Valandraud Blanc: 20 vintages of Bordeaux’s most distinctive cult white tasted

Golden straw in color. The nose is fresh, clean and clear, with candied lemon, candy floss, peach and apple tones, plus spiced lemon and ginger lift. On the palate, it's crisp and immediate with an instant tangy burst that settles and expands into richness and fat, while keeping a cool, slightly honeyed core. Mouthwatering acidity drives peachy fruit layered with subtle toasted, buttery and honeyed notes underneath. Complex and multi-layered: green apple, ripe pear, a touch of peach, juicy lemon, mango and hints of bitter pineapple. Tight and tense yet lovely and filling, with almost sweet acidity, charged spice and a crisp, clean finish edged with graphite and wet stones. Full of flavour, characterful and really interesting. Give this a good air if opening soon. Characterful. Aged for nine months, 80% new oak barrels and 20% terracotta amphora. 3.26pH. Production 5,900 bottles.

Warm peaches and apricots on the nose, interwoven with lovely white flowers and florality – clean, clear and cool, with a lifted, scintillating freshness. High acidity shines through, balanced by a subtle touch of sweetness. On the palate, juicy lemon, apple, mango and a hint of bitter pineapple deliver bright initial flavour, though the fruit softens slightly toward the finish, tapering to reveal wet stones, graphite and a whisper of salted caramel. It carries a sombre yet appealing energy – really nice overall, though without quite the length or persistence of the 2023. Aged for nine months, 80% new oak barrels and 15% terracotta amphora. 3.10pH. Production 4,600 bottles.

Clean aromatics of white flowers, lotus and peach pit. Thrilling and electric, full of energy and poise with great definition – streamlined and precise yet with a juicy, succulent core. Not overly mouthwatering but integrated and calm, confident and very enjoyable. Cool wet stones and a lovely mineral finish; elegant, delicately layered, with lemon, pear and green apple notes. Crisp and poised. Aged for 10 months, 80% new oak barrels and 15% terracotta amphora. 3.20pH. Production 3,500 bottles.

Orange flower, apricot and peach aromas, with a touch of toast and caramel on the nose. Full and bold in the mouth, with good energy, focus and persistence – tightly structured yet fuelled, a little voluptuous and charged. Firm outer shell encasing cool, fresh, stony white fruit; clean and detailed. Not as open or generous as 2021 or 2023, but with lovely perfume throughout, retained acidity and subtle charm. Aged for nine months, 80% new oak barrels and 15% terracotta amphora. 3.15pH. Production 3,000 bottles.

Straw, hay, candied lemon peel, soft chalky notes, vanilla, lemongrass and herbal accents, plus boiled lemon sweets and pear drops. Lively and vibrant from the start, bursting with juicy citrus – gorgeous lemon and lime tang, cool creamy apple and pear. Comfortable and confident, with great definition and focus – feels very complete. Good to open now, with subtle toast, coffee, toasted bread and cedar spice as well as struck match and flint on the finish. A brilliant wine. Aged for 10 months, 80% new oak barrels and 15% terracotta amphora. 3.17pH. Production 5,000 bottles.

Ripe nose with toasted accents – smells big. Sombre and thick on the palate, with present but not super-lively acidity; calm and precise, though flavours are a touch muted and shy. Creamy lemon, vanilla, apricot and peach, ending clean with a hint of sweetness. Oak is well integrated, broad-shouldered with pineapple sweetness – sugary, exuberant and fat. Acidity prevents any overt heaviness although it's marked a touch by the alcohol. Aged for 10 months, 100% new oak barrels (500L, 300L and 225L). 3.05pH. Production 4,200 bottles.

White peach and a gorgeous lifted aromatic display: very floral with white flowers, candy floss, sweet and delicate white fruit – alive and open, with rhubarb, gooseberry and green orchard notes. Crisp and invigorating on the palate, juicy clean lemon like fresh juice, with pear and apple. Flows generously and easily – a great wine, really alive and fruit-driven, no oak hints, delicate. Easier and more enjoyable than 2018; great to drink today. Aged for nine months, 100% new oak barrels (500L, 300L and 225L). 3.20pH. Production 1,900 bottles.

