Pioneers in excellence: White icons of Rioja

Remírez de Ganuza's vineyards comprise more than 200 plots across nine municipalities in the foothills of Sierra Cantabria.

(Image credit: Remírez de Ganuza's vineyards comprise more than 200 plots across nine municipalities in the foothills of Sierra Cantabria)

Rioja: a name synonymous with some of the world’s great red wines. It might therefore come as something of a surprise that Remírez de Ganuza, one of the region’s leading producers (its 2004 Gran Reserva received acclaim from international critics, including a perfect 100-point score), has staked so much on making world-class whites.

Remírez de Ganuza is situated in the heart of Rioja Alavesa and owns vineyards in famed winemaking municipalities including Samaniego, Labastida and San Vicente de la Sonsierra. Its 80ha are spread across 200 parcels, including old vines of white varieties.

Rooted in the vines

These outstanding vineyards inspired Fernando Remírez de Ganuza, the winery’s founder, to launch his first white Rioja more than 20 years ago – at a time when there were very few good examples. The pioneering decision to add premium white wines to the range was based on a belief in the sheer potential of the vineyards, rather than a mere commercial opportunity. ‘We are always looking for quality and to use our knowledge of the vines to make something special’, explains José Ramón Urtasun, the winery’s owner.

Left: The single-vineyard Blanco Gran Reserva Olagar; right: the Viña Coqueta vineyard in Samaniego.

Creating the aged wines of the future

Today, Remírez de Ganuza produces two premium white wines: the Blanco Reserva and the Blanco Gran Reserva Olagar. ‘At that time there was absolutely no trend for ageworthy whites’, says Urtasun, ‘but I think there are some consumers who really do understand the concept of a white that will age, and others simply care that it’s a good wine’.

Both wines are made from local varieties Viura (100% in the case of the Blanco Gran Reserva Olagar), Malvasía and Garnacha Blanca. The Blanco Reserva is fermented in new French oak barrels, where it then ages for eight months on the lees. The Blanco Gran Reserva – sourced from a single vineyard planted in 1978, known as ‘Olagar’ – spends ten months in oak and several years in bottle before release.

Ahead of the market

When the Remírez de Ganuza Blanco Reserva was first made available on the market in 2015, the entire production sold out in only two months, leaving customers wanting more. But as Urtasun acknowledges, ‘This is a good problem to have. It means the wines are truly sought after’.

Wines are only released when they are ready to drink: a philosophy that underpins red wine ageing in Rioja – and that Remírez de Ganuza has extended to its white wines, the future icons of Rioja.