Comparing Roda I and Cirsion Riojas plus new releases tasted

Founded in 1987 by Mario Rotllant and Carmen Daurella, Bodegas Roda was a breath of fresh air in the traditional Rioja wine scene. Previously working as wine merchants, the couple had no experience of winemaking in the region and took a radical new approach: choosing to make Riojas defined by style.

Scroll down for new-release Roda I 2016 and Roda Cirsion 2018 tasting notes and scores

Their decision was based on meticulous research of vineyard sites in Rioja Alta, with a focus on old bush vines of Tempranillo, Garnacha and Graciano.

Subject to varied Atlantic, Continental and Mediterranean climatic influences in every vintage, these sites allowed the Roda team to create two distinct styles of Rioja.

Working from their new winery in Haro’s established Station District, Rotllant and Daurella produced Roda I and Roda II in 1992. In the simplest terms, the former has a mainly black-fruit profile; while the latter – now just known as ‘Roda’ – has a red-fruit character.

At the time these modern styles, released at higher-than-average prices, caused a sensation in Rioja; today they are collectable classics. Bodegas Roda has become known for pushing boundaries and for its meticulous research into the Tempranillo grape, identifying 552 individual clones. Every year a percentage of the company profits are ploughed back into research and the Familia Roda 107 collection has become an international resource for Tempranillo growers.

Creation of Roda Cirsion

Viticulturist Agustín Santolaya worked on the initial selection of Roda vineyards, becoming general manager in 1998. Now Roda’s managing director and winemaker, he’s responsible for the bodega’s 28 blocks of old Tempranillo, Garnacha and Graciano vines, and was a driving force behind the creation of the winery’s third – and most expensive – release, Cirsion in 1998.

‘The concept was born back in 1995/96 when Isidro Palacios, the vineyard manager, and myself were tasting berries in an old Villalba vineyard in the foothills of the Obarenes mountains,’ he says.

‘The Cirsion notion is a rarity, and it represented a change in the way we understand the vineyard. Only a few vines from our oldest vineyards are included in Cirsion: those showing an extraordinary ripening with silky tannins in the very vine. When tasting the berries from those vines, the complexity, volume and finesse are well above that of the neighbouring vines,’ explains Santolaya.

He noticed that those particular vines displayed the same silkiness of tannins year on year. ‘We started thinking that this was very much linked to the polymerisation of the tannins at the very vine, bringing the smoothness,’ he adds.

Previously used to produce Roda I, the fruit from these vines was dedicated to the first Cirsion vinification in 1997. ‘We made 300 bottles, which were astonishing and different to the Roda I concept,’ says Santolaya.

‘We tasted them with opinion leaders, who were perplexed by the roundness, expressivity and complexity of the wine at such an early stage. From that year on we decided to increase our production and have made Cirsion every vintage, except for 2002, 2008, 2013 and 2014.’

Winemaking and ageing

Due to the unique character of the Cirsion vines, their grapes undergo a different winemaking process to Roda I. ‘Since the tannins are silkier at the vineyard, there is no need to extend the barrique ageing in order to fine them,’ explains Santolaya. ‘A shorter stay in barrique, below 10 months, allows a better expression of the vineyard, the landscape, with more nuances uncovered by the oak.’

In comparison Roda I will spend 14-16 months in barrel – roughly half new and half second-use ­French oak – and a further 20 months in bottle. This means that Cirsion is always released younger than Roda I.

‘The wine shows volume, yet remains airy, with length and delicacy at the same time. It has the ability to impress when young, because of the complexity, expressivity and smoothness, but it also ages gracefully,’ says Santolaya.

What does he think are the best vintages of Cirsion? ‘1999 is very surprising, being a cold vintage; perfection was probably closer in 2001, and 2004, 2005, 2010 and 2011 were extraordinary. In terms of freshness and balance I would say 2016.’

Current releases

The latest release of Cirsion is the 2018 vintage, launched with the 2016 vintage of Roda I. The former is a blend of 90% Tempranillo and 10% Graciano, fermented and aged in French oak. The 2018 vintage saw one of the highest rainfalls in recent years and was hit by frost in May and hail in July.

Roda I 2016 is 96% Tempranillo and 4% Graciano, from old bush vines with a marked black-fruit character. Harvest began on 21st September in a year that has been classified as ‘very good’ by the Consejo Regulador DOCa Rioja. It was fermented in French oak vats and aged in barriques (50% new and 50% second-use) for 16 months.

Read on for Decanter’s review and scores of these latest vintages – as well as older releases.

See tasting notes and scores for new and older vintages of Roda I and Cirsion

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