Wines of the Year 2025: Italy

Piedmont & northern Italy

The northern Italy shortlist for Wines of the Year 2025 was dominated by Barolo; I’ve only picked one however, despite such a strong showing, in order to ensure that other northerly winemaking regions are also represented.

Conterno’s Monfortino Riserva is an object of desire for Barolo lovers, and its lofty reputation is solidified by a perfect score from Michaela Morris, DWWA Regional Chair for Piedmont and author of our Barolo vintage report (see June 2025 issue).

Other high achievers of note this year include GB Burlotto’s epic Monvigliero Barolo 2021 (99 points), and a clutch of impeccable releases from Borgogno, Oddero and Bruno Giacosa; the latter’s Barbarescos were also very impressive, as you may expect from this benchmark producer.

But it is Paitin’s Sorì Paitin Vecchie Vigne Riserva 2020 that claims the spot as the top-scoring Barbaresco of the year – and one of our Wines of the Year. Elsewhere, in the northeast, Terlano’s I Primo 2019 blend is testament to the experience and dedication of winemaker Rudi Kofler.

Despite only having a handful of vintages under its belt – first vintage, 2011 – I Primo has entered the elite top echelon of Italian white wines. Across in Lombardy, Monte Rossa’s Cabochon is a powerful and concentrated Chardonnay-led Franciacorta sparkling which wowed our judges at a panel tasting held in late 2024 (see December 2024 issue).

Lastly, back over in Veneto, Bertani’s Amarone Classico 2015 effortlessly juxtaposes all of the depth and richness of Valpolicella’s flagship style with almost unbelievable levels of elegance.

Tuscany & southern Italy

Strong showings from Montalcino, Chianti Classico and Bolgheri this year made the Tuscan selection for Wines of the Year very tough. Masseto 2006 received my first ever perfect score when I tasted it alongside other vintages at a rare tasting in November 2024, so naturally it had to be included.

Our regular Italy contributor and DWWA Regional Chair for Piedmont Michaela Morris was awestruck by the single-cask Poggio di Sotto Brunello Riserva 2019 – our joint top-scoring Brunello Riserva from the year’s releases – describing it as ‘a masterpiece of proportionality’.

Although we absolutely must recognise the 99pt Cerretalto Brunello di Montalcino 2019 from Casanova di Neri, as well as the 98pt Riservas from Baricci, Biondi-Santi, Fuligni and Il Marroneto.

In the Maremma, coastal southern Tuscany, impressive results are being achieved at Le Pupille following a process of transition as Elisabetta Geppetti’s son Ettore Rizzi brings the winemaking in-house.

He’s taking over from the highly regarded consultant Luca D’Attoma, with whom he worked while he fine-tuned his own craft.

Ettore’s third vintage flying solo is crowned by an absolutely stunning 2022 Saffredi Toscana Rosso. Moving further south, in Sicily we reach Pietradolce’s Barbagalli vineyard on Etna.

For me, this is a bona-fide grand cru, with the consistency, complexity and wow-factor you might expect to find in the finest sites of Burgundy’s Côte de Nuits or Piedmont’s Langhe, combining finesse and structure to great effect.

Our sole white selection this year comes from the island of Sardinia – Siddùra’s Maìa took the top accolade, by a significant margin, at our ‘Tuscany vs Sardinia’ Vermentino panel tasting early in the year (see April 2025 issue), exemplifying the quality inherent in the small DOCG of Vermentino di Gallura when done right.

Wines of the year 2025: Italy

Wines from Piedmont and northern Italy are listed first, then Tuscany and the south

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