Top 20 Puglian Primitivo

A region of remarkable contrasts, Puglia stretches between two seas, the Adriatic and the Ionian, giving it almost 800km of coastline. Forming the heel of Italy’s boot, in the deep south, it has a typically Mediterranean climate, and a long winemaking tradition thought to date back to the Phoenicians.

Scroll down to see tasting notes and scores for 20 top Puglian Primitivo reds

Its red earth is rocky in places, and its windswept, sun-drenched landscapes are a patchwork of vineyards and drystone walls. Groundwater flows through karst aquifers in its stratified landform.

Puglia’s predominant grape is Primitivo, which is grown practically all over the south of the region. The variety has found its ideal habitat in two areas in particular: the red-soiled lowlands in the province of Taranto, which produces mostly Primitivo di Manduria DOC (and, to a far lesser extent, sweetish Primitivo di Manduria Dolce Naturale DOCG); and the Murgia plateau near Bari, with Primitivo Gioia del Colle DOC.

Primitivo’s fascinating history is thought to have originated in the Balkans, on the other side of the Adriatic, before Slavic refugees introduced it to the Gioia del Colle area. There, in the 17th century, an abbot with agronomy expertise carried out a clonal selection. Primitivo ripens early (the name derives from the Latin primativus, for ‘precocious’), meaning it can be harvested before the autumn rainfall. Meanwhile, its late bud break makes it impervious to spring frosts. These crucial characteristics helped it spread, probably from Gioia del Colle to Manduria first, before reaching the broader Taranto area and Salento.

Big on drinkability

The Gioia del Colle Primitivo area features altitudes of 250m-400m, constant winds and temperature variations of up to 11°C during the ripening period. The vines’ roots plunge into the limestone just beneath the thin layer of red soil, with naturally low yields per hectare.

Here, Primitivo expresses a particular style: elegant, fresh, savoury and cellarworthy. While this appellation is small, quality is improving fast. Fortunately, local growers have avoided relying too heavily on oak ageing or overripening. Instead, the current trend seeks to strike a balance between ripeness and freshness, with an accent on drinkability.

Manduria is the Primitivo city par excellence. Primitivo vines are traditionally bush-trained (gobelet), and century-old plants can be found on these lowlands, reaching barely 150m. Clay-limestone soil, proximity to the coast, and a windswept Mediterranean climate: the area’s characteristics produce wines that are generally fruit-forward and full-bodied, delightfully velvety and mellow, with robust alcohol content making them potent yet balanced. These wines can be enjoyed young, or laid down for years. Pope Benedict XIII famously produced Primitivo di Manduria.

Today, Italian and international celebrities (such as American actor Ronn Moss) have bought their own vineyards.

Covering some 4,500ha, this DOC is leading a constantly growing market, with 70% of its output exported. Production, and sales, increased even during the Covid-19 pandemic.

Part of Primitivo di Manduria’s appeal is undoubtedly its value for money, with prices in major retailers ranging from £7.99 to £39 in exceptional cases.

Puglian Primitivo really delivers in the glass, exuding the special atmosphere of this welcoming Italian region, abundant in natural beauty.

Power and poise: Piubello’s 20 top Primitivo reds to try

You may also like

Expert’s Choice: Puglia wines

Puglia travel guide for wine lovers