Cellar Collection 2025 at the Decanter Fine Wine Encounter London: A journey through iconic wines
Hundreds of wine lovers journeyed to all corners of the globe in the DFWE's exclusive Cellar Collection room in London, where 21 producers poured 130 wines – including three back vintages of one flagship cuvée. Tina Gellie reports on the day, while members of Decanter's tasting team pick a top wine from each table.
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Passports in hand, they waited patiently. Despite getting there early to avoid the inevitable crowds, the queue quickly grew; the hundreds of like-minded souls buzzing with excitement at their impending world tour.
No, not your typical Saturday morning at Heathrow Terminal 5, but outside The Empire Room at the Landmark London Hotel, where wine lovers attending London’s 28th Decanter Fine Wine Encounter (DFWE) were awaiting entry to the exclusive Cellar Collection 2025.
Scroll down for tasting notes and scores of 21 wines: a highlight from each producer at the Cellar Collection 2025
This year’s Cellar Collection – the fourth edition – offered guests the chance to experience a deep dive into a flagship cuvée from 21 estates.
In a curated mini vertical, each winery poured three back vintages of one iconic wine to demonstrate its evolution, with several bottles more than 25 years old.
Many estates brought up to eight wines – some in magnums and double magnums – to further boost the exclusivity of this experience.
Tickets to the Cellar Collection 2025, which held one three-hour session in the morning and then another in the afternoon, were strictly limited and available to purchase in addition to the Grand Tasting tickets.
And as with last year, the calibre of producers ensured both sessions sold out.
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Each guest received a Cellar Collection passport, gaining a stamp at each table visited on their world tour – a memento of meeting the people behind these famous estates and having them introduce three different vintages of an iconic wine in person.
Cellar Collection 2025: a world wine tour
When the doors opened, the crowds raced to Italy’s Masottina for its range of Prosecco and to Champagne houses Palmer & Co and Drappier.
Saint Clair from Marlborough in New Zealand, Napa Valley estate Chappellet and Rioja’s Remírez de Ganuza flew the flags for their respective countries as did Lebanon’s Chateau Musar, generously pouring a 1999 vintage of its flagship Bekaa Valley cuvée.
From South America it was Argentina’s Achaval Ferrer and Catena Zapata alongside Chile’s Santa Rita and Seña, with the latter showing five of its eight wines in magnum and the 2020 flagship cuvée in jeroboam.
Left Bank Bordeaux châteaux comprised three of France’s seven stands this year: St-Estèphe third-growth Calon-Ségur, Margaux second-growth Brane-Cantenac and Pessac-Léognan property Domaine de Chevalier.
This cru classé de Graves not only brought double magnums of each vintage of its grand vin red mini vertical (as well as a magnum of its 2015 grand vin white), but the 1995 was the oldest wine in the room.
M Chapoutier took the plaudits for the most diverse stand, showing six Rhône wines – including a trio of his Ermitage La Pavillon cuvée – as well as a Riesling from his Schieferkopf estate in Alsace and a white blend from his Bila-Haut domaine in Roussillon.
Italy was represented by four producers: Marchesi di Barolo from Piedmont, Fontodi from Tuscany and a brace of wineries from Sicily – Donnafugata and Cantine Florio, whose complex, saline 1998 Marsala Vergine Riserva was the second oldest wine in the room.
To finish on a sweet note, our Cellar Collection 2025 visitors clamoured to taste the three vintages of Sauternes from Bordeaux’s Château Suduiraut and the Nyulászó 6 Puttonyos Aszú from Hungary’s Royal Tokaji Co.
See you next year!
Passports stamped and memories made, our intrepid travellers disembarked from the Cellar Collection and continued their world wine adventures in the Grand Tasting, with occasional layovers in Masterclasses.
If you already have wine wanderlust we hope to see some of you at the DFWE Singapore on 22 November.
Or, for those based in the US, join us at our DFWE New York on 6 June. Look out for details on our events page.
Until then, read our full event report from London’s DFWE, check out our photo highlights and keep an eye peeled for our Masterclass reports on Decanter Premium soon.
Cellar Collection 2025: a highlight from each producer
Drappier, Oenothèque, Champagne, France, 2003

