New Zealand Pinot Noir for your cellar
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The land of the long white cloud is an essential port of call for all Pinot lovers on their quest for the perfect glassful. Here, Anne Krebiehl MW selects 20 of her current favourites that combine the ethereal appeal of the great Burgundy grape with New Zealand's island individuality...
New Zealand gets under your skin. There is something about its remoteness, about its big skies, vivid with moving cloud by day and lit by countless southern stars at night.
Its landscapes are varied: from pastoral, grassy plains, craggy coastlines and magical beaches via temperate rainforests alive with the rattle of a thousand crickets to stark, sunbaked, snow-covered rocks, ravines and icy lakes. Wilderness runs right through it, thrilling all of the senses, making you feel intensely alive.
That Pinot Noir should feel so much at home on these two islands on the other side of the globe is our good fortune. Those of us who love this grape variety in all its infinite nuance can enjoy its expressions from a climate that unites cool briskness with bright, intense sunshine.
This sunny but cool brilliance makes it into those screwcapped bottles and explains their intensity of cranberry and cherry, redcurrant and mulberry.
We are spoilt for choice with New Zealand Pinot Noir at various price levels. Spend little more than £10 and you are guaranteed vibrant fruit and ample freshness, often on a lighter body that makes these Pinots so food-friendly. The pleasure-for-money ratio of these well-made wines is immense.
Here’s a tip: while they are made for immediate drinking, all apart from the very simplest will benefit from a little bottle age without losing any of their fruity intensity. Stocking up on some special offer bottles and storing them somewhere cool and dark for a year or two will create a little extra Pinot-ness.
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Move up the price scale and you start to find wines with slightly more body and background, until you reach single vineyard wines from boutique producers that are undoubtedly world class. If you are playing, and perhaps collecting, at this level the prices are still civilised.
Screwcaps keep these wines in pristine condition for cellaring and fine, aged Kiwi Pinot Noir is a treat. Just like wine styles everywhere, the pendulum has swung towards elegance.
Regions
I look to Canterbury, Martinborough and Nelson for alluring savouriness, and to Central Otago for corralled power and beauty (even though there are still some hot and clumsy wines around).
Yet it is in Marlborough that the Pinot landscape has really shifted: it used to be about simple, confected fruit, but is now the source of very well made, high-volume wines, and the sights are set for increasing sophistication.
Purity
Small-parcel wines, sadly not over here yet, show what is possible. But no matter where you go, the focus at every level is on expressing purity, site and fruit. The Kiwis have made giant steps in a very short time, and now they are fine-tuning.
The very best of their wines capture the boundless, visceral beauty of these windswept islands right here in my glass – and under my skin.
Anne’s 20 top New Zealand Pinot Noir wines for your cellar:
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Ata Rangi, McCrone Vineyard Pinot Noir, Martinborough, Wairarapa, New Zealand, 2015

A suave and sexy Pinot Noir. Expect the sweet sandalwood-like oak flavours of youth layered over rich fruit in this round, generous Pinot. Beyond the fruit, there's a mass of open-pored, mouthcoating tannins which speak of the clay component of this site, leaving a structured, chocolatey finish.
2015
WairarapaNew Zealand
Ata RangiMartinborough
Felton Road, Block 5 Pinot Noir, Bannockburn, Central Otago, New Zealand, 2016

An enduring favourite. After a whiff of gentle smoke, the palate comes on assured but light feet. Cherry and mulberry follow, but with air and time raspberry and a touch of nettle follow. Splendid acidity and a super-fine weave of tannins highlight its beauty and elegance. Biodynamic.
2016
Central OtagoNew Zealand
Felton RoadBannockburn
Kusuda, Pinot Noir, Martinborough, Wairarapa, New Zealand, 2014

A light wine for this region but increasingly seductive, with blackberry and smoked almond aromas. Generous fruit, a wonderful depth of character enhanced by evident cherry and herbal notes, with a long clean, refreshing finish
2014
WairarapaNew Zealand
KusudaMartinborough
Neudorf, Moutere Pinot Noir, Moutere Hills, Nelson, New Zealand, 2015

A hint of rose petal at first, then a concentrated and aromatic palate of Maraschino cherry edged with rose. Fine tannins crunch like Atlas silk. This is unforced, elegant and full of potential.
2015
NelsonNew Zealand
NeudorfMoutere Hills
Akitu, A1 Pinot Noir, Wanaka, Central Otago, New Zealand, 2016

Subtle cherry on the nose. The palate is a lovely expression of unforced balance, an interplay between aromatic, ripe fruit and bracing freshness with a lovely savoury glint. Nothing is overdone here.
2016
Central OtagoNew Zealand
AkituWanaka
Bell Hill, Pinot Noir, Canterbury, New Zealand, 2014

Peppery red cherry and tart berry fruit is ripe but pervaded by spice: aromatic and sinuous, generous and warming, but channelled by fresh acidity. It is the aromatic quality of the fruit that gets under the skin. The finish has a touch of smoke.
2014
CanterburyNew Zealand
Bell Hill
Escarpment, Kiwa Pinot Noir, Martinborough, Wairarapa, New Zealand, 2016

