And despite being rich they did not lack freshness, a factor I think helps define the Margaret River style – and certainly more my style of Chardonnay.’

Understated elegance was key for Knock. ‘The best wines for me were more subtle with the oak, expressing a proximity to the ocean in their aromas while highlighting the refreshing lemon-lime and exotic green fruit characters that are such a feature of the region.’

Jones agreed, stating: ‘The newer-wave of wines were more taut, textured and citrus-driven than the rich, tropical, old-school style. While the former boasted a coastal freshness, they still had plenty of concentration, focus and power.’

All three judges were disappointed in how few latest-release wines were entered for this panel tasting, but those that were present demonstrated the depth of quality available in Margaret River Chardonnay today.

The top-scoring Margaret River Chardonnays

The judges

Roger Jones is the retired former owner of The Harrow at Little Bedwyn restaurant in Wiltshire. He is now a wine writer, judge and consultant with a particular interest in the hospitality trade, as well as helping charities. He is a DWWA judge, with a focus on New World regions.

Justin Knock MW is director of wine for luxury wine merchant Oeno Group, overseeing its buying, marketing, trade and retail activities, and he is one of two DWWA joint Regional Chairs for Australia.

Julia Sewell is a wine consultant and educator offering services via juliasewellwine.com. A DWWA judge, she began her career in restaurants in Melbourne, Australia before moving to the UK and working at The Fat Duck in Bray, Hide Restaurant Mayfair and Davy’s Wine Merchants.

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Margaret River Chardonnay panel tasting scores

Scroll down to see tasting notes and scores for the top-scoring Margaret River Chardonnays

The top-scoring Margaret River Chardonnays

The judges

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