Although 2003 is infamous for its intense heatwave, this wine shows remarkable freshness and elegance. It glows with seductive, gorgeous candied lemon aromas. It has great depth of flavour, with notes of caramelised nuts alongside the shiny Mirabelle plums and ripe stone fruit. It balances sunny warmth with a taut, pithy texture and fresh acidity. Truly a lovely wine that is a delight to drink now. The Drappier family's Oenothèque range offers a unique glimpse at rare older vintages long-aged on the lees, disgorged as and when required.
2003
ChampagneFrance
Drappier
Palmer & Co, Blanc de Blancs Brut, Champagne, France, 2013

Flowering arrived late in 2013, not until July, though it was followed by a warm summer. Aged on lees for eight years and finished with a 6.5g/l dosage, this magnum immediately impresses with its creamy brioche richness, underpinned by peachy fruit, lemon tart and citrus zest. A saline tang leads into a generous, buttery palate of toasted notes and hazelnut cream, lifted by a bright yellow-citrus freshness that lingers.
2013
ChampagneFrance
Palmer & Co
Masottina, RDO Levante Extra Dry Rive di Ogliano, Prosecco, Conegliano-Valdobbiadene Superiore Rive, Veneto, Italy, 2020

While most Prosecco is drunk young, this example from Masottina is proof that top bottles can age delightfully. RDO stands for Rive di Ogliano DOCG, a special selection from the hilly terroir of Ogliano, made according to strict guidelines to ensure quality. From 60-year-old vines on an east-facing slope, it offers very creamy aromas of honey, delicate pear and chamomile – dainty and elegant. The palate is nicely rounded, where honey, peach, apricot and tropical notes give way to a lingering savoury finish.
2020
VenetoItaly
MasottinaProsecco
Domaine de Chevalier, Blanc, Pessac-Léognan, Cru Classé de Graves, Bordeaux, France, 2015

Tasted from magnum at 10 years old, this is drinking beautifully now but still with an easy decade of evolution ahead. It has remarkable concentration and opulence while maintaining a vivid seam of freshness. Focused, flinty aromas join juicy guava, passionfruit and peach blossom. The silky, seamless palate shows beautifully integrated oak, quenching acidity and lingering flavours of mandarin peel, roasted lemon and exotic tropical fruits. Precise, crisp and fresh – a real charmer from this warm vintage.
2015
BordeauxFrance
Domaine de ChevalierPessac-Léognan
Remírez de Ganuza, Blanco Reserva, Rioja, Northern Spain, Spain, 2021

While immediately recognisable as an aged white Rioja – it's a blend of 75% Viura, 5% Malvasía and 20% other varieties from vines averaging 60 years of age in the Sierra Cantabria foothills, fermented then aged for six months in French oak barrels, 76% new and 24% second-use – this is a wine with its own personality. Savoury notes and a touch of umami are evident – as is the oak influence – but there is a fresh core that reflects the structure of the vintage. White floral notes and lemony freshness lead to a rich and layered palate with a saline finish. Hugely satisfying now, this will surely also develop with time.
2021
Northern SpainSpain
Remírez de GanuzaRioja
Catena Zapata, Nicolás Catena Zapata, Luján de Cuyo, Mendoza, Argentina, 2019

Drinking beautifully, this shows a fresher side of Catena Zapata's flagship wine. Cranberry, pomegranate and red cherry mingle on the palate, topped with fragrant notes of violets, cedar and sage. Expressive and fluid, there's great approachability and balance but this still has significant development potential.
2019
MendozaArgentina
Catena ZapataLuján de Cuyo
M Chapoutier, Le Pavillon, Hermitage, Rhône, France, 2009

A dense, immense, towering forest of a wine. Seemingly impenetrable at first, it offers small openings into its dark depths through waves of aromatics that leap from smoking pine wood to green peppercorns to baked plum. It is explosive in the mouth, intense and concentrated, with notes of dark chocolate, bramble, hoisin sauce and rich dark soil. It still feels so fresh, buoyed by its racy acid. The tannins are fairly chewy and grainy. Tasted from magnum.
2009
RhôneFrance
M ChapoutierHermitage
Seña, Aconcagua Valley, Chile, 2013

