Increased vineyard plantings and notable improvements in quality mean that the future looks bright for Pinot Noir in California. Read this report on 93 wines tasted by our three-strong expert panel, with an introduction by Karen MacNeil, who is region chair for California at the Decanter World Wine Awards 2018.
93 wines tasted with 2 rated Outstanding
The panel tasters were: Stephen Brook, James Doidge and Ronan Sayburn MS
Unlike Cabernet Sauvignon, which confines itself to small zones in northern California (notably Napa Valley, Santa Cruz Mountains and parts of Sonoma), Pinot Noir is grown over an 800km north-south stretch.
The specific AVAs (American Viticultural Areas) that excel with the grape are strung like pearls along the Pacific coastline. Latitude, as it turns out, isn’t very important when it comes to Californian Pinot Noir. What matters more is proximity to the cold Pacific Ocean. In summer, standing in most top Pinot vineyards feels like being in a restaurant’s walk-in refrigerator.
Pinot Noir is now the fourth most-planted grape in California, right behind Zinfandel, Cabernet Sauvignon and Chardonnay, the state’s most-planted grape. Just 20 years ago, Pinot was 10th in the line-up, far behind grapes such as Barbera and Chenin Blanc, which are increasingly absent on the contemporary scene.
Pinot’s rise can be attributed to several factors, including the introduction of new plant material in the 1990s – the Dijon clones – and the wines made from those clones.But in a uniquely Californian twist, Hollywood also played a part.Following the 2004 release of the Academy Award-winning film Sideways (about a devoted Pinot Noir fan), Pinot sales surged 18% in nine months alone. Even the glassware company Riedel reported sales increases in the US thanks to purchases of the firm’s Pinot Noir glasses.
Quality on the rise
By all accounts, the quality of California Pinot Noir has also climbed. Many (including this writer) argue that the quality increase has outshone that of any other variety.
Today, most of the top Pinots are small-lot wines, based on multiple clones grown at low yields. Most producers refrain from adding yeast, and use open-top fermenters which are punched down by hand. New oak has been on the decline for several years, with top producers using well under 50%, and many averaging around 20%.
Not surprisingly, Sonoma, Monterey and Santa Barbara lead in terms of planted area, with Napa and Mendocino not far behind. Within these areas, Pinot vineyards are always clustered in ocean-exposed cool enclaves.
There is very little Pinot Noir in Napa Valley outside of Carneros for example, and very little in Mendocino outside of the Anderson Valley.
Stylistically, the regions are difficult to tell apart (at least in blind tastings). General consensus says that Anderson Valley (the most northern top Pinot AVA) and Santa Rita Hills (the most southern) produce the lightest, most ethereal examples.
But I can immediately think of 10 Sonoma Coast wines that would fall into this category too. As is often true in California, the producer’s philosophy and hand are impossible to ignore.
The scores
93 wines tasted
Entry criteria: Producers and UK agents were invited to submit their latest release of Californian Pinot Noir
Exceptional 0
Outstanding 2
Highly Recommended 28
Recommended 57
Commended 6
Fair 0
Poor 0
Faulty 0
The results
With a trend towards increasing elegance and several standout regions, California offers plenty for Pinot Noir lovers prepared to pay the price, says Tina Gellie
With a third of wines scoring 90 points or more, this was a successful tasting, highlighting the consistency in quality and stylistic variety of Californian Pinot Noir.
‘It was fascinating,’ said James Doidge. ‘I was a bit disappointed that more wines didn’t score above 95 points, but it shows California is doing really exciting things – and especially with the huge diversity of styles.’
Ronan Sayburn MS agreed: ‘They are much improved from 15 years ago when it was all brutish, heavily oaked, high-alcohol styles that were more like Barossa Shiraz.’
The trend towards elegance was a recurring theme. ‘More moderate alcohols – 12% to 13% – is a good thing to be championing,’ said Doidge. Stephen Brook agreed: ‘I wish we’d seen more. When producers get that balance right, the wines have a mouthwatering freshness.’
They contrasted these with the ‘clumsy, gloopy’ wines of 15% or more. ‘Why does anyone make Pinot Noir like this?’ said Doidge. ‘Some were nice if you forgot they were meant to be Pinot, but typicity has to be a part of it.’
While submissions were mainly from the very good 2014 and 2015 vintages, Doidge felt vintage variation was irrelevant amid the successive good years California had enjoyed since 2011. ‘Nearly all the wines are approachable now,’ he added, ‘and the best have the structure to hold out for another 10 years.’
Looking at regionality, the big surprise of the tasting for Brook was the success of Santa Cruz Mountains. ‘We only had three wines, but two were stonking!’ Doidge’s highlights were ‘exciting’ Santa Rita and Sonoma Coast; while Sayburn picked out Napa. ‘It’s not really the right environment for Pinot Noir, but I enjoyed some more than I expected to,’ he explained.
Brook spoke for the group in assessing other areas. Anderson Valley was a ‘mixed bag’, with more wines that were ‘ungainly and alcoholic’ than those that were complex and pure. The Santa Lucia Highlands wines were ‘impressive, weighty and packed with fruit though not necessarily elegant’, while Russian River was diverse, showing ‘big, overripe styles as well as fresher examples’.
Santa Barbara and Santa Maria were ‘lively’, Edna Valley was ‘upfront and fruity’, and Carneros, ‘as so often, was a bit dull and disappointing – not at the same quality level as other coastal regions’. He was also disappointed there were so few submissions from Fort Ross-Seaview in the Sonoma Coast Highlands, which showed great promise.
