Dominating the horizon over the Castilian Plain, the Peñafiel Castle watches over the gnarly bush vines of Ribera del Duero. Strong, commanding, majestic. And below the hill on which it is perched, an equally important part of the region’s history is hidden deep underground.
1927 marked the first vintage of what would become Bodegas Protos, and decades later, these tunnels were carved out to age what had become highly awarded wines.
The Protos winery, with Peñafiel Castle in the background.
Winemaker Marilena Bonilla first walked into this history-steeped winery in 2005. ‘I was impressed by the history and the prestige of the brand,’ Bonilla explains. ‘But with time, I discovered something even more valuable: the team’s commitment to improving and maintaining quality, as well as the winery’s remarkable ability to adapt without losing its identity.’
Decanter sat down with Bonilla to explore her extraordinary journey over two decades at Protos:
Rooted in the vines
Marilena, after more than 20 years in charge of one of Spain’s most iconic brands, what do you think have been some of the most important changes?
Marilena Bonilla (MB): The biggest transformation has been in the vineyard. Today we know each plot like never before and we try to express its unique character in the wines. This detail allows us to respect our history while always looking to the future.
We are also focusing on cooler, higher-altitude areas, such as the vineyards of Soria. We are planting the best clones of our Tinta del País at 1,000 metres of altitude which brings balance and personality to our wines.
Some of the Protos team.
Is there one particular wine that reflects this work in the vines? One that’s a bit more special to you, personally?
MB: Carroa 2021 holds a very special place in my heart. It reflects the passion, enthusiasm, and dedication of the entire team to create fine and elegant wines. It is one of our most distinctive wines and forms part of the Origen de Protos range which is focused on typicity and authenticity.
And ‘elegance’ – what does that mean for you in a wine from Ribera del Duero?
MB: It’s the harmony between fruit, structure, and freshness that creates a sense of fluidity and finesse. It reminds you of the vineyard and the time that has shaped the wine.
A bright future
Over the course of two decades, there have been a lot of developments at Protos, like new wineries in Rueda and Cigales. What is the philosophy that drives these changes?
MB: Evolution without losing our identity. We want to build on our knowledge of our vineyards through innovation, and, above all, the talent and passion of everyone who is part of this great family. The new winery in Soria and the high altitude vineyards are key. They allow us to explore new horizons and continue creating wines with identity and personality.
Celebrating the 2025 harvest at Protos.
Speaking of horizons, next year is the 100 year anniversary of Protos – have you been working on something to celebrate?
MB: Yes! We have created Protos 100, a wine made from a blend of vintages that brings together the best of 2020, 2021 and 2022 from our century-old vineyards. It is a wine that reflects our history and dedication.
And finally, Marilena, in one word, how would you describe the future at Protos?
MB: Exciting! Every decision, every harvest, and every wine comes from our passion and pushes us to keep moving forward.
Discover more about Protos: bodegasprotos.com/en
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