DFWE 2023: PIWOSA Discovery Tasting of wine and music
What does a multi-vintage Chenin Blanc have to do with Pink Floyd, or a Stellenbosch Syrah with Luther Vandross? All was revealed at this Decanter Fine Wine Encounter Discovery Theatre in a tasting hosted by the Premium Independent Winemakers of South Africa (PIWOSA). Tina Gellie reports.
With a name like A night at South Africa’s Wine Opera: jazz, classics and much more… it was no wonder the last Discovery Theatre at London’s 2023 Decanter Fine Wine Encounter drew the crowds.
Not only was the session full, but even after more than six hours of visiting stands in the Grand Tasting and Cellar Collection room, guests lingered after the session to enjoy the last few sips of their eight tasting samples and to queue for a chance to speak to the presenters.
Scroll down for tasting notes and scores of the PIWOSA Discovery Theatre wines
Ken Forrester, owner and winemaker of Ken Forrester Wines, and Tom Hanson-Smith, a director of Journey’s End Vineyards, made an engaging double act in showcasing the diverse wines of PIWOSA – the Premium Independent Wineries of South Africa.
PIWOSA is a diverse yet like-minded group of 12 producers from across the Cape winelands: Avondale (Paarl), De Grendel (Durbanville), Glenelly Estate (Stellenbosch), Jordan Wine Estate (Stellenbosch), Journey’s End Vineyards (Somerset West), Ken Forrester Wines (Stellenbosch), Klein Constantia (Constantia), Paul Clüver Family Wines (Elgin), Raats Family Wines (Stellenbosch), Radford Dale (Stellenbosch), Springfield Estate (Robertson) and The Drift Estate (Overberg).
Many are family-run businesses, others from larger companies; some with more than three centuries of history, several who have been operating for just two decades. But all are united in their aim of making premium wines, sharing them with wine lovers around the world and, in so doing, flying the flag for all South African wine.
And South African wine had something for everyone, no matter what your taste, Ken Forrester told the Discovery Theatre attendees. Just like music, the reason behind his naming this Discovery Theatre A night South Africa’s Wine Opera: jazz, classics and much more…
‘But if you want to play jazz – or rock, pop, anything – you need to learn the classics,’ he explained. ‘It’s only when you have a classical background that you can start being experimental.’
He said the eight wines in this Discovery Theatre (sadly, an hour was not enough time to present a wine from each of the 12 PIWOSA members) was an attempt to take attendees ‘on a journey through South Africa of the regions, grape varieties, incredibly exciting winemaking techniques and quirky, individual winemaker personalities’.
DFWE 2023: PIWOSA wines and music
We have taken the liberty of attributing an artist and music style to each of the eight wines in the tasting along with some classic Ken Forrester quotes. But music preference, as with wine, is all a matter of personal taste, so if our comparison doesn’t resonate with you, do still buy and try the wines for yourself. And if you think there’s a better music match, do let us know at editor@decanter.com
- Klein Constantia, Clara Sauvignon Blanc, Constantia 2022
Maria Callas (Opera): ‘The richness of a fine olive oil with a straight-backed spine of acidity’ - Avondale, Cyclus White, Paarl 2019
Ella Fitzgerald (Jazz): ‘All sorts of notes you’d never thought would go together’ - Ken Forrester, Dirty Little Secret Four, Piekenierskloof MV
Pink Floyd (Prog Rock): ‘Individual, experimental’ - Jordan Wine Estate, Assyrtiko, Stellenbosch 2022
Kraftwerk (Electronica): ‘Pragmatic, pioneering.’ - Paul Clüver, Seven Flags Chardonnay, Elgin 2022
Eroica/Beethoven’s 3rd (Symphony): ‘A symphony of flavour and texture’ - Journey’s End, The Griffin Syrah, Stellenbosch 2018
Luther Vandross (R&B) ‘Smooth’ - The Drift Estate, Ghost in the Machine Shiraz, Western Cape 2021
REM (Alternative Rock) ‘Imaginative’ - Glenelly Estate, Lady May, Stellenbosch 2017
Three Tenors (Opera) ‘Stately, impressive’
Sustainability and social uplift
PIWOSA members are united in their commitment to sustainability. All have removed chemicals in their vineyards, recycle water, embraced cover crops to boost soil heath and are helping protect the Cape’s renowned plant diversity by rewilding. Additionally, five members are World Wildlife Fund Conservation Champions and Journey’s End Vineyards was one of the first wine farms in the country to convert to solar power.
Social uplift, too, is a key pillar of PIWOSA membership – being a force for good and helping local communities. This spans everything from housing and soup kitchens to anti-bullying workshops in schools, gender-based violence rehab clinics and foetal alcohol syndrome crêches. Education, however, is a big emphasis, whether that is creating schools or via bursaries – all the way up to the three-year Cape Winemakers’ Guild Protégé Programme in oenology and viticulture.
