Top Virginia wines: The 2020 Governor’s Case
From familiar Bordeaux blends to Tannat, Vermentino and sweet Vidal Blanc
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For the first time in 15 years, a sweet wine took top honours at Virginia’s 38th annual Governor’s Cup Wine Competition.
In another first, 868 Estate Vineyards’ Vidal Blanc Passito 2017 is the only wine from 100% Loudoun County fruit to have won Virginia’s premier wine award.
In five of the past 10 years, the Governor’s Cup has gone to a red blend from Central Virginia, which includes the Monticello AVA.
This year 19 judges, headed by Master of Wine Jay Youman, tasted and rated 530 wines from more than 300 Virginia wineries. Over half of the 64 gold-medal winners (those scoring 90 points or more) were red blends, mainly of Bordeaux varietals.
The top-scoring dozen wines win a place in the Governor’s Case, which this year includes a Tannat blend, a Vermentino and another sweet wine from the hybrid Vidal Blanc variety.
Virginia resident and wine importer Bartholomew Broadbent was a judge. His father, the late Michael Broadbent, was one of the first to shine a spotlight on the state’s wines following a visit in 2002.
The Governor’s Case and overall Governor’s Cup winner were announced at a gala in late February, just ahead of the lockdown imposed by the Covid-19 pandemic.
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Yes, there were black ties and speeches, but the after-party took place at a bowling alley. Nothing strikes down fustiness quite like winemakers and sommeliers in funny shoes.
It’s a fitting image for Virginia’s new role. No longer a trying-to-impress upstart and not yet a too-cool-for-school untouchable, the state finds itself on self-assured middle ground.
While red blends will always make sense in this state, with its mercurial climates and variable vintages, quality is expanding beyond the familiar styles and varietals of yore – as well as expanding beyond the reliable terroirs of Central Virginia.
Virginia’s 2020 Governor’s Case
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Barboursville Vineyards, Reserve Vermentino, Monticello AVA, Virginia, USA, 2018

One of very few Vermentinos in Virginia. Made by Piedmont-born winemaker Luca Paschina, it showcases his success with Italian varieties and the state’s predominance with...
2018
VirginiaUSA
Barboursville VineyardsMonticello AVA
Pollak Vineyards, Reserve Cabernet Franc, Virginia, USA, 2017

Pollak’s best block of Cabernet Franc is planted with a clone that produces thicker skins, which means longer hang time – they even sent budwood...
2017
VirginiaUSA
Pollak Vineyards
Barboursville Vineyards, Octagon, Monticello AVA, Virginia, USA, 2014

93
Proof Virginia wines can age, especially one of the state's earliest star wines, Octagon. With a texture that's pure velvet, this Bordeaux blend's primary blackberry fruits still whisper on the palate, but leather, black olive, and spiced cocoa deliver the long, balanced finish.
2014
VirginiaUSA
Barboursville VineyardsMonticello AVA
Delaplane Cellars, Williams Gap, Virginia, USA, 2017

Named for a famed wind gap in the Blue Ridge Mountains, the voluptuous fruit for this wine comes from an atypically low, flat site. Delaplane...
2017
VirginiaUSA
Delaplane Cellars
Michael Shaps, Meritage, Monticello AVA, Virginia, USA, 2016

Real character and sense of place from Michael Shaps, a winemaker with one foot in the Blue Ridge Mountains, another in Burgundy (Maison Shaps) and...
2016
VirginiaUSA
Michael ShapsMonticello AVA
Pollak Vineyards, Smuggler, Monticello AVA, Virginia, USA, 2017

The Smuggler Vineyard is named after a famed silver mine in Aspen, Colorado, belonging to David Pollak's great grandfather. This Merlot-dominant Bordeaux blend is a...
2017
VirginiaUSA
Pollak VineyardsMonticello AVA
Afton Mountain Vineyards, Tradition, Virginia, USA, 2017

One of Virginia's first farm wineries is now restoring vineyards planted in the early 1980s. The Merlot, Petit Verdot and Cabernet Sauvignon grapes were grown...
2017
VirginiaUSA
Afton Mountain Vineyards
Shenandoah Vineyards, Reserve Red, Virginia, USA, 2017

Michael Shaps bought this historic winery, founded 1976, in 2018. Unlike the iconic clay of Central Virginia and the rocky slopes of Northern Virginia, Shenandoah...
2017
VirginiaUSA
Shenandoah Vineyards
Lake Anna Winery, Tannat, Virginia, USA, 2017

This second-generation family winery sits on 30ha at Virginia's second-largest lake. 'Michael Shaps called during harvest,' said winemaker Graham Bell. '$6,000 later, I got two...
2017
VirginiaUSA
Lake Anna Winery
Pippin Hill Farm & Vineyards, Petit Verdot, Monticello AVA, Virginia, USA, 2017

This 100% Petit Verdot comes from several sites in Monticello, with youthful vigour married to older-vine complexity. Twice-a-day punch-downs and pump-overs have tamed the variety's...
2017
VirginiaUSA
Pippin Hill Farm & VineyardsMonticello AVA
Rockbridge Vineyard, Vd'Or, Shenandoah Valley AVA, Virginia, USA, 2017

One of Virginia's old guard, Rockbridge has twice won the Governor's Cup – the first time in 1995 for its 1994 Vd’Or. Pronounced vuh-DOOR, this...
2017
VirginiaUSA
Rockbridge VineyardShenandoah Valley AVA
868 Estate Vineyards, Vidal Blanc Passito, Loudoun County, Virginia, USA, 2017

91
The 2020 Governor's Cup winner: an ancient wine style from one of the state’s newer players. Following the passito method used for centuries in Italy to make vin santo, winemaker Carl DiManno picked Vidal grapes at early ripeness and laid out bunches on racks for a month of fan-driven air-drying before pressing drops of concentrated juice from the raisined fruit. Tropical sweetness on the nose leads to surprisingly restrained flavours of apricot, raisins, honey, green tea and lemon zest.
2017
VirginiaUSA
868 Estate VineyardsLoudoun County

Jason Tesauro is an experienced wine writer, photojournalist and sommelier, based in Verona, Italy. He has written features on Virginian wines for Decanter Magazine, and has also contributed to The Washington Post, Travel+Leisure, The New York Times and Bloomberg. He is currently a contributing writer for Esquire magazine, while also freelancing for other titles.