Faustino releases Rioja Chardonnay
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Rioja bodega Faustino is the first large-scale producer to make a white Rioja using Chardonnay in the blend alongside Viura.
Chardonnay, Verdejo and Sauvignon Blanc have been allowed in white Rioja since 2007, although few growers have taken advantage of the ruling, many winemakers regarding the liberalisation of planting regulations a mistake. A tiny percentage of the total hectarage of Rioja is planted to foreign varietals.
Ninety per cent of Rioja’s 270m litre production is red, of which the majority is Tempranillo, with 5% Rosé and 5% white wines, mostly Viura.
Faustino is the largest family-owned company in Rioja, producing some 1m cases. The company planted its first Chardonnay in 1990 for Cava production, and in 2009 it extended its Chardonnay plantings for still Rioja wine to a total of 26 ha.
The 2011 Faustino V Blanco, with 25% Chardonnay, will be launched in London in March.
Javier Pérez of Faustino has said the wine, ‘reveals more aromatic and herbal hints’ than its all-Viura predecessor.
Although this is the first high-profile commercial Rioja Chardonnay, bodegas have experimented with the grape for years.
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The Rodríguez family of Remelluri planted it experimentally in the late 1980s, and Remelluri Blanco has had the variety in its blend since the mid-1990s.
The major producer CVNE also had an experimental plantation in 1993, although they never marketed the finished wine.
The only other Rioja seen in the UK with a Chardonnay element was from Rioja Baja bodega Finca Manzanos.
That wine, barrel-fermented white with 15% Chardonnay and the rest Viura, won a commendation at the 2011 Decanter World Wine Awards.
According to Víctor Fernández de Manzanos, ‘Chardonnay helps us to create a Rioja white with a complete structure, filling all the gaps that Viura or Malvasia are not able to fill.’
Written by John Radford

John Radford, writer, broadcaster and Spanish wine specialist, died on 19 October 2012, aged 65. He was co-chair of Spain for the Decanter World Wine Awards since its inception and a longstanding Decanter contributor. He started out in wine retail at Vintage Wines in Nottingham, and soon discovered that he had a gift as a wine educator and communicator. He spent 13 years as a presenter on BBC local radio, while building his reputation as an expert on the wines of Spain. In 1998 his first book, The New Spain, won the Glenfiddich and Lanson awards. He followed this up with The Wines of Rioja and Cook Espana, Drink Espana (with Mario Sandoval). In 1996 was elected to the Gran Orden de Caballeros de Vino.