Bright straw-lemon color. Lovely aromatic complexity: white peach, gooseberry, green apple, green/yellow/white fruit, white flowers, honeysuckle and vanilla. Juicy and alive, with great bounce and interest – a big wine with toasted, spiced edges, confident and lifted. Clean and mineral with an almost metallic tang; zingy with creamy lemon zest, lime and peach pit. Ends salty and crystalline. Firm oak structure (still a touch of strictness), but rich, delicious, round and fresh – what you'd expect from a grand vin. No Sémillon in the blend. Aged for 11 months, 100% new oak barrels (500L, 300L and 225L). 3.14pH. Production 4,800 bottles.

Fresh and floral nose: lemongrass, pear, apple skin. Alive and zingy on the palate, this has life and vibrancy with a clean crispness – sweet lemon and mango fruit, crystalline minerality, spiced and salty edges that give grip and tang. Lovely dash of sweet juicy lemon with a dusting of toasted spice. Crisp and energetic – streamlined, finessed, delicious and moreish. Aged for 10 months, 100% new oak barrels (500L, 300L and 225L). 3.09pH. Production 3,500 bottles.

Lifted, floral and expressive: honeysuckle, white flowers, peach flesh, crisp green apple skin. Light and delicate with crystalline pure fruit. The intensity tapers off towards the finish, but nice initial flavor – lemon, mango, pineapple. Everything in line: delicate, pretty, well-behaved. Creamy bright acidity lifts it; easy to drink today, great with oysters. Good maturity with ripe fruit, yet acidity, purity and precision remain – slightly more ethereal than 2017. Aged for 10 months, 100% new oak barrels (500L, 300L and 225L). 2.98pH. Production 2,900 bottles.

The nose offers inviting vanilla, lotus, honeysuckle, brioche and orange flower. Grapefruit freshness hits immediately, with lovely citrus hints and bitter lemon peel – bright and alive. Super straight and streamlined on the palate, delivering crisp purity without heavy layering. The bitter aspects shine on the finish: graphite, saline and mineral notes, balanced by lovely sweetness and salinity. A great buy – delicious to drink now, crisp yet joyful and an excellent wine.

A great surprise. Caramel notes with peach, apricot and dried fruit aromas – heady and perfumed, lovely ripe fruit and subtle toast, pear drops and boiled sweets. More juicy than the nose suggests, with subtle caramel and wild honey edges. There's a serious and oaky side but aligned to fleshy lemon, pineapple and mango. It's exuberant, round, generous, lively and clean. There's body, bounce, power and sexiness all wrapped up. Charged yet streamlined, an exotic edge balanced by alcohol and acidity – complex and delicious. Aged for 10 months, 100% new oak barrels (500L, 300L and 225L). 3.03pH. Production 2,000 bottles.

Crisp pear, peach and red apples. Lovely floral elements: white flowers, iris, salty stone nuances, cool creamy vanilla bean. Bright and punchy, with weight and fat to the fruit – slightly glycerin, a little syrupy with lemon and lime zest, but acidity prevents it from being too sombre. Energy alongside heft; less exciting than 2013 but nice, with herbal accents on the finish. No overt oak spice. Aged for 10 months, 100% new oak barrels (500L, 300L and 225L). 3.10pH. Production 1,600 bottles.

Quite muted nose, not very expressive: green apple skin and white flowers. Alive and bright, shiny and characterful on the palate. Fruit intensity limited beyond the initial burst, turning creamy with vanilla brioche edges – a little thick, nice fat (35% Sémillon proportion). Acidity not super prominent, some exotic pineapple touches; good structure and round mouthfeel with a cool, stony finish. Well-made with hedonistic appeal leaning into the wine's gourmet tendency but lacking a touch more vibrancy. Aged for 10 months, 100% new oak barrels (500L, 300L and 225L). 3.17pH. Production 3,500 bottles.

