Northern Rhône whites
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Matt Walls, Cat Lomax and Tanguy Martin tasted 109 wines with 6 Outstanding and 50 Highly recommended.

Northern Rhône whites: Panel tasting scores

Exceptional 0

Outstanding 6

Highly recommended 50

Recommended 40

Commended 13

Fair 0

Poor 0


Entry criteria: producers and UK agents were invited to submit any latest-release white wines from the northern Rhône, made from grapes sourced exclusively from the northern Rhône growing area


When I tasted the 2020 northern Rhône whites from barrel for my en primeur report, I was captivated by their vibrancy. Then when I returned a year later, I was amazed that the 2021s appeared even fresher. So, I had high hopes for this tasting, and was keen to see how recent vintages compared now they’re in bottle.

The tasting confirmed them both to be excellent vintages for whites in the northern Rhône, but very different in style. We tasted the youngest first, and were all impressed by the vivid, zesty profile of the 2021 vintage (74 wines tasted) and its naturally crisp acidity. It is a lean and athletic year for whites, but they can sometimes lack depth and richness.


Scroll down to see tasting notes and scores from the Northern Rhône whites panel tasting


Cat Lomax certainly enjoyed the vintage. ‘2021 is definitely on the fresher end of the spectrum – quite nervy wines, very tightly wound, closed, almost hiding their potential. They need time,’ she said. ‘The successful 2021s have the depth of fruit and concentration that will unravel and open out, and will overcome the bracing element of the acidity that’s still there now because they’re so young.’

Some appellations were stronger than others in 2021. It is clearly a great vintage for Condrieu: a return to classicism after a series of hot vintages. Though a few were unripe or overoaked, it was otherwise impressively consistent. It was very good in St-Joseph and Hermitage for fans of a fresh and mineral white style. St-Péray was particularly impressive, too, and we all agreed that this appellation deserves more attention. The weak link in 2021 was Crozes-Hermitage. It was a wet, complicated vintage that made for disappointing reds, and the whites are only marginally better. Although some were enjoyably drinkable, many were dilute, and you should drink them without delay.

Of the two vintages, Tanguy Martin had a clear preference. ‘There are some amazing wines in 2021, but in terms of quality you have to pick more carefully; 2020 is a consistent vintage across the board. It’s riper and more generous, and will last longer.’

Of the 2020s (25 tasted), Lomax found wines ‘at the meeting point of fruit exuberance and freshness, with lovely creamy softness’ – the kind of wines that ‘make you want to sink into the glass’. This richer character was apparent across all appellations in 2020, but they aren’t as opulent as the 2019s (five wines tasted, along with one 2018 and three 2022), some of which appeared overly ripe and alcoholic.



There were fewer Collines Rhodaniennes, Côtes du Rhône and Vin de France examples to taste, and the wines we did see were decidedly mixed in style, quality and value. There were some very average wines, but also some real gems. If you enjoy creative, original wines, this is where to look, with some producers experimenting with skin contact and reduction to thrilling effect.

So which vintage is better for northern Rhône whites: 2020 or 2021? Time will tell. It’s an argument I look forward to having around the dinner table for years to come!


Northern Rhône whites panel tasting scores


The judges

Matt Walls is an awarded wine writer, author and consultant, a contributing editor to Decanter and the DWWA Regional Chair for the Rhône.

Cat Lomax is a wine and wine retail consultant who has held buying and senior trading roles across key premium wine retailers in the UK, including Laithwaites, Waitrose, Majestic and most recently Marks & Spencer.

Tanguy Martin is business development manager and ambassador for Roberson Wine. He completed his oenology diploma in Montpellier before heading to England in 2011, gaining the title of UK Sommelier of the Year in 2015 while working as head sommelier for the late Gerard Basset OBE MW MS. Having moved to London, Martin was wine buyer and wine director for a number of established restaurants.


Domaine François Merlin, Terroirs, Condrieu, Rhône, France, 2020

My wines
Locked score

It was during his 15 years as chef de culture at Domaine Rostaing that François Merlin started planting his own vineyards in Condrieu. His Terroirs...

2020

RhôneFrance

Domaine François MerlinCondrieu

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M Chapoutier, Chante-Alouette, Hermitage, Rhône, France, 2019

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Locked score

Open and pronounced, showing rich, ripe mango and honeysuckle. Very full bodied, with a lovely, smooth, silky and juicy mouthfeel. The acidity is tangy and...