DFWE 2023: PIWOSA Discovery Theatre tasting of South Africa’s ‘wine opera’
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Paul Cluver, Seven Flags Chardonnay, Elgin, South Africa, 2022
The top cuvée from Andries Burger (whose 2020 vintage of this wine won Platinum at the 2022 Decanter World Wine Awards) this is a classic, cool-climate Chardonnay that should impress even the staunchest of white Burgundy fans. From vines planted in 1987, the oldest in Elgin, at about 300m, the fruit was whole-bunch pressed then wild-yeast fermented and aged in barrel (10% new) for nine months. Nutty wet wool aromas join lime zest and peach skin, then broad, rich butterscotch and lemon curd flavours coat the mouth, enlivened by mouthwatering acidity. Long and layered.
2022
Paul Cluver
Ken Forrester, Dirty Little Secret Four, Piekenierskloof, Citrusdal Mountain, South Africa
The fourth iteration of this multi-vintage blend, now comprising five vintages: 2017 to 2021. Fruit is sourced from a 1965-planted bushvine vineyard at 650m on deep sandy soil, and while not yet made in a solera, as with Sherry, Ken Forrester says it will be. Currently it is made like Champagne, where the youngest vintage is the base wine (wild yeast fermented and aged in old barrels, undergoing malolactic fermentation for added richness and texture), bolstered by older reserve wines. Grapefruit pith, spiced quince, pear and apple compote and figs in dark honey.
Ken Forrester
Klein Constantia, Clara Sauvignon Blanc, Constantia, South Africa, 2022
Pieced together like a puzzle, this sleek Sauvignon is from six single-vineyard sites between 260m and 300m altitude on the Constantia farm. Kept separate for their unique characteristics, fermentation took place in neutral 500L barrels, of which only the best were selected for the final blend. Maturation in 50% new oak adds gunflint smoke to white blossoms, linen and lime aromas. Thrumming with citrus intensity, the racy acidity is keenly balanced by a textural palate of white peach and tangy nectarine, as that streak of citrus pierces through to the finish.
2022
Klein Constantia
Avondale, Cyclus White, Paarl, South Africa, 2019
An exciting, modern blend of mainly Roussanne and Viognier supported by Chenin Blanc, Semillon and Chardonnay, named Cyclus to represent the life energy swirling through Avondale's biodynamic vineyards. Real power, dynamism, texture and weight allied with vibrant minerality to lift the apricot, jasmine and red apple flavours. Three quarters of the grapes were fermented as whole bunches in 500-litre barrels with the remainder in amphora and qvevri, then left on lees with stirring for 12 months. Complex, nutty and balanced.
2019
Avondale
Jordan Wine Estate, Assyrtiko, Stellenbosch, South Africa, 2022
<p>Gary and Kathy Jordan planted South Africa's first mother block of Assyrtiko in 2019, a pioneering, forward-thinking move to given this Greek grape's resistance to heat and drought, and sure to be a future flagship for sustainable winemaking amid climate change. From just three-year-old vines, this shows admirable concentration and structure on the round palate, with all the hallmarks of the variety: ripe peach and pear, crunchy sea herbs, stony minerals and a firm bite of green apple acidity.</p>
2022
Jordan Wine Estate
Glenelly, Lady May, Stellenbosch, South Africa, 2017
The 2017 Lady May is one of the best vintages produced here. The blend recalls the 2009 in proportion with a strong foundation of 90% Cabernet Sauvignon, with which the Glenelly farm excels. To this is added 6% Cabernet Franc and 4% Petit Verdot. The fruit profile is ample, deep and layered with blackberry and cassis, touches of liquorice, toast and a whisper of tar, finishing long with concentration and intent, plus ripe, velvet tannins. An outstanding vintage for Lady May, with major ageing potential, this is only now starting to open up and drink well. It spent the usual 24 months in oak.
2017
Glenelly
Journey’s End, The Griffin Syrah, Stellenbosch, South Africa, 2018
Made since the 2015 vintage, this is a rich, dense, old-school Syrah, with lashings of new oak polish and fine tannins to support super ripe fruit. Most of the grapes undergo whole-bunch carbonic maceration (like in Beaujolais), then the free-run juice goes to barrel – 60% new American oak and 40% second-fill, both French and American – where it ages 18 months. Charry bonfire notes, toasted coconut, spiced caramel pecans and black pepper meld with damsons, earthy forest fruit and herbal flecks.
2018
Journey’s End
The Drift, Ghost in the Machine Shiraz, Western Cape, South Africa, 2021
Part of the Bruck Jack Wines portfolio, Ghost in the Machine is label made at The Drift Estate which sit at 500m on the Overberg Highlands. From low-yielding estate and Breedekloof grapes, both the Shiraz and 12% Grenache are fermented carbonically (as with Beaujolais), basket pressed to French oak barrels then age 17 months. Loads of exotic spices, cracked black pepper and fresh herbs join ripe purple berries and sweet, creamy oak. Smooth tannins and balancing acidity give structure.
2021
The Drift
