New Chianti Classico releases in 2024: Top picks for the table and cellar

A selection of three parcels within this 23ha site. While Sangiovese is its soul, 50-year-old Malvasia Nera is intrinsic to Bellavista’s expression, lending nuance and tempering austerity. The two are blended after malolactic fermentation before refinement in French oak barriques. A tempting procession of coffee, incense, sweet herbs, moist earth and truffle emerges with each swirl. The palate is a thrilling and energetic tug-of-war with dark, lush fruit set against chiselled tannins. A gravelly texture adds to the drama and intense violet pierces the finish. Generous yet still tight.

The estate’s first foray into the Gran Selezione category hails from a new estate vineyard planted in 2015 with Sangiovese cuttings from Isole e Olena. The stony one-hectare, south-facing site sits on Alberese soil at 560 metres above sea level. Aromas are vivid and arresting, with fragrant Ginestra and sun-baked stone infusing well delineated cherry and strawberry. While decidedly commanding, it manages to balance density with agility and admirable finesse of tannins. Racy acidity melds with nuances of blood orange while wet soil lends a grounding element. It flows confidently to the finish, where mint mingles with those gorgeous florals. Bravo!

The estate’s third release, this Gran Selezione is among the top wines from Chianti Classico’s 2019 vintage. Just 4,000 bottles were produced from Querciabella’s site above 500 metres on the steep, stony slope of the Ruffoli hill. Coy to begin with, it hints at coffee, smoke and oily herbs such as grilled rosemary and sage. The palate is tight and sinewy, showing cranberry and red currants punctuated by inner-mouth perfumes of lilac and a crushed stone sensation. Decisive, linear tannins are carved with precision and accentuated by zesty acidity. I was lucky enough to try this on a few separate occasions and it just gets better with each sip.

A selection from the estate’s three vineyards – Istine and Casanova dell'Aia in Radda, and Cavarchione in Gaiole – this could be Istine's best Riserva yet. And quality-wise, it stands on equally footing with owner Angela Fronti’s cru bottlings. As it ages for several months longer in wood, Fronti experimented with some whole bunch fruit from Cavarchione to inject freshness and elegance. Sumptuous aromas exude raspberry and dark cherry punctuated by mint and pepper. It reconciles a friskiness of spirit with a velvetiness of mouthfeel, where suede-textured tannins build with a youthful chewiness. An appetising finish of bitter forest roots.

First produced in 1975, the estate’s Riserva has gone by the name Le Baròncole since 2000, and is made from the smaller berries and bunches picked after the annata selection. The first whiffs reveal an exuberance of prune plum laden with nutmeg, clove, tobacco, and toast along with a savoury, briny note. After this stunning glimpse, it retreats, before ripeness and richness return on the palate. Plum skin and fleshy cherry are wrapped in a chocolatey texture, before steely tannins attack. Firm and vertical, they give sculpted shape to the generous fruit, then zesty acidity sneaks up and salty minerals flood the finish. This will be all the more enjoyable with time.

This late-release 2019 Gran Selezione is a selection of the estate's lower altitude, oldest vines, planted in 1965. It spends 24 months in large casks before bottling, and impresses with its poise. Tobacco, black tea and ripe cherry scents evoke the beauty of Sangiovese, with bold and vibrant dark berries and balsamic ripples in the mouth. The fruit is dark in tone but bright in nature, complemented by zesty acidity, floral lift and wonderful sapidity. Only 2,000 bottles produced.

Trained enologist, Diego Finocchi counts five hectares spread over three different hills, all within the district of Radda. As with the 2020 vintage, the 2021 sees a higher percentage of Canaiolo Nero., which is co-fermented with Sangiovese to enhance aromas and lend immediate drinkability. Very territorial in its scents of cranberry, raspberry bush, spicy herbs and allspice with a trace of mocha, the dark, fleshy red cherry flavours provide depth of fruit and volume, yet this is midweight. Racy integrated acidity draws it effortlessly across the palate, making the smooth tannins seem like an afterthought. Slate-like minerals are artfully tucked in. Genuine, full of soul and so deliciously drinkable.

