The finishing touch: How aged tequila is being transformed
Cask-finished tequilas are having a moment as producers in Mexico experiment with ageing methods to create complex flavours for a wider audience. Carissa Chesanek learns more and recommends four bottles to try.
Traditionally, tequila is aged in white American oak barrels to soften harsh alcohol flavours for a smoother, creamier mouthfeel. However, increasing numbers of producers are experimenting with different cask finishes to explore their effect on the tequilaās aroma, flavours and texture, while luring whisky and wine drinkers.
Each cask can contribute different levels of complexity. However, producers donāt add something just because it is different. Itās important to understand the tequila, then find a cask that enhances whatās already there.
A spirited history
Jesse Estes, global brand ambassador for Tequila Ocho
One example is Tequila Ocho Barrel Select AƱejo, which is aged in seasoned Cognac casks made from French oak. The aim is to explore not only different wood types but also previous fills.
āA seasoned Cognac cask brings the characteristics of French oak, but it also brings the history of the spirit that previously occupied it,ā says Jesse Estes, global brand ambassador for Tequila Ocho. āThe cask has already been used to mature Cognac, so its interaction with the tequila is different from that of a new barrel.ā
The goal isnāt to make tequila taste like Cognac, but to understand what the barrel can contribute while preserving the tequilaās identity. āWe don't want the barrel to become the dominant flavor in the tequila,ā says Estes. āWe want it to frame the agave.ā
Cultural exchange
Mizunara oak barrels at Casa Dragones
Casa Dragones Reposado Mizunara is the first tequila aged exclusively in Mizunara casks, a rare Japanese oak known for its use in whisky making.
āThe minerality and character of the agave remain very present,ā says Bertha GonzĆ”lez Nieves, co-founder and CEO at Casa Dragones Tequila. āItās complemented by these delicate characteristics of Japanese oak.ā
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For Nieves, itās about more than adding a unique dimension to her spirit. The relationship between the agave and Mizunara portrays something bigger. āIt represents a beautiful meeting of both Mexican and Japanese cultures,ā she says. āThanks to extraordinary traditions of craftsmanship.ā
Food fusion
Reserva de la Familia Private Cask Collection Edition No2 is finished in mole-seasoned barrels
JosĆ© Cuervoās Reserva de la Familia Private Cask Collection Edition No2 is the worldās first tequila finished in mole-seasoned barrels, paying homage to one of Mexicoās most notable dishes ā a complex savoury sauce.
āA key challenge was translating moleās complex flavour into wood,ā says Alejandro Coronado, Maestro Tequilero for Reserva de la Familia. āWe created a specialty Oaxacan red mole paste that was added directly to the interior of new American oak barrels, allowing the wood to absorb those deep, layered compounds.ā
The barrels were then thoroughly rinsed and filled with the brandās aƱejo tequila. The result was an expression unlike anything before. āWhat makes this approach so unique is that nothing is added directly to the liquid,ā says Coronado. āThe wood does all the work.ā
Speciality casks
Sergio Mendoza, co-founder of Don Fulano
Returning to France, Don Fulano Reposado is made with mature highland agave and aged in French Limousin oak from southwest France, which adds distinct character to the spirit.
āFrench Limousinās elegant and subtle dry spice character complements the natural roundness of our mature highland agave base,ā says Sergio Mendoza, co-founder of Don Fulano. āOur aim is to let the product express itself through its long maturation without letting the barrel dominate with over-woodiness.ā
But the cask experimentation doesnāt stop there. āWe like to play with specialty casks, such as with oloroso and amontillado Sherry or Calvados,ā explains Mendoza. āThis provides more subtle finishes or coupages.ā
Whisk(e)y galore
JosƩ Valdez, Master Tequilero at Tequila Partida
Tequila Partidas AƱejo is aged in ex-bourbon barrels before finishing in Sherry-seasoned ex-single malt Scotch casks for expansive complexity and depth.
āEx-bourbon contributes a rounder and softer texture, complementing the natural cooked-agave profile very well,ā says JosĆ© Valdez, Master Tequilero at Tequila Partida. āThe ex-single malt Scotch sherry-seasoned casks take the tequila in another direction with additional depth and complexity.ā
Using different casks not only helps producers deepen their understanding of the craft behind maturation, but also see what is possible.
āInnovation in tequila is about having the courage to explore, but also the discipline to know when to say no,ā says Valdez. āMy role is not simply to create something new, but to make sure that what we create respects the agave.ā
Cask-finished tequilas: four to try
Casa Dragones Reposado Mizunara
Made with 100% pure blue agave and aged exclusively in new Mizunara casks, a rare oak from Japan. Orange blossom and honey hit the nose, leading to a warm oaky palate and a lingering touch of spice. Ideal on its own or over ice. Alcohol 40%
Don Fulano Reposado
Crafted with mature highland agave and natural spring volcanic water, then aged in French limousine oak. Warm vanilla and butterscotch led by baking spices and pepper with a slight smoky finish. A fine choice to elevate your Margarita. Alc 40%
JosƩ Cuervo Reserva de la Familia Private Cask Collection Edition No2
The only tequila finished in casks seasoned with an Oaxacan red mole paste. Distinctive peppery aromas complemented by sweet cacao on the tongue with a chocolatey finish. Well suited for a spirit-forward El Presidente cocktail. Alc 40%
Partida Roble Fino AƱejo
Aged for 18 months in ex-bourbon barrels, then finished for an additional five months in Sherry-seasoned ex-single malt Scotch casks. A sweet start of caramel and pear with an oakier mouthful that leads to a clean finish. A nice pick for an Oaxaca-style Old Fashioned. Alc 45%
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Carissa Chesanek is a food and spirits writer based in Brooklyn. Her work has been seen in Imbibe, InsideHook, Food Network, Vinepair, Whisky Advocate, and Alcohol Professor. When she's not writing, she's on the hunt for the best Old Fashioned.