A journey of exploration: How Ramón Bilbao’s whites are leading the way

The Ramón Bilbao vineyards.

(Image credit: The Ramón Bilbao vineyards)

Spain’s Rioja is a classic wine region, known around the world for its distinctive red wines. But ‘classic’ doesn’t mean conventional – at least not for leading winery Ramón Bilbao, a champion of innovation and experimentation since its foundation in Haro in 1924. Nowhere is this pioneering spirit more evident than in the winery’s production of white wines. They include Límite Norte, a daring, cool-climate blend of Tempranillo Blanco and Maturana Blanca grown in the extreme west of Rioja.

The Ram&oacute;n Bilbaowinery in Rueda. — The Ramón Bilbao winery in Rueda.

Beyond Rioja: A new approach to Spanish whites

But Ramón Bilbao has looked beyond Rioja in its quest to produce exceptional whites, travelling to the region of Rueda on the Castilian plateau. Here the average altitude rises above 700m and this elevation creates a pronounced diurnal temperature range in the vineyards.

‘During ripening, this allows the grapes to accumulate sugars and aromatic complexity under the sun, while the cooler nocturnal temperatures preserve the natural acidity so essential for the vibrancy and freshness we seek in our white wines,’ says Sara Bañuelos, director of Ramón Bilbao Rueda.

Rueda’s signature variety is Verdejo. ‘This hardy, thick-skinned cultivar is exceptionally well adapted to the climate, capable of withstanding intense summer heat and periods of water scarcity, while consistently delivering outstanding quality and a remarkable balance in the wines it produces,’ explains Bañuelos.

‘We’ve discovered that Verdejo is remarkably versatile: while it produces the fresh, youthful styles for which Rueda is renowned, it also has the potential to yield ageworthy, structured wines of great longevity,’ she adds.

Sara Ba&ntilde;uelos, director of Ram&oacute;n Bilbao Rueda. — Sara Bañuelos, director of Ramón Bilbao Rueda.

Spirit of innovation

By studying Rueda’s diverse soils and experimenting with viticultural techniques, Bañuelos has created wines such as Early Harvest Verdejo, ‘made from grapes picked at an earlier stage to capture lower alcohol levels and a distinctive, crystalline freshness’.

Innovations in the winery include experimentation with varied materials for fermentation and ageing. Take Finca Las Amedias, a blend of Verdejo and Sauvignon Blanc, aged for 24 months in French oak foudres, with a further 24 months in concrete. Or Verdejo Sobre Lías, a textured wine that depends on meticulous use of lees contact.

‘Of course, our journey of exploration continues,’ says Bañuelos. ‘We are working with new plots, diverse soil types, varied training systems, and alternative grape varieties. Each experiment is an opportunity – some of which may ultimately give birth to new wines that extend and enrich the Ramón Bilbao story in Rueda,’ she explains.