2019

RhôneFrance

M ChapoutierHermitage

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Domaine Georges Vernay, Les Terrasses de l’Empire, Condrieu, Rhône, France, 2021

My wines
Locked score

It was Georges Vernay who spearheaded efforts to save the appellation when it nearly died out in the 1960s. It’s now led by his daughter...

2021

RhôneFrance

Domaine Georges VernayCondrieu

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Domaine Lionnet, Pierre Blanche, St-Joseph, Rhône, France, 2020

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Locked score

Based in the village of Cornas, this estate is best known for its robust red wines, which come highly recommended. Like the rest of its...

2020

RhôneFrance

Domaine LionnetSt-Joseph

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M Chapoutier, Haut Chamblard, St-Péray, Rhône, France, 2021

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Locked score

Michel Chapoutier is more readily associated with Hermitage, but he owns vineyards across the northern Rhône and beyond. He’s a relative latecomer to St-Péray, but...

2021

RhôneFrance

M ChapoutierSt-Péray

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Rémi Niero, Coeur de Roncharde, Condrieu, Rhône, France, 2021

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Locked score

This domaine is particularly adept at making whites – in fact, it’s one of the rare northern Rhône domaines making more white wine than red....

2021

RhôneFrance

Rémi NieroCondrieu

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Lionel Faury, La Berne, Condrieu, Rhône, France, 2020

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Locked score

Expressive, with meaty and floral notes on the nose. Ripe stone fruit, quince, plum and apricot with a touch of macerated richness. Long and delicate...

2020

RhôneFrance

Lionel FauryCondrieu

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Pierre Jean Villa, Jardin Suspendu, Condrieu, Rhône, France, 2021

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Locked score

Floral and waxy with spicy notes of quince, lychee and vanilla on the nose. Violets, almonds and white blossom notes on the palate. Balanced freshness...

2021

RhôneFrance

Pierre Jean VillaCondrieu

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Roland Grangier, Condrieu, Rhône, France, 2021

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Locked score

Ripe apricot and peachy stone fruits with hints of floral herbaceousness on the nose. The palate is layered with stone fruit and a toasty, creamy...

2021

RhôneFrance

Roland GrangierCondrieu

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Delas, Clos Boucher, Condrieu, Rhône, France, 2020

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Spicy with savoury aromas on the nose. Nutmeg, cinnamon and ripe peachy stone fruit on the palate. Juicy and creamy with a soft texture and...

2020

RhôneFrance

DelasCondrieu

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Domaine Belle, Blanc, Hermitage, Rhône, France, 2021

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Locked score

Generous, ripe and rich with yellow plum and melon fruit on the nose. Soft, with a full-bodied mouthfeel, fleshy fruit with weighty balance of acidity...

2021

RhôneFrance

Domaine BelleHermitage

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Domaine du Colombier, Hermitage, Rhône, France, 2018

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Locked score

Waxy, lanolin with lovely progression on the nose. Fresh and vibrant on the palate with savoury fruit, hints of tea leaf and dried herbs. Bright,...

2018

RhôneFrance

Domaine du ColombierHermitage

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Domaine du Monteillet, Blanc, St-Joseph, Rhône, France, 2021

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Locked score

Expressive floral aromas laced with generous peach and honeysuckle. Full-bodied with an intense richness of nectarine, apricot fruit and green tea. Mineral freshness with a...

2021

RhôneFrance

Domaine du MonteilletSt-Joseph

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Domaine Garon, Agricolis, St-Joseph, Rhône, France, 2021

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Creamy and fruit-forward with a generous expression of vanilla and spice. Stone fruit with vibrant acidity dominates the palate with a juicy, soft finish.

2021

RhôneFrance

Domaine GaronSt-Joseph

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Mouton Père et Fils, Côte Châtillon, Condrieu, Rhône, France, 2020

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Locked score

Floral with creamy, tropical fruit and minty, lemon verbena aromas. Concentrated, ripe stone fruit on a very generous palate. Fresh with juicy acidity on a...

2020

RhôneFrance

Mouton Père et FilsCondrieu

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Thomas Farge, Plan Rapproché, St-Péray, Rhône, France, 2021

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Tight and discreet. Peach and nectarine on the palate with black pepper and dried herbs on the palate. Soft with fleshy, weighty fruit and vibrant...

2021

RhôneFrance

Thomas FargeSt-Péray

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Clos de la Bonnette, Légende Bonnetta, Condrieu, Rhône, France, 2020

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Locked score

Expressive, notes of peach compote, verbena and apricot pastries. Ripe, rounded and creamy with concentrated oak and juicy acidity on the palate. Long and pleasing.

