Vino Nobile di Montepulciano 2016 & 2015 Riservas: Gaining ground

The 2016 vintage tested producers’ commitment and ability from the get-go, but if there is a vintage to rediscover Vino Nobile, this is it.

It didn’t start well: May and June were cool and rainy, resulting in significant disease pressure and mildew – a recurring problem throughout most of the growing season.‘We lost 20 to 25% of our grapes due to peronospera [downy mildew],’ shares Matteo Giustiniani, oenologist at the biodynamically-farmed Avignonesi estate.

July was dry and gloriously warm, with maximum temperatures reaching 35°C. Despite these ideal growing conditions, localised hail threw a wrench into the works for some. Production manager Julio Straccia estimates it compromised 10 to 20% of Gracciano della Seta’s production.

August brought moderately cooler temperatures than average, with a couple of days of abundant rain causing additional issues with botrytis.

Quick link View all Vino Nobile di Montepulciano 2016 wines from the report

The run up to harvest was warm, with sporadic rain mid-September. The sunny days aided ripening and the majority of grapes were picked between the end of September and the beginning of October.

Despite the various issues in the vineyard, Sangiovese was able to mature very slowly and without water stress. ‘It was the first time in our history that phenolic ripeness was achieved at the same time as sugar ripeness,’ says Miriam Caporali, owner of Valdipiatta. Nonetheless, ripening was not homogenous. ‘We did two to three passages in the same vineyard in order to pick the grapes at their optimal state of maturity,’ she adds.

Comparisons

In terms of yields, it was a question of whether or not an individual producer lost grapes to hail or mildew. The plants were certainly productive, with more bunches on the vine and bigger berries than 2015, due to the rain in September.

‘2016 was more complicated than 2015 as it required more selection,’ summarises Maurizio Comitini, winemaker at Croce di Febo.

Comparisons with the ‘easier’ 2015 cropped up continuously during my conversations. This highly-touted vintage produced bigger, more powerful wines with perhaps longer cellaring potential, however I found the 2016s more enjoyable with better balance.

The best 2016s offer great definition of aromas and flavours with lovely freshness, backed up by firm tannins. At times they can be somewhat rustic, but when this is subtle it adds charming character. Most significantly, the collective quality is slightly higher than in 2015. While there are still a number of over-extracted, clumsily-oaked wines, I noted less technically flawed wines than in the past.

Among the 2015 Riservas, there were some terrific wines, notably from Boscarelli, Tenuta di Gracciano della Seta and Lunadoro. However, in your quest for the best from Montepulciano, it pays to focus on producer rather than ageing category. The quality of Vino Nobile is steadily increasing. Now, producers need to work together to bring the appellation out from behind the shadow of Chianti Classico and Brunello.

Standout producers:

Boscarelli

Tenuta di Gracciano della Seta

Avignonesi

Salcheto

Producers to watch:

Combàrbia

Cantina Chiacchiera

Il Molinaccio

Michaela’s top Vino Nobile di Montepulcianos from her report:

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