Médoc grand cru classé 2017: panel tasting results
The ‘forgotten vintage’ showed very well – our judges approved of a host of approachable wines that deserve their place on tables and in cellars.
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Georgina Hindle, Vincenzo Arnese and Andy Howard MW tasted 62 wines, with two Exceptional and 11 Outstanding.
Médoc grand cru classé 2017 panel tasting scores
62 wines tasted
Exceptional 2
Outstanding 11
Highly recommended 45
Recommended 4
Commended 0
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Fair 0
Poor 0
Faulty 0
Entry criteria: producers and UK agents were invited to submit their 2017 vintage red wines from Bordeaux cru classé estates, first growth to fifth growth, with both grand vin and second label wines welcome.
The 2017 vintage in Bordeaux was a challenge for winemakers, posing multiple problems throughout the year including frost, drought and untimely rainfall, but it had the added misfortune of falling in the middle of a long run of great vintages. At that time, 2017 was overshadowed by the two preceding years and the three subsequent ones.
Scroll down for tasting notes & scores for the top-scoring Médoc grand cru classé 2017 wines
Almost five years on, all the tasters found much to enjoy from the 2017s of the classified estates of the Left Bank, and were pleasantly surprised at the quality and drinkability on show.
‘Considering how complicated the vintage was, the results are much more positive than expected,’ said Vincenzo Arnese. Andy Howard MW agreed, emphasising the ‘typicity and classicism’ on show. ‘So many couldn’t be anything but Bordeaux wines,’ Howard said. ‘Perhaps one or two didn’t quite have the density, but many had very nice balance and structure, and also fruit purity.’
Bordeaux winemakers are becoming used to difficult growing seasons, but 2017 saw an early bud break that was subsequently met by uneven and often devastating frost impact. An exceptionally hot June followed with three days of heavy rain at the end of the month, then an extremely dry summer with cool nights and an early harvest that was complicated by September rains. Some estates produced very little or indeed no grand vin, while others were able to navigate the conditions with excellent results, though often resorting to unusual blends and therefore less estate signature on show.
See all 62 wines from the Médoc grand cru classé 2017 panel tasting
‘You hear about 2015, ’16, ’18 and ’19, but 2017 was practically forgotten,’ said Arnese, with Howard adding it was ‘in the shadows, but on the basis of what we tasted it’s a pretty good vintage to go for’. Despite expectations, only one or two wines had a slight green edge. ‘Oak for the most part was restrained and acidity is fairly classic, as you’d expect. The wines were definitely more elegant than I was expecting,’ Howard said.
Pauillac and St-Julien stood out clearly for all the judges, accounting for 13 of the top 20 wines that scored 94 points and above. ‘There was good average quality and consistency from Pauillac,’ said Arnese, while Howard was ‘impressed by St-Julien overall’, but found Margaux ‘more variable’ and slightly less successful given the differing extents of frost and localised hail storms suffered by estates in that appellation. Yet Arnese also praised St-Estèphe for a few exceptional wines, with many having ‘great potential for the long haul’.
Freshness and approachability were also key. ‘It’s a vintage that can be drunk earlier,’ said Arnese – it reminded him of 2012 in terms of ‘freshness and not too much concentration but with a good amount of ripeness’. For him, ‘2012 was a bit underrated, but the 2017s definitely have their own spot on the shelf’.
‘Most of the wines are drinkable now and the best have a very long life ahead, so there’s quite a broad drinking window,’ concluded Howard. ‘One or two had grainy tannins that will soften over time, but none of these are going to fall over in the next few years.’
The top scoring Médoc grand cru classé 2017:
The judges
Georgina Hindle is Decanter’s regional editor for Bordeaux and Burgundy, and editor of Decanter Premium online. She lives in Bordeaux.
Vincenzo Arnese is head sommelier at Alain Ducasse at The Dorchester, London. Originally from Naples, he specialised in sommellerie at hospitality school in Stresa, Italy, going on to work in prestigious hotels in Switzerland, Italy and Australia, as well as in the UK at The Waterside Inn in Bray and Dinner by Heston Blumenthal.
Andy Howard MW is a Decanter contributing editor and DWWA Regional Chair. A former retail wine buyer for more than 30 years, he now runs his own consultancy Vinetrades, focusing on wine education, judging, investment and sourcing, and has a house in southwest France.
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