A wine about to reach its prime, this has a beautiful cloak of sage, bayleaf, dried oregano and thyme, over dense prune, black olive and blackcurrant. The tannins are soft, round and pleasantly earthy, holding the fine flavours with assertive ease. A tail of refreshing dry parsley and Earl Grey lingers eleantly on the palate. Beautiful, nuanced and expressive, with the mischievous greenness of Carmenère and Petit Verdot piercing through.
2013
Aconcagua ValleyChile
Seña
Achaval Ferrer, Finca Altamira, Mendoza, Argentina, 2021

An expressive, robust minerality builds the framework of this fine, structured Malbec, with great sense of place and potential to develop in bottle. A juicy core of red plum, cherry and ripe fig is sprinkled with graphite and liquorice, and elegantly covered by a thin veil of cardamom and nutmeg. A wine to revisit in years to come.
2021
MendozaArgentina
Achaval Ferrer
Chateau Musar, Bekaa Valley, Lebanon, 2010

Mushroom and forest floor open into saffron, dried cranberry and dates. Born in a record-breaking dry and hot vintage (the Bekaa Valley reached 48.5°C) some of the grapes were sundried at harvest, concentrating both sugar and acidity. The 2010 has a ripe, juicy palate with an ardent core of dried wild berries, balsamic and sweet spices, yet remains effortlessly graceful, unravelling an endless melody of dried strawberry and Earl Grey tea.
2010
Bekaa ValleyLebanon
Chateau Musar
Fontodi, Flaccianello della Pieve, Colli della Toscana Centrale, Tuscany, Italy, 2021

A blend from three parcels of organically grown grapes at the Fontodi estate in Panzano, this 100% Sangiovese wine is still incredibly youthful as you would expect, but beneath the muscular, powerful structure, you can already discern a solid core of dark briary fruit, plus notes of coffee and cocoa-dusted cherries. Silky tannins and freshening acidity balance the density and innate power. A great wine from a great vintage for Tuscan red.
2021
TuscanyItaly
FontodiColli della Toscana Centrale
Marchesi di Barolo, 10 Years Limited Edition, Barolo Sarmassa, Barolo, Piedmont, Italy, 2010

In what was widely considered an excellent vintage, Marchesi di Barolo's Sarmassa is a richly hedonistic wine with great depth and character. Its aromatic display spans dark chocolate, wet leaves, dried fig, prune and oud spice. It promises to be a big wine, so the silkiness of its tannins and texture is a wonderful surprise. The fruit, although showing tertiary character, is still ripe and plush, and the impression is of plump berries rolled in still smoking embers. This is a limited edition late-release version of Marchesi di Barolo's Sarmassa cuvée, which has been stored in bottle in pristine conditions in the estate's cellars for 10 years before release. Only 250 bottles are released each year.
2010
PiedmontItaly
Marchesi di BaroloBarolo Sarmassa
Château Calon-Ségur, St-Estèphe, 3ème Cru Classé, Bordeaux, France, 2010

Lots of amazing savoury and mineral character keep this wine soaring at 15 years (when tasted). Forest aromas of bay leaf and fir tips complement dried berries, violets and herbs. The palate is an array of cool woodland fruits, turned soil and streaks of pencil lead, which lend complexity, elegance and an ongoing ageability that still offers plenty to come.
2010
BordeauxFrance
Château Calon-SégurSt-Estèphe
Santa Rita, Casa Real Reserva Especial, Alto Jahuel, Maipo Valley, Chile, 2015

With smoky classicism and broody allure, this shows Casa Real in its more traditional guise, with stronger oak influence and deeper extractions. Both are nevertheless well integrated, supporting the wine's beautiful and focused evolution, but also confirming that the wine's stylistic departure since has been a successful decision. A strong core of black cherry and plum, cloaked in coffee beans and black chocolate fills the palate, resting on a bed of tobacco and wet forest floor.
2015
Maipo ValleyChile
Santa RitaAlto Jahuel
Chappellet, Signature Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley, California, USA, 2010