2020

RhôneFrance

Clos de la BonnetteCondrieu

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Delas, Domaine des Tourettes Blanc, Hermitage, Rhône, France, 2021

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Locked score

Toasty vanilla and creamy ripe fruit on the nose. The palate is rich and opulent with weighty stone fruit concentration. Juicy acidity lingers on the...

2021

RhôneFrance

DelasHermitage

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Domaine De Boisseyt, Les Corbonnes, Condrieu, Rhône, France, 2021

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Confectionary fruit with gentle lactic notes and delicate stone fruit blossom aromas. Lime leaf, apricot, and peach compote on the palate laced with cottony texture....

2021

RhôneFrance

Domaine De BoisseytCondrieu

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Ferraton Père & Fils, Le Mialan, St-Péray, Rhône, France, 2021

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Generous and expressive with stone fruit on the nose. The palate is ripe and savoury with hints of peach, green tea and savoury spice. Well-balanced...

2021

RhôneFrance

Ferraton Père & FilsSt-Péray

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Gabriel Meffre, Laurus, Condrieu, Rhône, France, 2020

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Roasted nuts, smoke and sweet, spicy vanilla on the nose. Fleshy stone fruit and racy acidity dominate the palate. Concentrated with a rich, opulent finish.

2020

RhôneFrance

Gabriel MeffreCondrieu

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Gabriel Meffre, Laurus, Hermitage, Rhône, France, 2020

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Powerful with notes of honey and stone fruit on the nose. Tropical and lush with layers of warm spice, vanilla and cream, balanced with gentle...

2020

RhôneFrance

Gabriel MeffreHermitage

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Jean-Luc Colombo, La Belle de Mai, St-Péray, Rhône, France, 2021

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Inviting and expressive with overt oak aromas. The palate is layered with warm spice, herbal-green tea notes and savoury, sophisticated oak. Juicy, with fresh acidity...

2021

RhôneFrance

Jean-Luc ColomboSt-Péray

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M Chapoutier, Invitare, Condrieu, Rhône, France, 2021

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Perfumed and harmonious with hints of violets on the nose. Slightly bitter almond and apricot kernel underpin a lovely, unctuous palate of rich stone fruit...

2021

RhôneFrance

M ChapoutierCondrieu

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Cave de Tain, Au Coeur des Siècles, Hermitage, Rhône, France, 2019

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Honey, preserved lemon, and lanolin on the nose. The palate is layered with hazelnuts, juicy tropical fruit and vanilla. The finish feels endless, with lifted...

2019

RhôneFrance

Cave de TainHermitage

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Pierre Jean Villa, Primavera, Collines Rhodaniennes, Rhône, France, 2021

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Clean, fresh and pure with a floral, peach blossom nose. Apricot dominates the well-structured palate. Saline and long on the finish.

2021

RhôneFrance

Pierre Jean VillaCollines Rhodaniennes

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Xavier Gérard, Côte Chatillon, Condrieu, Rhône, France, 2020

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Rich with a caramel, coconut nose. Vanilla and mango, with a silky, opulent mouth-feel, well-balanced weight and lifting acidity. The finish is clean and long.

2020

RhôneFrance

Xavier GérardCondrieu

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Pierre Gaillard, St-Joseph, Rhône, France, 2021

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Honeyed aromas with ripe, juicy peach fruit. Lush with rich texture, hints of botrytis, toasted citrus and nuttiness with a lifted freshness on the palate....

2021

RhôneFrance

Pierre GaillardSt-Joseph

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Domaine Garon, La Vieille Maison, Condrieu, Rhône, France, 2021

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Ripe and inviting, honeyed and tropical on the nose. Nutty with toasty oak and apricot crumble, full-bodied with a lush, silky mouthfeel underpinned with fresh...

2021

RhôneFrance

Domaine GaronCondrieu

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Domaine Laurent Fayolle, Les Diognières, Hermitage, Rhône, France, 2021

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Expressive peach compote and subtle tobacco notes. Warm spice and vanilla pastry, with abundant fleshy stone fruit and well-integrated oak on the palate. Saline and...

2021

RhôneFrance

Domaine Laurent FayolleHermitage

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Matt Walls
Decanter's Rhône coresspondent, and DWWA Regional Chair for the Rhône.

Matt Walls is an award-winning freelance wine writer and consultant, contributing regular articles to various print and online titles including Decanter, where he is a contributing editor. He has particular interest in the Rhône Valley; he is chair of the Rhône panel at the Decanter World Wine Awards and is the owner of travel and events company www.rhoneroots.com.