Expert’s Choice: White Châteauneuf-du-Pape

Say the name and people’s first thought is of this southern Rhône region’s famed reds. But the quality and stature of Châteauneuf blanc can be just as impressive, says Matt Walls…

Outside Burgundy and other sacred sites of Pinot production, there aren’t many great terroirs that produce white and red wines of equal standing. There’s Pessac-Léognan, Rioja, Hermitage… and what about Châteauneuf-du-Pape? After a recent blind what tasting of 87 whites from the 2016 and 2017 vintages, I would say it’s certainly on its way.

Scroll down for Matt Walls’ pick of the best 18 white Châteauneuf-du-Papes

Like its more common red counterpart (just 7% of the appellation’s output is white), Châteauneuf blanc both benefits and suffers from having so many possibilities when it comes to production. The six white grape varieties (Grenache Blanc, Roussanne, Clairette, Bourboulenc, Picpoul and Picardan) can be used in any proportion, and the four principal soil types each have their own influence. This adds up to a mosaic of different styles that’s hard to summarise simply.At one end of the scale there are lean, unoaked wines which can be easy to digest but sometimes lack character and interest. At the other end, there are deep, rich, oaked iterations that are bombastic and luxurious but can lack drinkability and refreshment value – archetypal ‘one-glass wines’. But generally speaking, this hot, dry, expansive appellation produces full-bodied wines that are ripe and opulent, but dry.Historically it’s a style of wine that’s been charged with being over the top: too rich, too oaky, too alcoholic, too full-bodied. I tasted many wines that displayed one, two, or even all of these eccentricities. It remains a style to buy on recommendation, rather than buying blind. But balance is possible at every point on the spectrum.The most rewarding wines are the emerging style that’s restrained, fresh and drinkable but still generous and unmistakably Châteauneuf. A new generation of winemakers at Domaine la Barroche, Domaine du Banneret, Chante Cigale and Domaine Julien Masquin are leading the way, and I’ve concentrated on wines that represent this style in my selection.Producers were able to submit their 2016 or 2017 whites to this tasting. You can buy both vintages with confidence. The 2016 vintage in Châteauneuf was superb for reds, but also very good for whites. The wines are concentrated, vibrant and well balanced. The 2017s are marginally more intense in fruit but perhaps not quite so fresh. Both are a better bet than the 2015 vintage, which more often resulted in flabby wines that lack freshness.Châteauneuf whites can age impressively, notably Domaine de Beaurenard, Clos des Papes and Château de Beaucastel – up to 30 years in the best vintages. But they often go through awkward stages. To be safe, drink within a few years of release when youthful and vibrant. If you are brave enough to age them, leave for at least eight years before broaching.

The evolution of Châteauneuf blanc towards a fresher, more drinkable style is welcome, but this will always be a powerful, rich, generous wine – one that works naturally at the dinner table. Try using it like you would a Meursault. Preferably while wearing an ermine cloak.

Matt Walls is a Decanter contributing editor and DWWA Regional Chair for the Rhône

See Matt Walls’ pick of the best 18 white Châteauneuf-du-Papes

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