Northern Rhône whites: Panel tasting results
The potentially long-living 2021 wines dominated, but there’s plenty of delicious drinking in a range of styles, with our judges finding lots to admire.
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Matt Walls, Cat Lomax and Tanguy Martin tasted 109 wines with 6 Outstanding and 50 Highly recommended.
Northern Rhône whites: Panel tasting scores
109 wines tasted
Exceptional 0
Outstanding 6
Highly recommended 50
Recommended 40
Commended 13
Get our daily fine wine reviews, latest wine ratings, news and travel guides delivered straight to your inbox.
Fair 0
Poor 0
Entry criteria: producers and UK agents were invited to submit any latest-release white wines from the northern Rhône, made from grapes sourced exclusively from the northern Rhône growing area
When I tasted the 2020 northern Rhône whites from barrel for my en primeur report, I was captivated by their vibrancy. Then when I returned a year later, I was amazed that the 2021s appeared even fresher. So, I had high hopes for this tasting, and was keen to see how recent vintages compared now they’re in bottle.
The tasting confirmed them both to be excellent vintages for whites in the northern Rhône, but very different in style. We tasted the youngest first, and were all impressed by the vivid, zesty profile of the 2021 vintage (74 wines tasted) and its naturally crisp acidity. It is a lean and athletic year for whites, but they can sometimes lack depth and richness.
Scroll down to see tasting notes and scores from the Northern Rhône whites panel tasting
Cat Lomax certainly enjoyed the vintage. ‘2021 is definitely on the fresher end of the spectrum – quite nervy wines, very tightly wound, closed, almost hiding their potential. They need time,’ she said. ‘The successful 2021s have the depth of fruit and concentration that will unravel and open out, and will overcome the bracing element of the acidity that’s still there now because they’re so young.’
Some appellations were stronger than others in 2021. It is clearly a great vintage for Condrieu: a return to classicism after a series of hot vintages. Though a few were unripe or overoaked, it was otherwise impressively consistent. It was very good in St-Joseph and Hermitage for fans of a fresh and mineral white style. St-Péray was particularly impressive, too, and we all agreed that this appellation deserves more attention. The weak link in 2021 was Crozes-Hermitage. It was a wet, complicated vintage that made for disappointing reds, and the whites are only marginally better. Although some were enjoyably drinkable, many were dilute, and you should drink them without delay.
Of the two vintages, Tanguy Martin had a clear preference. ‘There are some amazing wines in 2021, but in terms of quality you have to pick more carefully; 2020 is a consistent vintage across the board. It’s riper and more generous, and will last longer.’
Of the 2020s (25 tasted), Lomax found wines ‘at the meeting point of fruit exuberance and freshness, with lovely creamy softness’ – the kind of wines that ‘make you want to sink into the glass’. This richer character was apparent across all appellations in 2020, but they aren’t as opulent as the 2019s (five wines tasted, along with one 2018 and three 2022), some of which appeared overly ripe and alcoholic.
See all 56 highly recommended and outstanding wines from the Northern Rhône whites panel tasting
There were fewer Collines Rhodaniennes, Côtes du Rhône and Vin de France examples to taste, and the wines we did see were decidedly mixed in style, quality and value. There were some very average wines, but also some real gems. If you enjoy creative, original wines, this is where to look, with some producers experimenting with skin contact and reduction to thrilling effect.
So which vintage is better for northern Rhône whites: 2020 or 2021? Time will tell. It’s an argument I look forward to having around the dinner table for years to come!
Northern Rhône whites panel tasting scores
The judges
Matt Walls is an awarded wine writer, author and consultant, a contributing editor to Decanter and the DWWA Regional Chair for the Rhône.
Cat Lomax is a wine and wine retail consultant who has held buying and senior trading roles across key premium wine retailers in the UK, including Laithwaites, Waitrose, Majestic and most recently Marks & Spencer.
Tanguy Martin is business development manager and ambassador for Roberson Wine. He completed his oenology diploma in Montpellier before heading to England in 2011, gaining the title of UK Sommelier of the Year in 2015 while working as head sommelier for the late Gerard Basset OBE MW MS. Having moved to London, Martin was wine buyer and wine director for a number of established restaurants.
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Matt Walls is an award-winning freelance wine writer and consultant, contributing regular articles to various print and online titles including Decanter, where he is a contributing editor. He has particular interest in the Rhône Valley; he is chair of the Rhône panel at the Decanter World Wine Awards and is the owner of travel and events company www.rhoneroots.com.