Southeastern European reds: Panel tasting results
From a breadth of origins, touching the Mediterranean, Adriatic and Black seas, and a plethora of less-familiar grapes and local styles, this tasting of southeastern European reds offered much to discover.
Caroline Gilby MW, Ana Jackson MW and Igor Luković tasted 128 wines, with 12 Outstanding and 30 Highly recommended
Southeastern European reds: Panel tasting scores
128 wines tasted
Exceptional 0
Outstanding 12
Highly recommended 30
Recommended 63
Commended 23
Fair 0
Entry criteria: producers and UK agents were invited to submit their current-release, still, dry red wines made from 100% indigenous grapes and/or traditional regional grapes, including blends, from specified countries in the southeast of Europe
Scroll down to see the top-scoring wines from our southeastern European reds panel tasting
A sea change in style
With 12 Outstanding wines across five countries, involving seven local grapes, this was a fascinating, diverse and high-scoring tasting.
It also provided a strong signal that the whole region of 10 nations – under the broad umbrella of ‘southeastern Europe’ – is coming of age and offers lots of exciting options for adventurous wine drinkers.
The results gave a clear message that indigenous varieties, once written off as plodding workhorses, can deliver both global quality and wines with real personality and distinct differences that reflect each country.
It should give producers a boost, showing they can have real confidence in native varieties and don’t have to rely on adding Merlot or Cabernet.
Ana Jackson MW was impressed by the high quality across the board.
‘It was great to see the versatility of grapes and to see real freshness in some of the Outstanding wines. And where there is oak, it’s good oak, unlike a few years ago,’ she said.
‘Teran was a highlight among the top-scoring wines, and the Kabola amphora wine (see recommendations) deserves a special mention. The Probus grape was a real discovery, too.’
Igor Luković agreed. ‘I was impressed with the consistency of the wines – fewer mistakes and the traditional, rustic, over-oaked styles are disappearing in favour of far more modern and precise winemaking,’ he said.
‘I expected Teran to shine, and it delivered. But I also admired Prokupac, and I think that Frankovka (or Blaufränkisch) has a great future in southeastern Europe and should be planted more widely.’
The judges agreed that the next challenge is how to promote these unfamiliar wines, though the results showed that this region is a treasure trove of exciting and delicious discoveries.
What to eat with southeastern European reds, by Fiona Beckett
The combination of what are likely be unfamiliar grape varieties with the unfamiliar cuisines of their home countries might sound daunting but could prompt some exciting experiments.
Certainly there’s no lack of quality among these wines, particularly Croatia’s Teran, which is traditionally paired with wild boar, venison and other game, rich fatty meats and Paški sir, a salty sheep’s cheese from the island of Pag.
So it should equally work with more familiar, slow-cooked Greek, Turkish and Lebanese meat dishes and salty Greek cheeses such as feta.
Vranac should work with similar dishes, especially braises and stews, while Prokupac lends itself to roasts and grills, being a particularly good pairing, according to Serbian sommelier Vuk Vuletić, for the local ćevapi (skinless minced-meat sausages), served with an ajvar (red pepper) sauce.
Emboldened by that touch of spice, I would be inclined to try Georgian and other Central Asian dishes, and even Indian roasted or grilled meats. These robust reds would pair well with foods cooked over coals.
See all notes and scores from the southeastern European reds tasting
The judges
Caroline Gilby MW is an awarded author, speaker and consultant with a passion for the wines of the Balkans, Central and Eastern Europe and the Black Sea. She is DWWA joint Regional Chair across several categories
Ana Jackson MW is head of wine business development for Amathus Drinks and was formerly head buyer at Oddbins for more than 12 years. She is keen to promote less-familiar wine categories and is a DWWA judge for the Southern & Eastern Mediterranean category
Igor Luković is editor in chief at Vino & Fino magazine in Serbia. A wine writer, consultant, judge and events manager, he is a DWWA judge and president of The Balkans International Wine Competition jury
Southeastern European reds panel tasting results:
Wines were tasted blind
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