Plenty of sweet oak and ripe fruits mark the nose of this now 15-year-old Napa Cabernet from high on Pritchard Hill and the Chappellet estate. A colder vintage for Napa still saw ample ripeness by the time this wine was harvested in mid-October. Dark plums, frankincense and cinnamon dominate the aromas, while the palate shows flourishes of mountain garrigue that frame round black and red berries. Notes of coffee bean and milk chocolate round out the palate which shows enough acidity to carry on another five to 10 years, owing to the cool, balanced growing season.
2010
CaliforniaUSA
ChappelletNapa Valley
Château Brane-Cantenac, Margaux, 2ème Cru Classé, Bordeaux, France, 2010

When tasted at 15 years, complexity remains. Ample florality brightens the aromas of black fruits, earth and faint hints of wood smoke. The palate shows density of dark fruits, black brambles and polished notes of plum. Sweet spices envelope the finish. A lovely wine from this esteemed estate.
2010
BordeauxFrance
Château Brane-CantenacMargaux
Donnafugata, Mille e una Notte, Sicily, Italy, 2012

A blend of Nero d'Avola, Petit Verdot and Syrah from the Contessa Entellina vineyard in south-west Sicily, with 14 months in new French oak barriques and 36 months in bottle. Tasted in magnum, it reveals concentrated black fruit aromas, laced with leather and spice. Considerable complexity on the harmonious palate, with its deep core of smooth black fruit and fine tannins. Savoury evolution on the long finish – like foraging in mushroomy undergrowth – but this is still so young! Will carry on evolving for many years to come. Decant for an hour before drinking.
2012
SicilyItaly
Donnafugata
Saint Clair, Omaka Reserve Pinot Noir, Marlborough, New Zealand, 2019

Sourced from a single vineyard in the Southern Valleys sub-region of Marlborough, this elegant Pinot is showing lovely evolution after six years. Fruit-driven aromas of raspberry, cherry, strawberries and plums with herbal and savoury tones. From a riper vintage, the palate is plush yet fresh, with appealing fruit expression and a fine framework of tannins. Dark berries and plums mingle with gentle spice, vanilla and savoury touches of olive and espresso.
2019
MarlboroughNew Zealand
Saint Clair
Château Suduiraut, Sauternes, 1er Cru Classé, Bordeaux, France, 2015

Huge power and concentration here balanced by brisk acidity, resulting in a delicious mouthwatering succulence. A lovely yin-yang of tart but sweet aromas led by barley sugar and sharp kumquat marmalade, alongside a perky phenolic edge of bitter grapefruit and more delicate orange blossom. Creamy with a lingering bonfire toffee richness.
2015
BordeauxFrance
Château SuduirautSauternes
Royal Tokaji, Nyulászó 6 Puttonyos Aszú, Tokaj, Hungary, 2016

The 2016 Nyulászó (a volcanic single vineyard with its name meaning 'a good place to catch hares') is far more expressive and welcoming than when I tasted it five years ago – lively and citrusy, with freshly cut orange zest, marmalade, ginger and candied tangerine peel. Limpid acidity provides the spine, hinting at a cooler vintage. The mid-palate is fleshy and honeyed, with ripe yellow fruits and remarkable purity, sprinkled with just a pinch of sweet spice and umami on a moreish finish.
2016
TokajHungary
Royal Tokaji
Cantine Florio, Semisecco SR0417, Marsala, Superiore Riserva, Sicily, Italy, 2017

Made from sweet wine blended with fortified must, cooked must and brandy, the semisecco style is a great way to discover the complexity and wonder of the Marsala category. Around 6,500 bottles were produced of this wine from a single barrel, which spent eight years ageing in a non-temperature controlled cellar close to the sea on the Sicilian coast near Trapani. The 1% cooked must lends the wine an amber colour, a hint of the warming and complex aromas and flavours to come: raisins, coffee, fig, nuts and dried fruits, with a warming vanilla richness. Containing 80g/L of sugar, this could be paired with desserts, or with salumi, Parmesan or blue cheese.
2017
SicilyItaly
Cantine FlorioMarsala

Tina Gellie has worked for Decanter since 2008 and is the brand's Content Editor as well as Regional Editor for the US, Canada, Australia, New Zealand and South Africa. An awarded wine writer and editor, she also won several scholarships on the way to getting her WSET Diploma, and is a freeman of The Worshipful Company of Distillers. She has worked in wine publishing since 2003, including as Deputy Editor and Acting Editor of Wine International. Before her wine career she was a newspaper journalist for broadsheets in London and Australia.