Finally, the Monterey AVA provoked some debate on price. Brook appreciated these were more commercial wines, but found them ‘dull, heavy and bland’. Doidge was more positive. ‘I think it’s a really interesting area for Pinot. They’re not the cheapest, but there is great competition between producers here, so for about £20 you get a brilliant compromise between quality and price compared to, say, Sonoma or further south.’
The panel noted that comparisons with Burgundy were unfair but inevitable in a Pinot Noir tasting, but they were shocked by the high prices. ‘You can get a great Bourgogne or really good Mercurey for £30 or £40 that have more structure and complexity than some of the wines here asking £50, £60 or more,’ said Brook.
Sayburn commented that while some of the top wines were worth it, many didn’t justify their price. ‘It’s the same as in Burgundy – you have to choose your producer, but you’re not going to get any bargains.’
Our tasters each pick their top 3 wines from the tasting:
Stephen Brook
Brook has been a contributing editor to Decanter since 1996. He is the author of nearly 40 books, including The Complete Bordeaux, now the definitive study of the region, and The Wines of California, which won three awards. His most recent book is The Wines of Austria. Brook also fully revised the last two editions of Hugh Johnson’s Wine Companion.
Pescadero Creek Vineyard, Pascale Pinot Noir, Santa Cruz Mountains 2015
This small estate is new to me, but I admired this Burgundian-style wine that packs a punch and has the structure and length that many Californian Pinots lack. 95/100 Drink 2018-2023
Marimar Estate, La Masía Pinot Noir, Russian River Valley, Sonoma County 2014
Marimar Torres has decades of experience crafting fine Pinot in Russian River Valley. Impeccably balanced, with enticing elegance. 93 Drink 2018-2025
Dutton-Goldfield, Emerald Ridge Vineyard Pinot Noir, Green Valley of Russian River Valley 2014
Dan Goldfield has long made complex Pinots. This has a mix of purity, coolness and persistence that’s hard to resist. 92 Drink 2018-2023
James Doidge
Doidge has been involved in the wine trade for his entire career. In 2002 he became managing director and buyer for The Wine Treasury, a London-based importer specialising in New World wineries, especially from the US. An experienced taster who visits California regularly, he is completing the research paper of his Master of Wine qualification.
Paul Lato, Atticus Pinot Noir, Santa Rita Hills 2015
The classic Santa Rita fusion of concentration with vibrant acidity. Shows the savoury side of the variety, though with ripe cherry fruit in abundance and lovely floral notes. A really well made wine. 95 Drink 2018-2027
Field Recordings, Wonderwall Pinot noir, Edna Valley 2016
This is a light and refreshing style, not overly complex but a joy to drink. Cherries and strawberries, aromatic and elegant, just what Pinot should be. 91 Drink 2018-2024
Ghostwriter, Aptos Creek Vineyard Pinot Noir, Santa Cruz County 2014
The three Santa Cruz Pinots all showed really well. Elegant and floral aromatics, fresh acidity and silky tannins. Notes of fresh cherry, strawberry and mushroom. A long finish. 94 Drink 2018-2023
Ronan Sayburn MS
Sayburn has worked in the wine trade for 20 years as a buyer and head sommelier for Michelin-starred restaurants and hotel groups. He is chief operations officer for the Court of Master Sommeliers European chapter, runs his own consultancy and wine training company (The RS Wine Academy) and is head of wine for London private members’ club 67 Pall Mall.
Paul Lato, Atticus Pinot Noir, Santa Rita Hills 2015
Great to see sommelier-turned-winemaker Paul Lato score so highly. This shows a judicious hand: well- integrated oak surrounds cherry and raspberry; ripe and complex with a pleasant, grippy tannic structure, smoky earth, herbs and hints of minerality. 95 Drink 2018-2027
Pescadero Creek Vineyard, Pascale Pinot Noir, Santa Cruz Mountains 2014
This tiny 2ha vineyard punches above its weight. Hedonistic Pinot with intense bramble, morello cherry and raspberry jam but also an elegant and structured palate, with balanced tannins, acidity and alcohol. 97 Drink 2018-2023
Marimar Estate, La Masía Pinot Noir, Russian River Valley 2014
First-class Pinot. Fresh raspberry and pomegranate, savoury aromas, crisp acidity with full tannins and a long finish. Beautifully balanced wine; exudes elegance. 94 Drink 2018-2025
Californian Pinot Noir: the facts
Total Pinot Noir under vine (2016) 18,040ha
Sonoma 5,069ha
Monterey 3,933ha
Santa Barbara 2,133ha
Napa 1,148ha
Mendocino 1,100ha
Californian Pinot Noir: know your vintages
2017 The growing season saw significant rain ending a six-year drought. In October wildfires hit, but over 90% of the fruit had already been harvested.
2016 Wines display exceptional quality and complex flavours. This vintage is well-balanced and ageworthy.
2015 Early harvest with smaller berries than normal. Good fruit flavour, mild acids, moderate alcohols and intense aromatics.
2014 The earliest vintage in over a decade, but also one of the best. Nice balance, tannins are in check and good concentration of colour and flavour.
2013 Continued drought. Fruit showed great balance of acidity and sugar, good colour and structure, especially in cooler regions.
2012 Generous crop. The Pinot Noir showed classic varietal tones of strawberry, minerals and spices. High quality.
Top rated wines from the panel tasting down to 91 points, inclusive:
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