Lemon-gold color, vivid. Ripe candied fruit and caramelised notes on the nose – toasted yet expressive and open, baked apple pie, buttery with vanilla edges. Upfront and impressive on the palate: round and complete this has understated complexity and layering with toasted edges alongside lemon, apricot, honeyed pineapple, mango and a crystalline flinty finish. Not as persistent as 2016, but lots of power – a firm shell with some confit notes and touches of alcohol. Label change from this vintage. Aged for 10 months, 100% new oak barrels (500L, 300L and 225L). 3.19pH. Production 2,200 bottles.

Two bottles of the 2008 were opened, the second much better. Light yellow-gold color. Toasted on the nose (burnt caramel, dried apricots, baked yellow fruit) but bright, alive, succulent and zingy on the palate. Slightly thick texture with mature ripe fruit, mouthwatering acidity; ends clean and salty. Not the most exciting, but eminently enjoyable. Aged for 10 months, 100% 225L new oak barrels. 3.10pH. Production 3,000 bottles.

A little quiet and shy on the nose, with restrained aromatics of white flowers and stone fruit. On the palate, it's salivating with lively acidity and impressive energy, delivering clean, focused flavours and beautiful delineation of texture. There's real confidence and elegance here – streamlined and straight, having shed some of its baby fat for a more precise, integrated profile. Green apple, peach and lemon notes bring a fresh citrus tang, balanced by good weight and length. Not terribly layered or complex, but eminently enjoyable and easy to drink now, with similarities to the 2011 and 2014 in its poised, straightforward charm (though it's hard to pick a favourite among them). Aged for 10 months, 100% 225L new oak barrels. 3.15pH. Production 4,000 bottles.

The nose shows a slightly caramelised and toasted character, beautifully offset by glorious citrus lift – notes of toast, cedar, cinnamon, lemon balm and lemongrass. On the palate, it's zingy and upfront, impressively alive with a shot of rich, almost sweet-and-sour lemon juice alongside crisp green apple. There's still noticeable richness and sweetness to the fruit, giving roundness and openness, yet it remains characterful and balanced. Packed with flavour and intensity, it finishes long, cool, salty and spiced – great harmony throughout. This has considerably more body and flavour depth than the 2007, making it a real standout for pairing with rich, creamy dishes. Aged for 10 months, 100% 225L new oak barrels. 3.09pH. Production 3,300 bottles.

A slightly oxidised nose evokes mature Sauternes, with forest floor, dried apricots and marmalade scents. On the palate, great acidity delivers a salivating burst of brightness – citrus notes of lemon, lime and gooseberry, keeping it lively and persistent despite the maturity. Nicely complete and round, with enjoyable mature flavours, a touch of appealing sweetness (sugary, rich, honeyed) and a minty-fresh finish. It's evolved but still intense and invigorating – perfect if you appreciate developed profiles. Last bottle of 2005 at the estate. Aged for 10 months, 100% 225L new oak barrels. 3.10pH. Production 2,700 bottles.

Bright yellow-gold in the glass. The nose is nicely aromatic, clean and precise – less oxidised or mature than the 2005 or 2006 – with soft caramel and honey notes. On the palate, it's calm and collected, creamy with vanilla and peach flesh, showing gentle charm and good body (unlike the leaner 2007). Acidity is present, keeping it enjoyable and balanced, though more muted and less tangy than later vintages. Not a bad first vintage at all – surprisingly poised for the inaugural effort and in the hot 2003 vintage as well. Aged for 10 months, 100% 225L new oak barrels. 3.30pH. Production 585 bottles. Jean Luc put 12 bottles under screw cap every vintage for the first 10 years but they decided they weren't as good so didn't carry on. This was one of them.