How does Italy age? John Stimpfig’s top wines

A blend of Sangiovese (70%) with equal parts of Merlot and Sagrantino, this stunning 1998 is still going very strong indeed. A stand out wine from the tasting, this is drinking beautifully now and according to Marco Caprai will easily reward another five years cellaring. Nearly two decades on, lush, primary red and black fruits dominate on the palate, while hints of undergrowth and bottle age are only just beginning to emerge. The tannins are poised, ripe and well structured, but have clearly softened and polymerised. Lovely acidity and a terrific finish make for a very complete and complex wine.

An utterly unique wine from four hectares of ungrafted pre-phylloxera vines which are trellised on traditional pergola systems, this was another astonishing wine displaying sagacity, complexity and an age-defying youthfulness. Aglianico often has a reputation for rusticity, but these ripe and molten tannins from prime volcanic soils were exquisitely full, polished and refined. The fruit still retained stunning sour cherry intensity, with a touch of balsam, coffee and cocoa on the powerful finish. Serpico is not made every year by Feudi di San Gregorio, but when it is, it shines a beacon of elegance and complexity. Utterly compelling wine.

For many producers, 2002 was a difficult vintage in Tuscany especially for the late-ripening Sangiovese. However, for those who picked before the rains, it has produced exceptional and surprising results, which was the case for the 15% Sangiovese in this sumptuous red blend. And there were no problems for Merlot in 2002, which made up the rest of the wine - especially when it was planted on its preferred clay soils. The Merlot from the Giramonte estate vineyard 100km south of Siena attained terrific, depth ripeness and structure giving this wine a rich blackberry and plum fruit profile with sweet tobacco, coffee and cinnamon. No wonder Lamberto Frescobaldi picked it as a personal favourite. Sublime now, but will continue to improve and age for another six or seven years at least.

The name of Sicily’s only DOCG comes from the word ‘cerasa’ in the Sicilian dialect, meaning cherry. By law, the wine must be a blend of two of the island’s indigenous grape varieties – Nero d’Avola and Frappato. Here the ratio is 60:40 with Nero d’Avola giving structure and darker fruits, while the 40% Frappato provides intense red fruit aromas, flavours and freshness. Once picked, the grapes receive eight days maceration and are vinified in stainless steel to lock in the natural acidity. Even after nearly a decade in bottle, this has a stunning nose of strawberries and red cherries. The palate is distinctively fresh and juicy with sour cherries and wild strawberries. It has lovely sweetness a hint of savouriness with light and easy tannins.