The advent of National Scotch Day on Saturday 27 July is a reminder that there’s a day for just about everything in 2024. Today – as I write these words on 17 July – is National Hot Dog Day. It’s also, apparently, National Lottery Day, National Tattoo Day and World Emoji Day. Combine all four and you’d have quite the celebration.
Whisky isn’t exactly short of its own moments in the limelight. There’s International Scotch Day on 8 February. This was invented by leading Scotch producer Diageo in 2017 and marks the birthday of Alexander Walker of Johnnie Walker fame.
If you miss it, don’t worry. International Whisky Day falls on 27 March, and is followed, on the third Sunday in May, by World Whisky Day. Not to mention Hogmanay, Burns Night, Father’s Day, Mother’s Day, birthdays, anniversaries…
Plenty of opportunities, then, to crack open a decent bottle of whisky, whatever its provenance. But National Scotch Day turns the spotlight squarely on Scotland – the country that many people still consider the spiritual home of whisky (look away now, Ireland).
Historic moment
Why 27 July? It’s said to mark what is purportedly the first written reference to making whisky in Scotland. The moment when, according to the Exchequer Rolls of Scotland of 1494, one Friar John Cor was given eight bolls of malt ‘wherewith to make aqua vitae’. A boll was an old Scots measure of volume; aqua vitae was the Latin term for ‘water of life’ – or what we now call Scotch whisky.
Distillation had almost certainly been going on in Scotland for some time before this, but it’s still quite a landmark. It’s also by no means certain that the good Friar – probably a member of the Dominican order in the service of King James IV – was making ‘whisky’ at all. Aqua vitae was also an essential ingredient in gunpowder. While the scientists of the day used it in their explorations of the mysteries of alchemy.
But never mind about that. The crucial point is that 27 July provides us with an excellent excuse – as if we needed one – to celebrate the liquid miracle that is Scotch whisky. How to celebrate? With a judiciously chosen dram or two of course.
What to drink
Where to look, though? You can’t let the day pass without referencing the classics. But at the same time there are always some cracking new expressions that deserve a nod.
If you’ve never tried Ballantine’s 17 or Glenfarclas 15, where have you been? But don’t miss out on terrific new releases such as Lochlea’s latest cask strength incarnation, or the reimagined classic that is Glenmorangie 12.
The world of whisky is a large and cosmopolitan one these days, but it’s still nice – for one day, at least – to revel in the cornucopia of flavours that only Scotch whisky can offer. Hot dogs and tattoos optional.
Best Scotch whisky: 15 to try
Ardbeg Corryvreckan
Cheekily named after a whirlpool that sits between Jura and Scarba – not Islay – this is a rich, meatily spicy whisky with lots of juicy, brambly fruits and dark chocolate to supplement Ardbeg’s trademark briny smoke. Many prefer the distillery’s Uigeadail bottling, but this expression has always hit the spot for me. Alcohol 57.1%
Ardgowan Clydebuilt Anchorsmith
Ardgowan has prefaced the opening of its distillery with a terrific series of sourced whiskies. This blended malt – using liquid from the Lowlands, Highlands and Speyside – is the final one. Dripping with juicy cassis fruit, the heavily Sherried style majors on chocolate-dipped prunes, tangy marmalade and roasted hazelnut. Alc 46%
Ardnahoe Inaugural Release
The first whisky from Hunter Laing’s Islay distillery, bottled at five years old, doesn’t aim to reinvent the wheel. But the obvious Islay flavours – bonfire smoke especially – are undercut by pleasing notes of ripe pear, toasted teacakes and a little meaty grunt from the use of worm tub condensers. Alc 50%
Ballantine’s 17 Year Old
Blendophobes should try this, and think again. A superlative evocation of the art of blending – even after seeing its strength cut from 43% – combining fleshy fruit and an unctuously creamy, vanilla-accented and honeyed palate. Silky, smooth and utterly seductive. Alc 40%
Dalmore 16 Year Old Luminary The Collectible 2024 Edition
The lower-priced (a relative term) of this year’s two Luminary releases, this 16 year old is a classic expression from the Highland distillery, showing rich flavours of assorted tropical fruits, antique furniture and coffee roaster. There’s an elusive floral element and a slight vegetal tang to lift proceedings. Alc 48.6%
Glen Moray 2012 Peated Rioja Cask Finish Warehouse 1
Wine cask-matured whiskies can be tricky beasts – all too easily tripping over into cloying sweetness. This, however, is a delight, combining lightly peated Glen Moray with a Rioja cask finish to produce a gently smoky, cigar leaf-scented whisky with plum and damson highlights. Alc 58.8%
Glenfarclas 15 Year Old
Glenfarclas offers consistently superb quality – and excellent value for money. Hugely characterful distillate and Sherry oak make for rich flavours of Demerara sugar, raisin fudge, cinnamon and nutmeg, all backed up by hints of smoke and butterscotch. Alc 46%
Glenglassaugh 12 Year Old
This flagship expression from Glenglassaugh was a long time coming – the coastal distillery was silent from 1986 to 2008. There’s bright, zesty fruit with praline and walnut from ex-Sherry wood, deepening into liquorice and stewed plum from red wine casks – and a whisper of marine salinity. Alc 45%
Glenmorangie The Original 12 Years Old
The ‘new original’ from this Highland distillery sees the age statement move from 10 to 12 years. But otherwise it remains a classic evocation of Glenmo’s zesty, ethereal spirit matured in ex-bourbon casks. There’s a bit more grunt, and the lemon scents are verging into peach and apricot. Still a classic. Alc 40%
House of Hazelwood The Garden at Hazelwood
This remarkable 47-year-old blend from the Grant family archives is part of the third tranche of House of Hazelwood releases. There’s a lightness of touch here, involving apple juice, rose garden scents and summer hayloft, plus some firm structure and wine cellar aromas from the wood. A prickle of peppermint lifts the finish. Alc 43.7%
Johnnie Walker Blue Label Ghost & Rare Glenury Royal
Part of a series highlighting the ‘ghost’ distilleries included in Johnnie Walker’s Blue Label blend. This focuses on the rich fruitiness of Glenury Royal, which closed in 1985. Shy at first, it hits explosively hedonistic form on the palate, adding vanilla, heather honey and dried fruits to Glenury’s expressive style. Alc 43.8%
Kingsbarns Coaltown
A characteristically white wine-pale, gently aromatic release from the Fife distillery. But on this occasion the scents of heather, peony and grated lemon are accompanied by gentle aromas of beach bonfire from maturation in ex-peated casks. An approachable, Highball-friendly dram. Alc 46%
Lochlea Cask Strength Batch 2
An intriguing release from this Ayrshire distillery, turning the spotlight on the cask rather than the young (four to five years) spirit. With ex-Pedro Ximénez and oloroso wood to the fore, there’s lots of weight and intensity here, the scented floral spirit is all but subsumed under peppery, spicy European oak. Handle with care. Alc 60%
Tomatin 12 Year Old Sherry Cask
Full maturation in ex-Sherry wood takes Tomatin’s signature smooth, aromatic spirit profile off in new directions, bringing in flavours of Seville orange, ripe mango and classic notes of baking spices, dried fruits and hazelnuts. Slightly drying on the finish, with dark chocolate and roasted chestnut. Alc 40%
Torabhaig Allt Gleann Batch Strength
Distilled during Torabhaig’s experimental phase between 2017 and 2018, this is matured in ex-bourbon casks. Smoky, briny, maritime single malt writ large – thanks to a formidably phenolic character and a mildly eye-watering bottling strength. Big, bold, but balanced – and impossible to ignore. Alc 61.1%