South American Cabernet Franc: Expert's choice

An essential ingredient in many great wines, Cabernet Franc never quite seems to have received its due in the Loire Valley, Bordeaux or Tuscany – an injustice that winemakers in Argentina, Chile and Uruguay are looking to put right. Even though just 3,000ha are under vine, South America has been doing a lot more to improve its reputation than many Old World producers. In the warm, dry conditions found in South American vineyards, Cabernet Franc ripens better, with fewer pyrazines (which give a leafy, green pepper character) and gentler tannins.

In Argentina, there is already talk about the rise of ‘Franc’ even though there are only 1,146ha under vine (compared with 40,000ha of Malbec). It partners well with Malbec, bringing enhanced freshness and a lighter structure, but it quickly began to stand out on its own.

‘Cab Franc expresses itself differently at different altitudes,’ says Alejandro Vigil, oenologist at Catena Zapata and Bodega Aleanna, and the producer of the most highly rated Cabernet Franc in South America. ‘It reflects distinct Mendozan terroirs as clearly as Malbec.’

Although old vines exist in Mendoza, in Maipú and in Luján de Cuyo, the current boom began 15 years ago with clones (#214 and #327) introduced in the late 20th century. With 261ha at 700m-1,000m, Luján de Cuyo ensures rich dark fruits, full body and juicy acidity. In the cooler Uco Valley, 462ha are planted at 1,000m-1,400m, the wines taut with red fruits and a balsamic profile. To the north it is grown above 1,700m, resulting in powerful, fresh wines with moderate pyrazines. In Patagonia, the profile is more like that found in the Old World.

In Chile, 1,646ha of Cabernet Franc are distributed mainly across Maipo, Maule and Colchagua, although it is also grown by the coast. Only about 30 Chilean Cabernet Franc varietal wines currently exist and the leafy profile varies according to the climate, but the grape is often found in good blends. ‘We’ve started to pay it attention, but it’s not an easy grape to get right in Chile,’ says Rafael Urrejola, who makes single-varietal Cabernet Franc in Maipo for Undurraga’s Terroir Hunter TH range. Winemakers tend to find the leafy, pyrazine profile a little daunting for single varietal bottlings.

Finally, with its 240ha under vine, Uruguay is producing some very good Cabernet Francs from vineyards close to the Río de la Plata and in the east. Although no one distinctive style has yet emerged, winemakers are optimistic about its future near the ocean. Bodega Garzón and Viña Progreso are the wineries most worth keeping an eye on right now.

Alejandro Iglesias’ top South American Cabernet Franc recommendations

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Alejandro Iglesias was born in Buenos Aires, Argentina, to a family where gastronomy and wine always occupied leading roles. In 2004, he changed his career as a Financial Adviser to begin his studies at the Argentine School of Sommeliers. Since then, he has worked as a wine writer for several Argentine and international media publications, as well as being a Decanter contributor. As a wine educator, he teaches classes in Argentina, Uruguay, Panama and Costa Rica. Since 2010 he has been the Executive Sommelier at Bonvivir, the largest wine club in Argentina and in 2013 he launched Vinomanos.com, the first Argentine wine app. As a member of the Argentine Sommeliers Association (AAS), he participated in the organising committee of the Best Sommelier Competition in Mendoza, Argentina. Alejandro Iglesias was a judge at the 2019 Decanter World Wine Awards (DWWA).

South American Cabernet Franc: Expert’s choice

Alejandro Iglesias’ top South American Cabernet Franc recommendations

Bodega Aleanna, Gran Enemigo Single Vineyard Agrelo Cabernet Franc, Luján de Cuyo, Agrelo, Mendoza, Argentina, 2016

Rutini, Single Vineyard Gualtallary Cabernet Franc, Uco Valley, Gualtallary, Mendoza, Argentina, 2017

Andeluna, Pasionado Cabernet Franc, Uco Valley, Gualtallary, Mendoza, Argentina, 2017

Bodega Garzon, Petit Clos Cabernet Franc Block #560, Garzón, Maldonado, Uruguay, 2017

Durigutti, Proyecto Las Compuertas Cabernet Franc, Las Compuertas, Mendoza, Argentina, 2019

Susana Balbo, BenMarco Cabernet Franc, Uco Valley, Paraje Altamira, Mendoza, Argentina, 2018

Pulenta Estate, XI Gran Cabernet Franc, Luján de Cuyo, Agrelo, Mendoza, Argentina, 2017

Superuco, Sorella, Uco Valley, Gualtallary, Mendoza, Argentina, 2016

Bodegas Salentein, Numina Cabernet Franc, Uco Valley, Los Árboles, Mendoza, Argentina, 2017

El Esteco, Fincas Notables Cabernet Franc Cuartel #5, Cafayate Valley, Salta, Argentina, 2016

Garage Wine Co, Las Higueras Vineyard Cabernet Franc Lot #92, Maule Valley, Chile, 2017

Zuccardi, Polígonos del Valle de Uco Cabernet Franc San Pablo, Uco Valley, Mendoza, Argentina, 2019

Viña Cobos, Bramare Chañares Estate Cabernet Franc, Uco Valley, Tunuyán, Mendoza, Argentina, 2017

Gillmore, Hacedor de Mundos Old Vines Cabernet Franc, Maule Valley, Chile, 2014

Maquis, Franco, Colchagua Valley, Chile, 2013

Undurraga, TH Cabernet Franc Maipo, Maipo Valley, Chile, 2016

Viña Progreso, Overground Cabernet Franc, Progreso, Canelones, Uruguay, 2018

Bodega Aleanna, El Enemigo Cabernet Franc, Uco Valley, Gualtallary, Mendoza, Argentina, 2017

Luigi Bosca, Gala 4 Cabernet Franc, Las Compuertas, Mendoza, Argentina, 2017

Bodega Norton, Altura Cabernet Franc, Uco Valley, Paraje Altamira, Mendoza, Argentina, 2018

Zorzal, Eggo Franco Cabernet Franc, Uco Valley, Gualtallary, Mendoza, Argentina, 2018

Laura Hartwig, Selección del Viticultor Cabernet Franc, Colchagua Valley, Chile, 2017

Catena Zapata, DV Catena Tinto Histórico Cabernet Franc, Uco Valley, San Carlos, Mendoza, Argentina, 2018

Tabalí, Vetas Blancas, Limarí Valley, Chile, 2018

Valdivieso, Single Vineyard Cabernet Franc, Sagrada Familia, Curicó Valley, Chile, 2018

Luis Felipe Edwards, 360º Series Cabernet Franc, Colchagua Valley, Chile, 2018

Santa Rita, Floresta Cabernet Franc, Colchagua Valley, Chile, 2018

Trapiche, Estación 1883 Cabernet Franc, Mendoza, Argentina, 2018