Why scientists are studying sommeliers’ brains
Fresh research has looked at how young sommeliers develop sensory skills as part of ongoing efforts to understand potential links between an acute sense of smell and brain health.
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Twenty-five sommelier students outperformed an untrained ‘control’ group of 29 people at identifying a range of common wine aromas within around two months of education, according to a study recently published in the journal Chemosensory Perception.
The study is part of ongoing efforts to examine the development of sommeliers’ brains as they gain olfactory training, with a view to better understanding brain health.
Context: Links to brain health
Experts already know that the brain’s memory hub, the entorhinal cortex, is first area to be compromised by neurodegenerative diseases such as Alzheimer’s.
In 2016, a study on 13 Master Sommeliers at the Cleveland Clinic Lou Ruvo Center for Brain Health in Las Vegas found that the entorhinal cortex was physically thicker in the wine professionals’ brains versus a control group.
‘We used Master Sommeliers because they are experts in wine, thus in olfaction,’ said neurologist Sarah Banks, PhD.
She and her team assessed structural differences in Master Sommeliers’ brains as well as functional response to motor, visual and olfactory tasks.
Results showed that sommeliers with longer careers exhibited enhanced and healthier tissue in the entorhinal cortex, suggesting that specialised training of sommeliers might result in enhancements in the brain well into adulthood.
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‘This is important, given the regions involved are the first to be impacted by many neurodegenerative diseases,’ said Banks.
Latest study
In continued collaboration with Banks’ 2016 MS study, colleague Johannes Frasnelli, PhD et al, of the University of Quebec, published their 2019 study in Chemosensory Perception.
Frasnelli tested sommeliers at between three and nine weeks into their education. They were asked to identify 16 aromas often found in wine, ranging from anise, apple and clove, to coffee, leather, lemon and rose.
Results backed up the theory that sommelier students make excellent models to study brain health in relation to study-related olfactory performance.
‘We are currently working on an MRI study with sommeliers who have been studying for 18 months,’ said Frasnelli.
‘We would expect to see brain changes over time, as we did in Banks’ study.
‘We know from previous research done in other fields that the brain benefits from active studying and the brain areas processing smell are also responsible for memory, emotion, learning and reward. Olfactory training improves the brain capacity.’
See also:
Master sommelier vs Master of Wine: What’s the difference?

Marisa Finetti is an award-winning writer specializing in wine, food, and travel. Besides Decanter, she has contributed to leading U.S. publications such as Wine Enthusiast, Full Pour, The Tasting Panel, Modern Luxury, among others.
Marisa’s passion for Italian wine shines through her storytelling and creative projects. She is the author and illustrator of Marisa’s Wine Doodles, a whimsical book of narrated illustrations celebrating grapes, wines, pairings, origins, geology, and history. Her most recent work, Tiny Tales of Umbria, is a collaboration with Madrevite Winery, highlighting the rich traditions and stories of Umbria’s wine culture.A dedicated student of wine, Marisa holds an Advanced Level 3 certification from the Wine & Spirits Education Trust (WSET) and is a certified Piedmont Food & Wine Specialist through 3iC. She is also an Italian Wine Scholar through the Wine Scholar Guild, underscoring her deep knowledge and appreciation for Italy's diverse and historic wine regions.