Hailing from a vineyard at 580 metres above sea level, Sonocosì refines for just a few months in concrete to achieve a fresh expression of Sangiovese, the intention being to hold a mirror up to the Lamole district. The nose burst with the freshest of raspberries backed up by rose, lilac and juniper. Crunchy pomegranate and blood orange are elevated by frisky acidity, and the tannins are light with a fine, powdery texture, cleansing the palate while leaving behind persistent nuances of alpine herbs and citrus zest. A thrilling expression of unwooded Sangiovese.

As production was down by 40% due to spring frost and drought conditions, winemaker Tim Manning made one single Chianti Classico, foregoing a Riserva bottling for the second year in a row. For this annata, he used a slightly higher percentage of whole clusters than usual, and a long maceration of 90 days, giving intense aromas of liquorice, oregano and dewy forest growth. The palate is decidedly spicy, bringing a peppery snap to those herb nuances. Bitter orange and strawberry pop through the core. Persistent flavours are protracted by focused acidity, while smooth, elegant tannins give seamless support. Seemingly lightweight, but stealthy power simmers.

Crafted from 15- to 20-year-old vines, the annata sees just a short passage in 20-hectolitre Slavonian oak casks. There's a dash of Colorino in the 2021, which is co-fermented with the Sangiovese. Elegantly restrained without lacking personality, intriguing aromas of sage, iron and blood orange peel implore a sip. The palate is awash with stony minerals and fills the mouth with a satisfying chew. The tannins are tightly fastened, lending real staying power. Serious juice offering excellent value.

While Francesco Ricasoli reports that quantities were slightly down and harvest was a bit earlier than usual in 2022, he is among those who reference the late August rain as a saviour of the vintage. And this year’s Brolio is simply textbook Chianti Classico, offering a fragrant juxtaposition of moist soil and spring blossoms on a well-padded backdrop of currants, cranberry and sour cherry. Tightly knit with an elegant frame of light, powdery tannins and firm, steely acidity. Really quite impressive for its almost 500,000-bottle production.

A blend of warm, southwest-facing plots with cooler northeast-facing parcels, Tommaso Marzi-Marrocchesi favours larger, juicier berries and gives a short maceration (maximum two weeks) with a gentle extraction, aiming for immediate drinkability. Ageing is in concrete. This wafts with a tangle of garden herbs – mint, tarragon and fennel – and a trace of vanillin. A concentrated core of ripe red cherry is well weighted without being hefty. Citrussy acidity keeps it buoyant, and chalky grape tannins lend texture. Very drinkable indeed.

As with the 2021, the 2022 demonstrates both the warm microclimate of San Casciano and the balmy summer temperatures through the ripeness of fruit and sweetness of tannins. It seems to pack in even more than the previous vintage while remaining balanced, juicy and satiating. Boisterous aromas of eucalyptus and leather are matched by dark fruit tones. The palate is replete with black currant and blackberry, and there is quite a chew to those tannins. As always, excellent value here.

This is surely Antinori’s highest volume Chianti Classico with almost one million bottles produced - that’s over 2.5% of the region’s annual production. Gracious and familiar, Pèppoli is like a cheerful postcard from the Chianti hills. It charms with glossy cherry, cinnamon and chopped basil. Accents of leather and smoky toast are properly demure. On the palate, fruit is at the fore: plump plum and blackberry compote meld effortlessly with light, smooth tannins that give just the slightest dusty tug. Finishes juicy.

San Felice’s 150 hectares of vineyards extend across the luminous rolling hills of Castelnuovo Berardenga. For the annata bottling, Sangiovese is joined by a host of other local varieties, primarily Abrusco and Pugnitello with dashes of Malvasia Nera, Ciliegiolo and Mazzese. It exudes macerated cherry and candied red plum with hints of nutmeg and leather. Some flinty hints appear on the midweight, moderately concentrated palate, completed by gentle, short-grained tannins and pleasantly puckering acidity. Everything is in place for satisfying affordable midweek drinking.