A synthesis of white pepper and red cherry with a lovely, salty soy edge. On the palate this is full, fluid and a little edgy – but elegant. It retains a spiciness throughout and does not carry an ounce of fat. The pepper and freshness just linger.
2016
WairarapaNew Zealand
EscarpmentMartinborough
Muddy Water, Slowhand Pinot Noir, Waipara Valley, Canterbury, New Zealand, 2013

Subtle cherry aroma. Lovely, rounded, resonant and Maraschino cherry-tinged berry fruit on the palate. Made with such a light touch, allowing the fruit to speak clearly and with purity. So beautiful, resonant and gorgeous.
2013
CanterburyNew Zealand
Muddy WaterWaipara Valley
Pegasus Bay, Prima Donna Pinot Noir, Waipara Valley, Canterbury, New Zealand, 2013

Some reductive aromas initially but plenty of black fruit, chocolate and herbs on the palate. Big boned wine with substantial tannins, dark berry fruits unfold softly across the palate, this is unforced, a wine with charisma and richness.
2013
CanterburyNew Zealand
Pegasus BayWaipara Valley
Quartz Reef, Bendigo Single Vineyard Pinot Noir, Central Otago, New Zealand, 2016

From Rudi Bauer’s capable hands, this reveals the merest whiff of smoke. The palate is corsetted sumptuousness, while the frame is firm, showing lots of backbone. A lovely synthesis of fruit, structure and texture that channels Bendigo power into finesse. The lasting finish resonates with fruit. Biodynamic.
2016
Central OtagoNew Zealand
Quartz Reef
Valli, Gibbston Vineyard Pinot Noir, Central Otago, New Zealand, 2016

Gentle peony notes on the nose signal elegance and charm. The texture is of velvet: dense and taut with a gentle brush. The fruit is ripe and suggests mulberry and red cherry. Such an elegant expression of Gibbston, this is lovely and lasting, with real potential.
2016
Central OtagoNew Zealand
Valli
Seresin Estate, Leah Pinot Noir, Marlborough, New Zealand, 2014

Slightly reduced on the nose but well-structured with marked acidity and grip on the finish. Pleasant florality with sawdust and raspberry compote notes.
2014
MarlboroughNew Zealand
Seresin Estate
Saint Clair Family Estate, Omaka Reserve Pinot Noir, Southern Valleys, Marlborough, New Zealand, 2016

Floral, fragrant and tender at first, this reveals real depth of fruit with a little air. Bright and resonant.
2016
MarlboroughNew Zealand
Saint Clair Family EstateSouthern Valleys
Two Paddocks, Pinot Noir, Central Otago, New Zealand, 2016

A touch of promising reduction appears first but then white pepper and gentle spice take over. Red, pure berry fruit is still tightly held on the concentrated palate where firm, fine tannins crunch pleasantly.
2016
Central OtagoNew Zealand
Two Paddocks
Yealands Estate, Winemaker's Reserve Pinot Noir, Awatere Valley, Marlborough, New Zealand, 2016

Savoury, peppery notes of cranberry pervade nose and palate, fragrant and laden with cherry. Combines Awatere’s coolness and Marlborough’s brilliant sunshine.
2016
MarlboroughNew Zealand
Yealands EstateAwatere Valley
Brancott Estate, Letter Series T Pinot Noir, Marlborough, New Zealand, 2016

The initial flinty reduction on the nose blows off to reveal juicy, ripe cherry fruit. The fresh and bright palate adds cranberry and a touch of white pepper and ivy leaf to the experience. The finish is wonderfully tart and refreshing.
2016
MarlboroughNew Zealand
Brancott Estate
Martinborough Vineyard, Te Tera Pinot Noir, Martinborough, Wairarapa, New Zealand, 2016

Tender, restrained cranberry and cherry aromas have a peppery verve. The palate unites cherry, vivid freshness and earthiness into a slender but very balanced package with a peppery finish.
2016
WairarapaNew Zealand
Martinborough VineyardMartinborough
Villa Maria, Cellar Selection Pinot Noir, Marlborough, New Zealand, 2016

From a number of vineyards in the Awatere and Wairau Valleys, think of this as the Bourgogne Rouge of Villa Maria's Marlborough Pinots, says Gordon Russell: 'unscrew, drink, enjoy'. This has an appealing sappy herbal note that gives freshness and a bit of backbone to the concentrated, juicy raspberry compote flavours, backed by gentle oaking (15% new barrels).
2016
MarlboroughNew Zealand
Villa Maria
Seifried, Old Coach Road Pinot Noir, Waimea Plains, Nelson, New Zealand, 2016

Redcurrant and cranberry provide aroma and tingling tartness on nose and palate. This has real bite and very gentlegrip, with lovely berry aromas on its light, taut palate.
2016
NelsonNew Zealand
SeifriedWaimea Plains
