Stellenbosch Cabernet tasting lays down a marker
Decanter content director John Stimpfig attended a landmark tasting of Stellenbosch Cabernet vintages from 2000 to 2011 in South Africa. Read his review and see his top wines.
On the eve of Cape Wine 2015, 20 of Stellenbosch’s best known Cabernet producers came together in a collective show of force at Cape Town Waterfront’s plush One & Only hotel to present a historic tasting to a packed audience of South African buyers and press.
Wineries included Vergelegan, Kanonkop, Rustenberg, Delaire Graff, Glenelly and Waterford with a range of vintages from 2000 to 2011. Le Riche’s veteran cellarmaster Etienne le Riche said, ‘This was the best tasting of Stellenbosch Cabernet I have ever experienced.’
The subtext of the tasting was a timely riposte by the Stellenbosch old guard to some of South Africa’s young guns making significant waves in newer regions.
Event moderator, South African Greg Sherwood MW of Handford Wines in London, told Decanter, ‘there’s no doubt that regions like Swartland are doing a great job in promoting its edginess, newness and excitement. But that’s no reason to overlook or forget that Stellenbosch has an incredible story to tell with its great Cabernets. These wines are world-class, have great ageing potential and represent incredible value.’
‘Cabernet is still the yardstick by which all regions are judged, and over the years, Stellenbosch has proven to be the most successful area in South Africa for making great Cabernet,’ added Le Riche who is also a member of the Cape Winemaker’s Guild. ‘I want Stellenbosch to become famous for the variety that does best here. And that variety is Cabernet.’
Johan Malan, who helped organise and coordinate the tasting, also argued that Stellenbosch is South Africa’s best region for Cabernet and has a proven track record of over seventy years. ‘The important thing to remember is that Cabernet chose Stellenbosch. Not the other way around.’
‘This event is really the launch of a campaign to re-establish Stellenbosch’s Cabernet credentials amongst global consu
mers,’ he continued. ‘In the longer term, we’d like to take it around the world to a number of major cities.’
Cabernet Sauvignon is the third most planted variety in South Africa and the most planted in Stellenbosch with a 20% share of the vineyard surface.
Yet there are major challenges for Stellenbosch Cabernet. Jan Boland Coetzee, winemaker at Vriesenhof, commented that some winemakers hadn’t done enough with plant material and leaf roll virus. Vergelegen’s Andre van Rensburg had the same view: ‘we need to sort this out as soon as possible.’
Stellenbosch’s Kingdom of Cabernet
These are my top six wines from a truly spectacular tasting of top Stellenbosch Cabernet at the One & Only Hotel at Cape Town’s Waterfront. These wines can be drunk with food now or cellared for a number of years, depending on the vintage. They also represent almost unbelievable value for the prices asked. Proof positive that Stellenbosch Cabernet at its best is a match made in heaven.
Waterford Estate, Cabernet Sauvignon, Stellenbosch, South Africa, 2009
92
<p>Made from Helderberg fruit by Kevin Arnold and Mark le Roux, this classical 2009 has attractive leafy, herbal aromas with intense cassis berry fruit. On the palate it is rich, structured and refined with juicy acidity, firm tannins and gorgeous layers of tobacco, blackcurrant, cedar and violets. Long finish and plenty of ageing capacity.</p>
2009
Waterford Estate
Kanonkop, Cabernet Sauvignon, Stellenbosch, South Africa, 2005
93
Very deep colour for a ten year old wine and no lack of primary fruit on the powerful nose. This is a forceful, dense and structured Cabernet which is only just entering its prime. Plush tannins, ink, mocha, black fruit, some sous-bois, tea leaf and a mineral edge combine to make this a stand out wine by one of the Cape’s greatest and most classical producers.
2005
Kanonkop
Le Riche Reserve, Cabernet Sauvignon, Stellenbosch, South Africa
93
According to Etienne Le Riche, this is one of his greatest Cabernet Sauvignons, which might explain why it was John Platter’s Red Wine of the Year in 2005. Terrific elegance and definition here, with flavours of grilled meat, cassis, licquorice, graphite and tobacco. Beautifully evolved undergrowth notes and ripe sweet tannins. A blend of Cabernet fruit from Firgrove, and Jonkershoek this was made in classical open top concrete fermenters. Ready now, but plenty of life and pleasure still to come. A corker of a Cabernet.
Le Riche Reserve
Stark-Conde, Cabernet Sauvignon, Stellenbosch, South Africa, 2011
95
Modern, vibrant and vivacious. But also classical and true to its Stellenbosch roots. Great florality (jasmine and violets), polish and presence here with ripe creamy cassis and coffee notes on the palate. The Cabernet fruit is grown on decomposed granite from the Jonkershoek Valley and winemaker Jose Conde’s expert fruit handling means that the silky tannins and violet notes really stand out and sing. This wine is all about elegance, freshness, pleasure and refinement. A genuine class act and a joy to drink now and for the next ten years.
2011
Stark-Conde
