America’s most established eastern wine region demonstrated its mastery and appeal in London, displaying what it does best with a selection of Riesling, while at the same time giving attendees a sense of the state’s range and versatility.
While much of the wine world is focused on the US West Coast, the wines of New York have found London and the UK to be vibrant markets. The crowded stand at the London Fine Wine Encounter and the enthusiasm heard by those tasting the wines showed an understanding and appreciation for a climate and place that is undoubtedly cool.
Riesling is the reason
While Riesling may have brought people to the table, wine lovers discovered that alongside the variety that put New York State on the map, there was a diversity of places and wines to discover, offering something for everyone.
The myriad of Rieslings on the table was not a surprise, but the versatility of styles told a story of both the region’s history and a sense of the future. The four Rieslings included wines from the country’s founding winery for the variety, Dr Konstantin Frank, the stalwart top-tier Hermann J. Wiemer, and perhaps New York’s most exciting new brand, Apollo’s Praise.
Apollo’s Praise winemaker and co-owner Kelby James Russell found an eager audience in London. ‘As the event rolled along, word was clearly spreading to other guests, and we kept getting busier and busier,’ said Russell. ‘When do you ever hear people come up to a stand and unprompted ask to try the Rieslings because they have heard so much about them? That was new for me’.
Tremendous variety
Sparkling wines, Cabernet Franc, and an alluring Ramato from Long Island producer Channing Daughters also impressed the London wine cognoscenti. A packed house at the Landmark Hotel in Marylebone took particular note of the wines from the Empire State.
‘The diversity on the stand impressed our visitors,’ Russell noted. ‘From sparkling to Ramato to the distinct New York expression of Cabernet Franc, across eight wines, we had something for any consumer and something that positively impressed them.’
‘In London, we find trade and consumers with a fresh perspective and eager tastebuds. We see a market that is consistently impressed by our wines, the European leaning of our styles, and the competitiveness of our price points in the midrange and up. New York wines are more than a curiosity in the UK, and as our exports mature, I think they are destined to be more than a niche,’ Russell concluded.
Wines tasted at the Decanter London Fine Wine Encounter 2024
Empire Estate, Brut Rosé, Finger Lakes, New York State NV
Stockist:Good Wine Good People
Bright and delightful, the Empire Estate Brut Rosé offers a generosity of sweet cherry blossom aromatics with classic notes of bright citrus. The wine blends 95% Riesling with 5% Pinot Noir for colour. On the palate, we see red bramble fruits, piquant blood orange zest, and a dash of stony minerality to finish.
Apollo’s Praise, Dry Riesling, Finger Lakes, New York 2023
Stockists:Divine Cellars and Handford Wines
The inaugural vintage of Apollo’s Praise, the lauded and much-anticipated release from winemakers Julia Hoyle and Kelby James Russell, is made with estate fruit from the well-regarded Lahoma Vineyard in the Finger Lakes. This Dry Riesling shows citrus pith and fresh thyme alongside a saline tone of ocean air. The palate shows a generosity of spirit, with candied peaches, lemon curd and a hint of honeyed ginger buoyed by the fresh, stony mineral finish.
Hermann J. Wiemer, HJW Bio Riesling, Seneca Lake, Finger Lakes, New York 2020
Stockist: Wanderlust Wines and Good Wine Good People (2017 Vintage)
A vineyard block selection from the HJW vineyard, farmed using biodynamic practices. Expressive but precise and refined, the HJW Bio Riesling offers subtle aromatics of elderflower, crushed chalk and dried kaffir lime leaves. The palate is lithe and linear, with ample verve and impressive elegance. Flavours of fresh apricot, peach skin and lime zest are backed up by generous and predominant minerality. The palate is a study in nuance and freshness.
Keuka Lake Vineyards, Dry Riesling, Keuka Lake, Finger Lakes, New York 2021
Stockist: Ally Wines
Delicate and refined. The Keuka Lake Vineyards brand has become known as one of the country’s most remarkable single vineyard Riesling producers. Each vintage, their seven mature Riesling sites are tasted to determine the single-vineyard designates. The non-designated wines become part of this blend. The calibre of Riesling is clear. Gorgeous mineral clarity in the aromatics as crushed slate and salinity rise up with notes of lime zest, white flowers and lemon sherbet sweets. The palate offers excellent texture owing to the 10 months on lees. Lemon curd, salted lemon wedge and a stony mineral finish.
Dr Konstantin Frank, Dry Riesling, Finger Lakes, New York State 2023
Stockist: Wine Hub
From America’s founding name in Riesling, the dry iteration is a regional benchmark, coming from vines dating back to 1958, from both estate vineyard sites. It is zippy and electric, with sterling acidity. Lemon zest buoys notes of peach fuzz and candied ginger. The palate shows a pulsating citrus verve. Cut green apples, salty lemon peel, and crushed slate finish the show.
Channing Daughters, Ramato, Long Island, New York 2022
Stockist: Wanderlust Wines
A captivating blend of 92% Pinot Grigio and 8% Muscat. This is a skin contact wine for the doubters. This wine sits on its skins for 19 days before maturation in old French and Slovenian oak for eight months. Aromatically beguiling, with exotic notes of dates, dried apricots and Moroccan spices. The palate is sleek and beautifully textured with honeyed apricots and ripe Brazilian papaya, finishing with spiced apple cake.
Hosmer, Cabernet Franc, Finger Lakes, New York State 2021
Stockist: Vineyard Cellars
A bright garnet colour announces this brilliant, fresh Cabernet Franc from New York’s Cayuga Lake. Aromas of dusty early-season raspberry, fresh mint and savoury depth abound. The palate is so well structured and complete. Bright freshness brought on by ample red berry fruits, an undercurrent of Earl Grey tea, and savoury balsamic and umami flavours saturate the mouthfeel. It’s fresh, delicious and complex – it’s tremendous value.
Lamoreaux Landing, T23 Cabernet Franc, Finger Lakes, New York State 2022
Stockist: Good Wine Good People, Cheers Wine Merchants, Shaftesbury Wines and Barrique Fine Wines
An unoaked Cabernet Franc which delivers on the purity of fruit. Sourced from three different sites; Yellow Dog, Passmore and the Clawson vineyards. A fresh, bright Cabernet Franc offering wild red and black bramble berries, and freshly chopped herbs. There is a fruity intensity to this wine on the palate. Pure blue fruits mingle with mountain herbs, chopped mint and dashes of white pepper. Delicious.
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